Brake parts?
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- Supporting Member II
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Brake parts?
The front brakes on my '95 are not working at all. I want to rebuild the master cylinder and put new pads on it. Is there someplace online to get these parts? I can get the pads at monkeybutt, but not the rebuild kit. Also, should I rebuild the caliper while I am at it?
- scheckaet
- KDXRider.net
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You can get brake pads at rockymountain, I think they have Tusk for 14 $.
What do you mean by not working? muschy?
You can probably get the parts from Ron ayers or bike bandit for cheaper than getting a "rebuild kit" (I'm actually considering replacing my pistons and seals)
Tell us a bit more about your brakes, maybe someone can help around here
What do you mean by not working? muschy?
You can probably get the parts from Ron ayers or bike bandit for cheaper than getting a "rebuild kit" (I'm actually considering replacing my pistons and seals)
Tell us a bit more about your brakes, maybe someone can help around here
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Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
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- scheckaet
- KDXRider.net
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Flush, and bleed again. If it still is mouschy, I would remove the caliper and clean it inside out, check the seals and the pistons. Watch out the pistons can sure fly when they pop out!
Here is some good info on bleeding procedures
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4379
Here is some good info on bleeding procedures
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4379
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
- canyncarvr
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Long before I'd consider rebuilding any hydraulic 'thing', a good (meaning correct and therefore useful) bleed is in order.
I didn't check to see if scheck3's link included getting a pressure bleeder, but if it doesn't it should.
Bad pins can keep pads from working properly. Not likely to keep them from working at ALL...but working poorly for sure.
Good luck!
I didn't check to see if scheck3's link included getting a pressure bleeder, but if it doesn't it should.
Bad pins can keep pads from working properly. Not likely to keep them from working at ALL...but working poorly for sure.
Good luck!
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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- canyncarvr
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A btw for the pressure bleed idea..
The bleeders will almost always (I would just say always, 'cuz mine always have..several different machines) leak through the threads. Same applies to pressure or vacuum ops. I've taken to a first step of removing the bleeder and wrapping it with teflon tape before I even start a bleeding process.
Oh...and the tubing that comes with the MityVac (brand name of mine I believe..yours may vary) is a waste of time. One, it was not the correct size for metric bleeders..and it didn't seem to like brake fluid, either!
Gee! Who'da thunk there would be brake fluid resistant line included with a brake bleeder!!
Based on a rec from IC (thanks...again) I picked up some different hose. Now...that is a REAL specific determining factor....different..but I don't remember what it's called. Mine is opaque, not at all rubber, yellow-green snot color. Tough stuff! Doesn't slip real easily on the bleeder, but once it's on...it stays!
Got a couple different diameters and some T's to adapt the MityVac cap nozzles to the smaller line suitable for the bleeder fit.
Point is...don't waste time sucking air anywhere whether due to poorly fitting tubing or leaky threads. If you're setup correctly, an applied vacuum to the bleeder rez will STAY at the applied level when you loosen the bleeder. The incoming liquid displaces the ...uh...displaced air. You don't have to keep pumping the thing up.
Keep an eye on the MC when you're doing a vacuum bleed from the slave. Drop the fluid level one teeny bit one time below the intake hole...and you have to start all over.
Using a pressure bleed method from the slave to the MC often works better for pesky stuck bubbles.
Glad it worked out for you.
Change hydraulic fluid often..annually! The benefit over time to every component in the system will be a benefit to you!
The bleeders will almost always (I would just say always, 'cuz mine always have..several different machines) leak through the threads. Same applies to pressure or vacuum ops. I've taken to a first step of removing the bleeder and wrapping it with teflon tape before I even start a bleeding process.
Oh...and the tubing that comes with the MityVac (brand name of mine I believe..yours may vary) is a waste of time. One, it was not the correct size for metric bleeders..and it didn't seem to like brake fluid, either!
Gee! Who'da thunk there would be brake fluid resistant line included with a brake bleeder!!
Based on a rec from IC (thanks...again) I picked up some different hose. Now...that is a REAL specific determining factor....different..but I don't remember what it's called. Mine is opaque, not at all rubber, yellow-green snot color. Tough stuff! Doesn't slip real easily on the bleeder, but once it's on...it stays!
Got a couple different diameters and some T's to adapt the MityVac cap nozzles to the smaller line suitable for the bleeder fit.
Point is...don't waste time sucking air anywhere whether due to poorly fitting tubing or leaky threads. If you're setup correctly, an applied vacuum to the bleeder rez will STAY at the applied level when you loosen the bleeder. The incoming liquid displaces the ...uh...displaced air. You don't have to keep pumping the thing up.
Keep an eye on the MC when you're doing a vacuum bleed from the slave. Drop the fluid level one teeny bit one time below the intake hole...and you have to start all over.
Using a pressure bleed method from the slave to the MC often works better for pesky stuck bubbles.
Glad it worked out for you.
Change hydraulic fluid often..annually! The benefit over time to every component in the system will be a benefit to you!
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
bike profile: !clicky!