KDXRIDER.NET

Hmm....

You're right. I don't care what the others say.

Just 'cuz a thing is unanimous don't make it right!

Well...that's my story...

Did you happen to bleed the air out of the forks while they were compressed?


CC wrote "Just 'cuz a thing is unanimous don't make it right!" Boy if that isn't the truth!!

Yeah...did'ja? You kind'a didn't answer that part..............

Memmer the 'loosen screw, pssst out?, pssst in? part?

'Ya gotta be pacific (sic..just for Inda)!!

Yep....Did that. Sic, Thats funny!

But...what happened? Air in or out? No air nowhere? No difference in fork action with internal pressure equalized?

If this was already covered, my apologies for missing it.

Air out of both when compressed. "Mechanic" has them right now, going through them.....

No..not when compressed.

whatizname wrote:Loosen the bleed screw. What happens? Air in? Out? Does the fork act any different afterward?

I wanted to know what happened when you loosened the screws as the forks were just SITTING there....was there positive or negative pressure? Did the forks blow or did (do?) they suck?


If Mr. Mechanic checks out this thread, he's not going to like the ""...

Might as well be nice until you know for some otherwise to BE otherwise.

Leave (edit) the offhanded snottiness to the experts.

Like ME!

Well..expert (otherwise known as: has been...drip under pressure) AND a long ways away!

Sorry. I did check them just sitting there, and both of them let out a little air. Didnt affect the way the bike felt. Gotta start somewhere on the snottiness!

Some pressure build-up is common. My OEM forks did it all the time. I found bleeders to be one'a the best things ever for keeping the OEM forks working well (as they could).

If there was a BIG suck of air..that would give you too much sag..AND hurt the overall compliance of the forks. That was why I asked about it...it could have been what the problem was all along.

But...no...

yea check if the cap unscrewed from the rod that happened to me in the race it was horrible it trashed all the threads in the cap take apart asap.

How does that happen with the jam nut...uh...jammed?

I dont know but possibly from the shock of bottoming out every 10 seconds that was when my forks were incredibly soft, the spring rate was like .297 kg

luke347 wrote:yea check if the cap unscrewed from the rod that happened to me in the race it was horrible it trashed all the threads in the cap take apart asap.

Jam nut or no jam nut I think it would take a complete lack of spring preload and some sort of twisting force on the rebound rod to allow it to come free. Don't comprehend how it could happen...... I have to think about this!

FWIW after 30 seconds of thought: Don't see how the hydraulic pressures within the fork - whether of the rod damper or the cartridge variety - would cause a twisting torque to be applied.

Stock OEM high preload springs with the reported spring wind-up due to screwing on the cap; instead of screw the upper fork tube onto the cap - possibility?? Maybe hummmmm...

canyncarvr wrote:How does that happen with the jam nut...uh...jammed?

sum Times el jam Nut does not get enough jam. not to sweet when it happens.

Well, im gonna bounce a little. Earlier in the thread, I mentioned that i ordered all new stuff for the swingarm. Parts are in. One question not covered in the book. How far does the swingarm bearings go in? Seems to me, they would be centered, with a cap/spacer on each side. Both of my bearings were offset a little in the swingarm. But, they were pretty wore out, and so were the caps. Logic tells me to press them to the center of the swingarm, but the book doesnt. Tips?????? Thanks.

I've replaced my bearings..and the replacements were a SINGLE bearing...not two. That said, my remembrance may not be correct.

Don't 'center' them in the swingarm. Well...if that means pushing them TO the center.

Leave as much space between the bearings that you can. 'Centered' in that case could also apply..meaning not IN the center, but EVENLY split, space-wise.

The farther apart the bearings are, the better the load on them will be distributed. Push them in only far enough to give you room for the associated hardware.

Keep in mind that the seal sitting against the bearing is how the bearing is going to be the most protected. Yeah...not a lot in any case, but the better placement, the ..well...better!

ALL of this assumes your 'parts are in' means the OEM type parts...NOT the caged 'double-wide' replacements from, say, PivotWorks. IF the 'double-wide' caged bearing is used..then 'centered' it is!


OkeyDokey?

I thought the book does tell you how far to press the bearings. But, maybe I'm remembering the kid's KX manual. in any case, CC is right , you press them in about 4mm to allow room for the seal, and leaving a space between the bearings.

It is one bearing for each hole, then a cap on both sides.

That's not OEM..that's aftermarket. Well..unless OEM changed...and I duobt that.

I don't recall how much 'play' there is in placement..seems there isn't much. I'm saying I don't think you can place that one bearing 10mm from one side and 4mm from the other.

So...center it!