'Noticed reference to removing a couple of shims from the shim stack in the stock forks while nosing around with our handy-dandy search feature . . . the idea being - I think - reducing the "jar" from more solid, high-speed or square-edged hits.
I did more searching because I remember seeing advice on how to get to the shim stack without the special nut-holding tool and I'm not having much luck. The online manual states that it's allright to use an impact driver to loosen the allen bolt in the absense of the special tool . . . but then it states NOT to use the impact driver for reassembly yet doesn't suggest what to do instead.
What are/did you guys do to access the shim stack?
I was going to remove 2 shims. Other suggestions/comments?
I have come to realize that replacing the forks altogether is the most highly recommended mod and I plan on doing so eventually, but for the moment whatever comments you have regarding this would indeed be helpful and appreciated.
Thanks!
Shim Mod
- Indawoods
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I got the damper rod holding tool ifn' ya need it.... I think I have it in the for sale section for $15.... or used too.
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- canyncarvr
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Nah! BOGUS!!!
If all you're doing is taking out a couple of shims..do that with the forks on the bike!
Affix a bike strap between the wheel (wherever suits) and someplace on the bike (like the lower triple..wherever suits). Scrunch the suspension, hold it with the tie down.
Lay the bike down, prop up the front-end so the fork oil will run 'downhill'.
Take out the valve, do the deed, put it back in. You CAN use an impact to put the base valve in if you know what your wrench does torque wise. I did.
If not, put the valve back in, torque the thing to spec you're done.
A good 1/2" air impact can easily ruin a set of forks. If you're of the type that looks up the front axle cap spec, reads the number as FT/lbs and the fact that you're dealing with a liddle teeny stud doesn't sound a BIG RED alarm, you should not use an impact on the base valve.
No Jeb..that wasn't directed at you, but at the casual other reader of this salient post.
If all you're doing is taking out a couple of shims..do that with the forks on the bike!
Affix a bike strap between the wheel (wherever suits) and someplace on the bike (like the lower triple..wherever suits). Scrunch the suspension, hold it with the tie down.
Lay the bike down, prop up the front-end so the fork oil will run 'downhill'.
Take out the valve, do the deed, put it back in. You CAN use an impact to put the base valve in if you know what your wrench does torque wise. I did.
If not, put the valve back in, torque the thing to spec you're done.
A good 1/2" air impact can easily ruin a set of forks. If you're of the type that looks up the front axle cap spec, reads the number as FT/lbs and the fact that you're dealing with a liddle teeny stud doesn't sound a BIG RED alarm, you should not use an impact on the base valve.
No Jeb..that wasn't directed at you, but at the casual other reader of this salient post.
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
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- skipro3
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- Jeb
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So I really don't even need an impact wrench at all then . . . compressing the forks holds things rigidly enough to loosen the allen bolt?skipro3 wrote:I've seen guys do exactly as CC said while out on trail rides. Amazing!!
I assume that the forks remain compressed during the "operation" . . .
This may be a dumb question: is removing the peened end of the threads on the valve assy (or whatever it's called) so that I can get the nut and the shim stack off difficult? What I'm asking here is - is it easy to muck the threads up? I read in the service manual that the initial disassembly required this.
Unless I end up with different forks before the weather breaks I'm gonna try to remove a few of the shims.
The shims are the same size/thickness aren't they?