KDXRIDER.NET

It is a long story as to how my KIPS got sticky. The stickiness was tolerable up to this weekend when it stuck and would not unstick until I got home. It took the left side round cover off and touched the nut with a 10 mm socket and it closed. Operating the KIPS from there, it gets hung up open evry time. Running and revving the motor, it gets stuck and does not come back.

Time to fix it.

I need to clean up the bore on the right hand subport actuation rod shaft.

There is no way to do that without removing the cylinder, is there??

If I pull the cylinder I need to AT LEAST replace rings??

AUUGH, DAMN!!

My race season is fast approaching and I don't want this to be happening.

Someone tell me it will be allright

Get a gasket set from Cometic. If the hone is fine and the ring gap is fine you don't need new rings, but rings are cheap. Even if the hone looks fine I'd hit it with a Scotch Brite pad just cuz. Maybe replace the piston bearing too if it's been in there a long time. It's cheap too. Clean up the KIPS system and reassemble. If the KIPS is that bad I'd suggest using a different pre-mix.

As far as I can tell there isn't a way to get the button head fasteners out to remove the left and right actuation rods. There just isnt enough room.

Rings are cheap. This would also be a good time to inspect the piston, clean the entire kips system.

Check the kips detent ball, spring on the right side of the cylinder. The little ball bearing may be dirty causing your hang up.

I'm don't know what kind of premix you are using but I'm sold on Amsoil. My kips and cylinder were almost spotless after 2500 miles. I'll never use any other premix again.

That is what I was afraid of; there is no way to get to the shaft bores without removing the cylinder.
I did not want to do that because it is running great (apart from KIPS) and not due a piston/ring job yet.

I guess that is what I'll have to do. I've checked out the little detent ball and spring, all is O.K.

I'll resist getting into a oil discussion here. The root cause of the problem comes from a plating job done a couple of years ago. The pre-plating "pickling" goobered up the bore of the right hand subport actuating shaft. I did not correct it then, now I'll have to.

I stripped it down last night and have a plan.
I'm doing shock oil change, relube/inspect linkage, replace lower shock bearing, tire, tube, chain, sprockets etc...

I pulled the exhaust and spark plug and inspected the cylinder. Looks perfect, clean, no scuffing, no blow by...

I'm going to remove all the motor mounts except the swingarm and tip the motor back in the frame. Pull the head and and I should be able to do what I need to.

I just have such an aversion to disturbing that which need not be disturbed.

Am I being a dumb a$$?

Tilting the engine back sounds like a good idea.

My rings were worn to the upper end of the service limit called out in the manual. My bike has never been raced, just single track. Have you checked the compression on your bike? Still might not be a bad idea to re-ring for the race season.

1. 'I stripped it down last night...'

2. 'I'm going to remove all the motor mounts except the swingarm and tip the motor back in the frame.'



Am I the only one that has NO clue what's going on?

IF you 'stripped it down'..why would you be taking the motor mounts out for access?

Does '..stripped it down...' have something to do with clothing worn at the time?

You can get to the RH rod with the cylinder on the bike. I've done it. Enough to replace the RH subport drum anyway.

You're not going to get access to some of the REST of the stuff..and overall, it's just plain easier to take the cylinder off.

You could leave the piston IN there. No messing with the rings.

If you go that route, DO go to a good lot of effort to plug up everything...transfer ports, intake ports, etc etc..to keep crud from getting into the works.

Considering the possibility of THAT happening with taking the KIPS apart and especially if your 'honing' or messing with the RH rod bore, the 'easy' part of keeping the piston/rings all in place may in the end make it all more difficult.

You probably recall this from earlier threads on your situation..but pay particular care on assembly to the subport drum pin that protrudes into the cylinder head. No crud in the receiving head hole, no interference from the head gasket. You may recall this, too...but when I last got parts from FRP one of the subport extensions into the head had been removed. Fredette said it didn't matter if it was there or not..and if you look at how it all fits together you will see that is so. Still...I wondered if maybe that valve had been modified on purpose to resolve some sticking problem when the head was torqued down.

Did you get your OEM 'packing' grommet thingy?

Anyone ever try this?

A local mechanic (the one that first turned me on too Yamaha Combustion Chamber Cleaner) told me that Yamaha Combustion Chamber Cleaner, is like 2stroke engine tune up in a can. He says to take the stuff and spray it directly into the carb while the bike is running, may have to rev some to keep from stalling. He said you'd be amazed by all the crap that'll come out of the pipe!

I have not tried it myself yet, but might The next time I buy some

Kinda like Sea Foam?

I don't know wtf sea faom is, or at least don't remember

I do know that YCCC cuts through spooge like nothing I've ever seen.

I've cleaned all the carbon off the top of my piston with just a toothrush and YCCC, while it was still in the cylinder

If it is anything like Subaru upper engine and combustion cleaner than it is WICKED (read: great) stuff. The method you mention is actually the instructions on the can I have. It is designed to be sprayed into a running engine through the carb or a vacum line. It cost me about $30 but it made the carbon and spooge wipe right off. 10/10

I asked the local Yammy dealer about that stuff. They had NO idea what I was talking about, had never heard of it, wouldn't/couldn't order it, well, 'cuz they didn't know what it was.

How about an item# off a can? Part number? Catalog number?

10/10?

Is that anything like 5/5? At least that 'phrase' MEANS something. Without Google, who knows what? (I do).

I have used it on my yam. outboard before, find a yam. outboard dealer they will sell it.

Now there's something I hadn't thought of. I'd asked at the cycle/quad dealer.

Thanks!

The "stripped down" part DOES refer to attire while working on my bike. I have found that if I wear a cut off tank top, leopard thongs, and sandals with white socks, NO ONE comes looking over my shoulder. I've even had a neighbor stop and roll the garage door down!

No, seriously, I appreciate all that you guys have to say, and you are all correct. I'll probably have to pull the cylinder, in the end, to fix the KIPS.
I do own one of them grommet thingys

I used to play with VW motors a lot. One thing we used to do was pour about 2 cups of diesel through the carb while holding full throttle. I guess it cleaned 'em out, I never saw a "before and after"

I'm gonna make sure MY garage door is closed...on the off chance I could catch a glimpse of any such visual assault from here!

canyncarvr wrote:I asked the local Yammy dealer about that stuff. They had NO idea what I was talking about, had never heard of it, wouldn't/couldn't order it, well, 'cuz they didn't know what it was.

How about an item# off a can? Part number? Catalog number?

Hmmmm, I'm pretty sure
I've bought it at Naumes before and they had some last time I was there, few months ago....

I have used tran fluid in mazda rotary engine before. Don't exactly know what it cleans but if it had a miss it didn't after about a half of a quart. Smokes like hell and really up sets the neighbors

Ya know, I wish someone on this silly board would have suggested that it would be just as easy to take the cylinder off to do this job

One of the main purposes of this board is documenting experience, what works, what don't.

Here is my contribution:

The RH subport bore cannot be smoothed out with the cylinder on the bike. Once the head is off and the motor is tipped back in the frame you still can't get anything into the bore because the frame is in the way. (duh...)
It is also kind of tough getting the RH shaft out; the main shaft needs to get out of the way and the actuating shaft coming up interferes with that.

Anyway, the cylinder is off and KIPS dissasembled and all parts soaking in my parts washer. The cylinder and piston looked wonderfull.

Thanks, guys!!!

Take off the cylinder? Who'da thunk THAT!?

I wrote:You can get to the RH rod with the cylinder on the bike. I've done it. Enough to replace the RH subport drum anyway.

That was specifically written the way it was. I know you can't get the main shaft out, so you can't get the subport actuators out. You can move the RH rod enough to get the drum out, though. Hope that comment wasn't construed to mean you CAN get access the the RH rod with the cylinder on. I specifically said otherwise....but Helen Reddy Spedd Redders may have past the second part up.

Yanno, I think it would be a whole lot easier to take the cylinder off.

Is it fixed, yet?