Bike is Louder
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Bike is Louder
My 2001 KDX 220 has become louder. I have noticed it the last few rides, and don't like it. Any ideas why this has happened? It sounds more like a 250 then my KDX. I would prefer to keep it as quiet as I can.
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- Indawoods
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repack that silencer!
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- 2001kdx
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- Mr. Wibbens
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Or you might want to try a stock s/a
Carvr's bike sounds so SWEET since he put the stock can back on.
I wish I could find one for my '92
Carvr's bike sounds so SWEET since he put the stock can back on.
I wish I could find one for my '92
Warning! This member tends to use sarcasm as a regular form of communication. If a post seems offensive, before you panic and fly off the handle, re-read the post and imagine it being said with a sideways grin.
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FIVE OUT OF FOUR PEOPLE DONUT UNDERSTAND FRACTIONS
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FIVE OUT OF FOUR PEOPLE DONUT UNDERSTAND FRACTIONS
- canyncarvr
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A couple pointers for the 'aint' never done that afore'
The 'remove' part is the allen head screws on the entry end. Leave the EXIT end alone!
Holding the S/A in a vise by the cannister bolt flange, pull the core out. It should have been assembled with RTV, to it may be quite snug. A tap or two with a rubber mallet may help break the joint.
Slide it out. Remove the exising mess from the core.
Clean the core with a wire brush. All the holes should be clear.
Re-wrap with your new packing...your new 2-stroke packing. Don't use 4-stroke packing (sez me..it's loud..it doesn't work as well as the 2-stroke stuff). Don't use building insulation because your buddy said it works. It doesn't.
The length of the new packing is not going to fit. You need to cut it (use scissors). You can use the short piece removed as the first layer. Turn it to fit the length of the core plus about an inch, hold it ON the core with masking tape.
Take the remaining cut to length piece (said length a bit longer than the core pipe by about an inch.. fits into the space at the 'end' of the cannister when you put it together) wrap the core, hold it with masking tape.
When you're done, you should have a core that is bigger than the cannister by 'some'. You want the packing to take up ALL the space inside.
Clean both the mating surfaces. Insert the core into the cannister, using caution to properly mate the core end with the arrester (still in the cannister). Don't FORCE it. Likely it won't slip in right off the bat, but neither does it require banging, yanking, cussing, or hydraulic force!
JUST before the flanges meet, put a nice layer of RTV (black, hi temp silicon) on the input side flange. Slide 'em together, put the screws back in with blue Loctite.
Not only will it be quieter (considering you packed it tightly enough), it will also RUN better!!!
Cheers!
The 'remove' part is the allen head screws on the entry end. Leave the EXIT end alone!
Holding the S/A in a vise by the cannister bolt flange, pull the core out. It should have been assembled with RTV, to it may be quite snug. A tap or two with a rubber mallet may help break the joint.
Slide it out. Remove the exising mess from the core.
Clean the core with a wire brush. All the holes should be clear.
Re-wrap with your new packing...your new 2-stroke packing. Don't use 4-stroke packing (sez me..it's loud..it doesn't work as well as the 2-stroke stuff). Don't use building insulation because your buddy said it works. It doesn't.
The length of the new packing is not going to fit. You need to cut it (use scissors). You can use the short piece removed as the first layer. Turn it to fit the length of the core plus about an inch, hold it ON the core with masking tape.
Take the remaining cut to length piece (said length a bit longer than the core pipe by about an inch.. fits into the space at the 'end' of the cannister when you put it together) wrap the core, hold it with masking tape.
When you're done, you should have a core that is bigger than the cannister by 'some'. You want the packing to take up ALL the space inside.
Clean both the mating surfaces. Insert the core into the cannister, using caution to properly mate the core end with the arrester (still in the cannister). Don't FORCE it. Likely it won't slip in right off the bat, but neither does it require banging, yanking, cussing, or hydraulic force!
JUST before the flanges meet, put a nice layer of RTV (black, hi temp silicon) on the input side flange. Slide 'em together, put the screws back in with blue Loctite.
Not only will it be quieter (considering you packed it tightly enough), it will also RUN better!!!
Cheers!
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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Well I was able to change the packing in the silencer. I removed the canister by first removing all of the allen head screws, then leaving the lower pipe attachment bolt on, and removing the one on the silencer I was able to use a piece of wood to tap on the mounting tab on the silencer to remove the canister. I basically used my bike as a vice since I do not have one, it worked pretty well. Anyhow, after removing the canister I was able to pull out the packing, and it was pretty black and crusty on the layers nearest the stinger (I suppose that is why my bike has been smoking more also) , but none of the stinger holes were plugged or anything like that. Once I got the packing out I looked down inside the canister to see more packing wrapped around the spark arrester. It looks like the only way to change this packing would be to drill th e rivets out of the end cap and remove it. Is this neccessary and should it be done on a regular basis? My thought is that if it was supposed to be changed regularly then they would have used allen head screws instead of rivets to secure the end cap. Anyhow, I did not change it.
One more thing, when I wrapped the packing around the stinger and secured it with some electrical tape, when I put the canister over it the fit was not tight at all. I needed more packing but did not have any. How big of an effect will this have? And should I repack the thing again making sure the fit is tight?
One more thing, when I wrapped the packing around the stinger and secured it with some electrical tape, when I put the canister over it the fit was not tight at all. I needed more packing but did not have any. How big of an effect will this have? And should I repack the thing again making sure the fit is tight?
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