KDXRIDER.NET

Has anyone Sawn off the rock gaurd under the shifter?
I was thinking of removing about 1" out of the middle then putting a pin
in between them then beat the two together.

No more missed shifts, and some protection.

Mine is bent and actually partially cracked away from the frame tube it is welded to. I was going to weld it back on, eventually.

Rick

??Huh??

You are referring to the frame loop?

Since you asked....I would never consider doing any such thing.

For starters, if it's in the way of your shift lever, it's your shift lever that's the problem.

Your skid plate should be just as large or a bit larger than the frame loops. The question indicates you don't run a skid plate?

You will ultimately damage your frame in that case...in which case having modified the frame loop(s) won't matter.

One of the first things I did to my bike was cut back that guard. I removed about 1/2 inch from the rear tube and bent the outside into place then re-welded it.

It flat got in the way when you're out of shape (like on a single track rough downhill) and needing to make a shift - The 1/2 cut really made a big difference - no more accidental neutrals - and it still protrudes far enough out to protect the case.

I would recommend cutting it back for sure!

This is pretty funny.

Obviously, to each his own.

I figure the frame loop would be

in the way in a couple of VERY important instances:

1. When shifting with your right foot (reaching from underneath).
2. When your shift lever is oriented to the 6 o'clock position.
3. After modifying the frame loop to second as a b-ball goal.

Y'all have fun, now....hear!

sometimes you are not in a physical situation to make a shift while your foot is daintily planted on a foot peg or your arse is comfortably molded to the seat - sometimes I need to shift while my whole body is up aways from an often gyrating semi-out-of-control bike - albeit unintentional due to a challenging, but not uncommon rough trail situation.... you grab what you can to make it happen... the frame loop (as designed) is definitely an obstacle to overcome as it protrudes just a little too far out when you are trying to bring your foot into position. My transmission has thanked me many times for cutting the loop back. It appreciates the mod even if you don't.

Sounds kinda like using a screwdriver instead of a tire iron to me!

I never found it to be any bother, maybe cause I dont run OEM pegs or try to shift with a bent lever and tend to keep the ball of my foot on the peg. bigger foot pegs help keep your feet on the pegs. ahh!! well!! to each his own!
now weres them screw drivers? I's gots a tiyre to change!

krazyinski wrote:I never found it to be any bother, maybe cause I dont run OEM pegs or try to shift with a bent lever and tend to keep the ball of my foot on the peg. bigger foot pegs help keep your feet on the pegs. ahh!! well!! to each his own!
now weres them screw drivers? I's gots a tiyre to change!

my experience is that KDX's are rough on toes regardless of the kind of footpeg used. Your manly feet may have big balls but I don't know if that would help in all situations.

However...
you can buy the trick pivoting type of aftermarket pegs and bolt your boots directly to them. Get on the bike with just your socks on, strap yourself into the boots and from then on you can't go wrong. Kinda like wrapping the rope securely around your hand when bull riding....it takes a dedicated rider to do this, but once mastered you can take riding to a whole new level.

I heard somewhere, that in Japan, modern motorcycle Ninjas are being trained to ride this way - the boots are firmly locked in place by the Ninja masters and the neophyte is forced to ride until the gas tank is emptied. Nothing can stop a Ninja so trained, and, of course, the frame loop is no longer an issue for even the most challenging of riding experiences.

Its Going down, and I'll Post how to photos!
"Kawagumby "

Cool, we can "sticky" it with:
How to take 3" of travel out of the suspension,
Reducing unsprung mass by removing every other spoke,
and Sawing off that handle thingy on the right side of the frame, because it gets in the way of my Superman Seat Grabs ;)

I really can't understand why someone would want to modify the hoop but maybe - just maybe - the photos will enlighten. I rode the 200 most of 2005 and once in 06 but don't recall any problems in this area - but then again I'm not very fast and don't loose control very often.


FWIW - When I'm totally out-of-shape hanging on for dear life as I bounce along shifting the bike is the least of my worries.

Hey Oldschool,
All BS'n aside, I did cut back the frame loop slightly - and it was a BIG improvement with my riding style. I put a picture of it in my gallery which currently is in the second page....notice that the boot scuff marks are now limited to the tip when before the marks were much further in.

Don't be discouraged by nay-sayers...if it works for you there is no drawback - although it is not apparent in the photo the loop still projects far enough out to completely protect the case - even with my case extended slightly due to the flywheel weight addition.

For the lazy peeps.



Again all BS'n aside, I have size 14 boots and don't have a problem. Are 'you all' using after market levers ?? You all = everyone interested in hacking the loop off. I ask because Kawagumbys looks like an aluminium Moose or similar.

That's a stock earlier model KX lever.

It's NOT about shoe size, it's about riding style/terrain....I ride in places with ugly drop-offs, ruts and roots where it is easy to get out of shape, still need to upshift for control without going into a neutral or clashing gears, the loop got in the way too often - for me this is a major fix.

This is my third H model - I'm doing all the things on this one that I learned to do with the others. Please note this is not about "hacking the loop off" but is about reducing an unnecessary projection of about 1/2 inch.

To clarify, for some riders (I'm sure I''m not the only one here) it is not uncommon to be forced to shift while your left boot is completely off the peg while you're loading the right peg - depends on the situation you're in.

Are you talking about shifting with your heel instead of your toe? Cuz I can't really see where the issue might be

In a tough situation, I shift with whatever part of the boot is available - very often the sides further back - sometimes I shift while only the back of the heel is on the peg.

Flat ground is boring, I guess.