KDXRIDER.NET

I picked up my KDX used about a week ago, The headlight wires were just dangling near the tank along with the wires that went to the stock switch. The headlight itself had no bulb in it either.

I picked up a new UFO "sahara" headlight the other day, looks real similar to the stock light. I also just received my factory headlight switch today. I'll wire up the switch as well as the headlight and try it. However, how can I test/measure the power getting to the headlight? I have a multi meter, just wondering what numbers I should be seeing at the the headlight leads, say, at idle.

Thanks

Keep in mind that a lot of aftermarket headlight assemblies assume a lot more wattage out of the system than the KDX produces. Meaning, if they put a 40 watt bulb in there, or 2-35's, you're going to be disappointed.
I think the stock bulb is 30w. The stock bulb was 2 elements, but only 1 is really hooked up. On my '04 220, there is a red and black going to the headlight socket, and red and yellow wires going up to the HL sw.

As for boltages, I dunno. never measured that.

let us know what you find, and where you ride.

Oh, and welcome!

12 or 13 bolts or so would work

Well, I hooked up the switch, started the bike, and put my boltmeter on the headlight leads. Got nothing, no boltage at all.

I know there is a lighting coil behind the side case, is there a boltage regulator somewhere as well? what else can I check?

thanks

I think the boltage wreckulator is under the seat. As I recall the shop manual has an electrical schematic.

Keep in mind that the boltage should be arount 13 but, and I say but (Just cause I like to) the current is alternating and NOT DC. So make sure you multi-meter is set to read AC. You could also try a test light to confirm you have some output. I scratched my head the first time I tried to test the boltage on my KDX and it did'nt read anything when I had it set to DC.
Good Luck.

Butt.....

Yep on the ACB part.

Keep in mind a few key points.

In stock form, the wiring harness yellow wire is UNwreckulated boltage to the switch. The RED wire is attached to the two-lead device under the seat (on the frame..NOT the CDI on the airbox lid). What you absolutely do NOT want to do is hook the switched wire (yellow) to the lights (only)!!! You switch power to the WRECKULATOR too, not just the lights. The WRECKULATOR is in parallel with the lighting system...not series. You don't wire THROUGH it, you wire TO it. Clear as crystal, right?

Sorry if 'I knew that'. I don't now you do one way or t'other.

IF you go from the switch to the lights (only), to ground..you WILL vlow out the lights.

Output of the lite coil is well over 100BAC. Lights won't last long that way. They will be real bright for just a bit, though!!!

Check to ensure the wreckulator is in the circuit..and that the lite coil is working.

The ACB/DCB part is the most likely problem.

...gee...correcting all the spelling is a PITA!!

Well..............???

It's against the rules to post a problem...but not the answer!!

How did this come out?

I was kidding...but only sortakinda.

Did you get the problem resolved?

Alright. I rode it around the neighborhood the other night and noticed the headlight leads arcing from touching together. I figured there must be power there. I attempted to wire up to my UFO Sahara hi/lo headlight and dropped the high beam bulb and broke it. I wired it to the lo beam bulb and fired it up.

Lights works and it works good!

I checked boltage before and I guess I had the switch off or something. The guy I bought the bike from said the lights didn't work because the stator/coil was bad, WRONG!. I have ridden it several times witht he light since then and it works great.

Just gotta figure out how to get the correct replacement bulb for this UFO headlight now.

Thanks fellas

I forget the model/type numbers, but it's a plug in halogen, right? Don't know if the Sahara model is anything like the twin...

Any lighting/hardware store should have them. Well...they do around here. Prices vary by wattage..and oddly at that. Something odd like a 35W replacement is considerably less than a 30W. Something to do with popularity or such....

Most bike shops will have them, too. Again...around here anyway.