KDXRIDER.NET

I will add it to my calendar and see what happens as the date approaches. Have you ridden there before? Where do you stage from?

What size tire does the 250f take in the rear?

strider80 wrote: 1. Have you ridden there before?

2. Where do you stage from?

3. What size tire does the 250f take in the rear?

1. Yes sir, once each of the last three summers.

2. First summer we camped at a place called 'Old Chimney' by Cat Creek (You get there going through the Randle route....which is what you would take coming from the North Pole). The other two times, we came up from underneath by Cougar Reservoir (on all the maps) and staged at little trail heads off the main road.

3. I have a 110/100 Maxxis Desert IT on there as of last night; a 4.0 Michelin X-11 tube-type trials since Thanksgiving; 100/100 and 110/100 Kenda Millvilles for most of the 3 years I've owned it...even put a 120/100 Milville on a couple winters ago to see if it would help me in the soupy ruts. Only thing I noticed different was it kept the inside surface of the SA clean.

Rim locks in, tires on, time to try out.

strider80 wrote:Rim locks in, tires on, time to try out.

Good news. Remember, the more psi, the less performance you'll get. If I'm riding fairly technical ST, I keep it at 8psi. If it looks like we're going quad-width trails and therefore, higher speeds, I boost it to 9.5 psi, but that's it.

I've pounded the rim a few times and no flats yet...in fact, the 4 rear flats I've had in the last 4 years have all been with desert tires on the bike. Go figure.

8psi sounds like a good starting point, thanks!

Hey Scott,
Mark here, don't sweat the rim lock deal. If my 450x doesn't spin the tire on the rim your bike won't!! The D803 is a very good tire. the sidewalls are a little bit firmer than the X-11 so you can almost ride on it if you have to. I run about 11-12 psi with my fat a$$ so I won't get flats. Much less than that and the tire feels like it's going flat. Welcome to the world of Velcro, you WILL like it. We need to go riding some time soon. Are your finals done now? Later, Mark K.

Thanks Mark, finals done now. I am excited to try out the "velcro."

The D803 worked great at Taneum this weekend. I would never had thought that I could stop and start easily on steep trail sections. The tire loaded up in some mud sections, as would be expected, but cleared okay. I am sold on it, very confidence inspiring, no more going around roots and rocks, I think I was actually going out of my way to find stuff to ride over.

It was a little skaty in silty sections, not bad, the pros definitely outweigh the cons.

I ran 8psi, two rim locks and a heavy duty tube, no flats over some very rocky sections.

The trials tire cannot be denied!

How does the first weekend of August look for some Gifford Pinchot riding?

Looks okay right now, I added it to the calendar. I saw in your other thread you were talking about needing to be street legal, is that the case for this ride?

Running the Dunlop 803 trials tire I've switched to a normal weight tube.

Tore two valve stems using the Ultra heavy duty tubes. The side wall height is higher on the Dunlop than the Mitas (1/2 inch) and I think this contributes to the tube floating within the tire more than an regular tire or regular sized trial tire. Mitas trial tire did not shift the tube even when run on a 380.

BTW - I use 2 rim locks.

Skaty on silty sections and skaty on hard pack with covered with loose dry dirt - Will slip into deep V-notch ruts with ease - Loose shale rock a knobby does better on - MOST other terrians the trials tire will rule for trail riding IMO.

strider80 wrote:Looks okay right now, I added it to the calendar. I saw in your other thread you were talking about needing to be street legal, is that the case for this ride?

Technically...yes. However, I only ride the roads to connect the trails, and if it's a one-day trip, we can keep the road-riding to just two out-of-the-way roads. In the past, we have shuttled a truck to one spot to haul bikes back instead of riding the roads. We did that once. PIThiney.

That said, I have a plate for my WR, but I do not have all the equipment to complete the deal. So I mount the plate, but I'm not street-legal. The plate is supposed to be a goodwill gesture on my part to work with regulations, while hoping an officer of the law will see the plate and my demeanor (safe, respectful, responsible) and ignore the missing mirror, turn signals, and brake light. GPNF is the only place I ride where the gravel roads are off-limits.

It's a risk, but I'm going! I just wanted everyone to be aware of the situation before they arrived at the parking area.

I bought a stock sized tube, maybe a tube for a wider tire would fit better. I did notice the valve stem sits a little low.

My gearing does feel a bit high now, maybe need to go back to 13/50 or 49 next time. I really need to buck up for another rear wheel, so I can have a trials tire and a Desert IT ready to go at all times.

IdahoCharley wrote: Tore two valve stems using the Ultra heavy duty tubes. The side wall height is higher on the Dunlop than the Mitas (1/2 inch) and I think this contributes to the tube floating within the tire more than an regular tire or regular sized trial tire. Mitas trial tire did not shift the tube even when run on a 380.

I had heard the slipping of the ultra tubes had to do with the increased rotating mass...but I do notice my tube slips too (even in a knobby).

Well, after washing my bike today, I noticed my valve stem cocked over pretty good. So either I spun the tire or the tube floated in the tire. So what do I do?

More pressure?

110mm wide tube (100/100 in there now)

regular or heavy duty tube instead of the ultra heavy duty I have in there?

Tighten down the rim locks more?

You can check to see if your tire is spinning by straightening it all out and then marking the tire and the rim at a location of your choosing. I really doubt your tire is spinning though. I'll bet it's the tube rotating inside.

I straighten the tube out every 200 miles or so. I usually run about 50 mile loops in the mountains so it's about once a month that I have had to do it. I also back the valve stem nut up against the valve stem cap.

You can play with pressure but I declare that your best traction will be in the 8 to 9.5 psi range. Even then, I think you'll still see the tube drifting.

You get to decide which tube to use, I stick with the ultratubes all year.

Straighten it and ride. It will all work fine...but it is a good idea to monitor it (just like you would air pressure or oil level under normal circumstances).

Sounds good, what size tube do you run?

100/100