If it matters...and if I may? IMO:
#14 of 15: Tighten each hub bolt a little at a time in a X pattern. At the very least, don't start/snug them up sequentially.
Also, the springs can easily slip off their intended seats. They may 'snap' into place on activation, they may not. If they don't, the clutch won't work. Heck..the outside cover may not even fit.
#15 of 15: The throwout bearing/shaft assy. does not require that 'washer'. It is a shim designed to properly position the clutch arm. If you have replaced plates, it should be checked. The arm the cable attaches to should move
through a 90º angle...there should be an equal amount of arc on either side of that 90º position. That is the position in which you will get the most amount of clutch pack separation when you pull the clutch lever. More shim (or installation of A shim) will start the disengagement of the plates earlier, less shim..later. New 'fat' plates may call for the removal of that shim to properly position the arm.
Keep the shim handy. As the plates wear you may need to put it back in to maintain proper alignment.
#2&3 of 15: Obvious enough if you're following the pics and you know what's going to happen next...but,
DO realize that while #2&3 do a nice job of showing how the second washer fits and where, subsequent pics show the basket back OFF..and what may be taken as a reference to a
third washer used in the basket/hub put-together.
There are only
two. Both of the same size btw...you don't need to worry that the two be placed in certain positions. Just make sure they are both
THERE. Well...if you want your clutch to work.
While in any case it's going to take some jostling around to get both types of plates lined up, consider putting the steels on the hub (friction plate tabs lined up, but not in the basket yet), then place the basket either
over the lying flat hub (washer held in place with some grease) or place the hub
into the basket. This approach gives you access to the friction plate tabs to help them 'fit'. Doing it basket first, you have
no access to the steel plates (not with merely your fingers anyway) and it is quite easy while moving the hub around trying to blindly 'find' the steels to get them so out of whack you need to start over.
In the end, it's all a matter of choice..what works best for you. In ANY case, expect to have to give it more'n one try the first time you do it.
ALWAYS presoak new friction plates according to manufacturer's directions. If there are no directions, soak them overnight in the same oil you will be running in the transmission. A clean and dry gallon milk jug, cut to a few inches in height works well as a container.
oops. NOW I read the 'knowledge/experience' part required to mouth off about the whole project.
Call it a free $.02....
Very nice set of pics and info, Mr. Jeb! Thanks for sharing!!
