Brake parts?

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BlackStormy
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Brake parts?

Post by BlackStormy »

The front brakes on my '95 are not working at all. I want to rebuild the master cylinder and put new pads on it. Is there someplace online to get these parts? I can get the pads at monkeybutt, but not the rebuild kit. Also, should I rebuild the caliper while I am at it?
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scheckaet
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Post by scheckaet »

You can get brake pads at rockymountain, I think they have Tusk for 14 $.
What do you mean by not working? muschy?
You can probably get the parts from Ron ayers or bike bandit for cheaper than getting a "rebuild kit" (I'm actually considering replacing my pistons and seals)
Tell us a bit more about your brakes, maybe someone can help around here
BlackStormy
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Post by BlackStormy »

They are beyond mushy I think. I can pull the lever to the bar and the pistons don't move, as far as I can tell. There is never enough pressure on them to slow down the front tire even slightly. I am going to try to bleed them before I do anything.
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scheckaet
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Post by scheckaet »

Flush, and bleed again. If it still is mouschy, I would remove the caliper and clean it inside out, check the seals and the pistons. Watch out the pistons can sure fly when they pop out!
Here is some good info on bleeding procedures
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4379
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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

Long before I'd consider rebuilding any hydraulic 'thing', a good (meaning correct and therefore useful) bleed is in order.

I didn't check to see if scheck3's link included getting a pressure bleeder, but if it doesn't it should.

Bad pins can keep pads from working properly. Not likely to keep them from working at ALL...but working poorly for sure.

Good luck!

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BlackStormy
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Post by BlackStormy »

I stopped and bought some brake fluid and a mityvac and gave them a good bleed. Everything seems to be in good working order now. Thank for the help and for saving me some money.
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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

A btw for the pressure bleed idea..

The bleeders will almost always (I would just say always, 'cuz mine always have..several different machines) leak through the threads. Same applies to pressure or vacuum ops. I've taken to a first step of removing the bleeder and wrapping it with teflon tape before I even start a bleeding process.

Oh...and the tubing that comes with the MityVac (brand name of mine I believe..yours may vary) is a waste of time. One, it was not the correct size for metric bleeders..and it didn't seem to like brake fluid, either!

Gee! Who'da thunk there would be brake fluid resistant line included with a brake bleeder!! :shock:

Based on a rec from IC (thanks...again) I picked up some different hose. Now...that is a REAL specific determining factor....different..but I don't remember what it's called. Mine is opaque, not at all rubber, yellow-green snot color. Tough stuff! Doesn't slip real easily on the bleeder, but once it's on...it stays!

Got a couple different diameters and some T's to adapt the MityVac cap nozzles to the smaller line suitable for the bleeder fit.

Point is...don't waste time sucking air anywhere whether due to poorly fitting tubing or leaky threads. If you're setup correctly, an applied vacuum to the bleeder rez will STAY at the applied level when you loosen the bleeder. The incoming liquid displaces the ...uh...displaced air. You don't have to keep pumping the thing up.

Keep an eye on the MC when you're doing a vacuum bleed from the slave. Drop the fluid level one teeny bit one time below the intake hole...and you have to start all over.

Using a pressure bleed method from the slave to the MC often works better for pesky stuck bubbles.

Glad it worked out for you.

Change hydraulic fluid often..annually! The benefit over time to every component in the system will be a benefit to you!

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