Single or 2 stage with gold valves?
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Single or 2 stage with gold valves?
I have a 2001 220 and am going to install .40 springs and gold valves. The instructions say to try single stage first but I ride mostly rocks and roots so I would think 2 stage would be the way to go. Of course race tech is closed today and I would like to get this done and ride. Any help from some one that has experience with these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
- Colorado Mike
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I have a two stage GV setup on my KX forks. The literature that came with mine indicates that single stage setups are for Free-style or very aggressive MX riders, so I'm surprised they are telling you to go that route. Must be different for the conventional forks.
Mike
Life's tough, it's even tougher if you're stupid.
'04 KDX220
Life's tough, it's even tougher if you're stupid.
'04 KDX220
- kawagumby
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The race tech literature printed back in 01 calls for the two-stage for the kdx stock forks. I installed the two-stage in my previous KDX 220, and they worked well. ( I can't imagine an advantage a single stage stack would provide for the stock forks)
1994 KDX200, Beta 200rr, yz125, yz250, kx100 modded for adult, gasgas contact 250.
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- canyncarvr
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Ask ski.
His gold valves worked excellently on both his green bikes. Now...I recall an MX-Tech guy tweaked them, so he may not know if they were single or double..
Depending on your spring setup, it may be of use to use a tie-down to cinch the forks together a bit. That will keep the cartridge from moving when you pneumo-zap the valves out.
The whole presto-chango will take you maybe ten minutes!
FWIW..Everything I do takes 'maybe ten minutes!'. My sense of time required for a 'thing' isn't always spot on, yanno?
His gold valves worked excellently on both his green bikes. Now...I recall an MX-Tech guy tweaked them, so he may not know if they were single or double..
Yep! ....but taking them out is only a couple minute process. Lay the bike on its side, at least to the point of having the forks elevated, then you can remove the basevalves, make the changes that need to be done...put 'em back in.A little patience now might keep me from having to take them apart again.
Depending on your spring setup, it may be of use to use a tie-down to cinch the forks together a bit. That will keep the cartridge from moving when you pneumo-zap the valves out.
The whole presto-chango will take you maybe ten minutes!
FWIW..Everything I do takes 'maybe ten minutes!'. My sense of time required for a 'thing' isn't always spot on, yanno?
Consider the source
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