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Something like this:

Use some mechanic's wire, safety wire or something similar. Twist it such that it looks kind'a like a drill bit??.. but leave an untwisted section that you can insert a strip of wet-n-dry paper into. Use it like a hone.

If it is indeed flash from the coating process that's causing the problem, sandpaper won't touch it.

Save yourself a headache..take the cylinder to a machinist that can chase that hole with the proper machining tool.

I know this is a very old thread but it's the only thread I found so far about packing on valve rod. I bought a new one because I screwed original one up while taking rod out to clean. My bikes cylinder has original electrocution. I just cleaned it. Ok- with that new packing on RH powervalve rod I will not go in. It won't even go past first threads where retaining bolts go. The only way I see to get it on would be after rod is through threaded section where it is again exposed near where main shaft goes through. Which would be super hard to get Packing over rod while in that tiny area to work. Any of you guys know a fairly easy way to do this?

Electrofusion, stupid auto correct.

I would oil the packing o-ring, and slide it on the rod. Then install the rod.

Mine was the same way. Almost like when you rebuild a brake master cylinder and have to push the seals through the bore. It feels like they’re going to get messed up and then they pop through.
Premix or grease on the packing, installed on the rod and then twist and push at the same time until it pops through. Then check through the “window” on the right to see the packing still in place as it should be.

The O-ring goes on the rod, then the rod is inserted with the O-ring end first. Lube it up with some premix oil to help it along.

That is exactly how I tried to do it. I'm telling you the packing will literally not go past the first thread in cylinder without ripping it apart. I tried 2t oil. I tried grease. I tried twisting the rod as if I were threading in a bolt. It's just too tight!

Pictures.

Reviving this artifact once again to ask about how important that packing seal is.
I haven't been able to conduct an accurate leak down test because of it, but will such an air leak screw with jetting/combustion mixture? Or does the mixture remain unaffected because it's a leak on the exhaust side of things?
I got it to seal up better by removing the shaft and greasing the rear section like the manual shows, but it's still leaking and that seal doesn't appear to be in stock anywhere.
Is there a generic that can be had? I measured the square O ring at 6mm ID, 8mm OD and 2mm tall.
Perhaps a round O ring?

Or am i overthinking this and it's okay if the current packing seal leaks @ 1psi per minute?
I've heard some people remove the seal entirely. I don't plan on doing that, but would be curious to hear the effects.

Any help from someone with experience is much appreciated!
And thank you to all of you KDX'rs past and present that post on this forum. What a wealth of knowledge!