KDXRIDER.NET

I just bought an 83 KDX250 that had been in storage for a long time, cleaned er up and she ran, kinda. The lower and upper power band were almost non existent, once in awhile she would hit and run like a raped ape, I was hooked!! I figured the problem was the carburetor, took it apart, cleaned the gook out, fired it up and off I went-for about 3 minutes!!!! She died and wouldn't refire-checked spark (OW), plenty of fire, had fuel, parked bike, scratched head and decided to look at bike the next day. I saw a small puddle of gas under bike and decided that the float needed adjusting-did that no luck, decided to order a new valve and seat-no luck, not in production anymore. I cleaned up the seat and valve and have a good sealing surface, carb still leaks, not sure if it coming from the float valve. Any ideas on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated. Is it at all possible that the choke could cause the flooding problem? That is the only part of the carb I have not taken apart and since the choke uses additional fuel instead of cutting the airsupply to get the rich condition I figure this is a likely candidate. Last question---where can I order a rebuild kit for this old carburetor?

I'd try Dennis Kirk or maybe search the web for a vintage Kawasaki site that can help on the kit also.

As far as the gas puddle. It sounds to me like a float/needle- seat problem. A guy told me that even something as fine as a hair in the needle/seat area can cause that. Also, depending on the float, if it's one of those two piece brass types, they can leak. If yours is like that and it leaks, it'll be like not haveing a float at all. I had an '84 KDX. Unless I'm confused, I think that bikes carb had a brass float, but I'm not 100% sure. Also, clean the carb out again and put an inline filter on. If it's any consulation, my pit bike (a '78 RM 80) just had the same exact problem. I had cleaned the carb out also after buying the bike. Ran fine for awhile then a day later had the gas puddle problem. Since they wanted $35 for a new needle and seat, I decided to pull the bowl off again and sure enough there was more dirt in the carb bowl. So I installed an inline filter. A must for any dirtbike.

jon.

Re: 'I cleaned up the seat and valve and have a good sealing surface, carb still leaks, not sure if it coming from the float valve.'

Where else would it come from?

1. The carb leaks.
2. The float needle/seat are good.

Those are mutually exclusive statements, are they not?

Well...excepting cracks in castings, bad hoses...stuff like that.

The gas tank is likely a disaster. Was taking care of that part of the 'clean 'er up?'

Thanks, yes it is a brass float and it did have a small-very small leak, I soldered it up and presto, no leak. I have been unable to locate a rebuild kit any where, but I have located new carbs for around $100-145, so that is the route I will be taking, (depending on what the boss says) what size would you guys recommend, 34 or 36MM? I will be primarily riding gravel roads, with some trail riding thrown in, mostly low to mid torque type stuff. I probably answered my own question-34mm??? Thanks again,

Trail riding? 34mm all the way.

Oh, and if you don't have one make sure you do put a fuel filter on anyways. Nothing would suck more than having trouble out on the trail especially half way up a long hill.

Jon.

Why 34mm on a 250?

Does that mean the 36mm on my 2-hunny sucks?? (ha..sometimes I kill myself...)

Two things-yes, I have an inline filter and I also filter all gas before I put it in the bike, my mower, tractor, boat, etc., I have had a few bad experiences with water and crap in my fuel.

Second thing-is a 36mm viable for the 250?? I don't want the bike bogging down on hills and I don't want to shift when I am at speed on a hill. I like power and speed, I spent a few years in Germany and Belgium, nothing like cruising at 135 MPH for long periods of time and not having to worry about johnny law writing a citation.

Thanks again and happy trails

36 will work fine.

Lots of things depend. Some 125s have 39s. Doubt the KDX 250 would be breathing quite as fast as a 125, though.

Bogging? My 200 doesn't have that problems. The 'E' series 200s I've ridden and ridden with that have 36s pull in 4th gear from a dead stop! I'd say that's not bogging.

The 220 comes with a 33..and it's known for not top-end. Yeah..part of that is due to port configuration..but WITH that porting a 36 wakes them up.

I've never ridden a KDX 250..have no idea what they like..but a 34 just seems small.

Ask some of the 250'ers here. Find 'em in the 'Profile' section.

I will check tonight what size the carb on mine is but mine and Ricks are early '90s KDX 250s I doubt I could be of much help. I cann't think of anyone with an early '80 250 around here.

Thanks-everyone

I have done some more research, the bike originally came with a 36mm, with an actual size of 37mm. I ordered a 34 before doing this research because the options I had were 34 or 38mm. I am waiting on word from Fredette Racing if this is the correct carb, I am betting that I will end up with the 38mm.
This is an old bike, but it has low miles, it was a County Sheriffs search and rescue bike that was sold at auction so I feel that it deserves to have a few miles under the saddle, besides---old is good.

Hey Indawoods-remember these kind words of advice-
You can pick your nose and you can pick your friends, but never-ever pick your friends nose!!!

That IS his nose!

First off-Jeff Fredette ROCKS After taking some measurements we have decided to go with the 38mm Carb, I will probably have to rejet the carb but at least it will run. I took the carb off for measurements and lo and behold---the float was half full of gas, no wonder she flooded out again. I don't think I will attempt to solder it up again.

Back to the Jeff Fredette comment-I don't know of to many people in business who have stayed loyal to their customers after becoming a star. Jeff is truly an awesome dude and I would recommend using his services to anyone!!

I will update as soon as I get the green monster dingen along and thanks to all who have provided insight.

Mr. Fredette is indeed a very nice guy!


Solder it up 'again'?

Did I miss that part earlier?

Well yes. I did! Ooops.

I'm going to look Jeff up at the WER in Hancock, NY this July

Allrighty then-carb on, I had to cut some off the intake side, and I had to use the straight carb cap. I tried and tried and she wouldnt start, cussed, moaned, quit, and then something said check the plug!!!! TAADA, wouldnt kick start but it will bump start and WOW what a ride. My next step is jetting and tuning and playing with plugs and stuff. It is pulling the front end up in fourth, I cant wait to see what she will do when she is all tuned up. Thanks to all who offered help, I am sure I will be asking for more help in the future.

Happy trails

OK-A/S out 1 3/4 turns, starts on 1st or 2nd kick, runs like a champ. I putted around slow speed, no bogging of any kind, opened her up going uphill from the lake-she stands on the rear wheel most of the way up. WHAT A RIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!I need to shift my attention to the rear brake, sticks a little and not much stopping power, but what the heck, brakes are over rated any way.

Thanks to everyone who chipped in and see ya on the trail,

Good deal !!

So what carb did you end up using? I have a float sealing problem on my kdx, and looking at an upgrade