Packing..43049-1076 RH KIPS rod

[canyncarvr]

I now have all the answers..answers to burning questions that have doubtless kept many awake many a night.

The OEM packing on my bike on the RH activation rod was..well, I don't know what it was. Apparently a fibrous material, not something that would seal off much of ANYthing. The diameter of the packing wasn't any bigger than the rod.

I considered putting an o-ring in that postiion..but the diameter, thickness, the heat range..I wondered about all of that.

So...I just ordered the OEM stuff.

What I just got? O-rings! NOT what the bike came with! They are special o-rings, though. They look like x-rings on a chain..but the 'relief' or cut is on the outer diameter as opposed to a lateral diameter.

Consider where an x-ring seats..against the outer plate. The 'packing' seats in a cylindrical fashion..so that's where the 'x' is made to seat..on an OUTER/larger diameter.

Clear as a bell, 'eh?

Great!!

$2.92 each. I got two..one to use, one for a 'spare'.

[Indawoods]

I'll take the spare CC....

[vinny]

What year bike do you have? Or should I say, does this include E series?

Vinny

[m0rie]

CC and Inda have H series bikes. I don't think this applies to the KIPS setup on the E series bikes.

[canyncarvr]

You COULD check the part number....

'E' series KIPS is not at all the same animal as the 'H' series. The 'E' has a number of larger o-rings, but nothing of the type of 'packing' the 'H' has. Certainly not the same part number.


Re: I'll....

Then I wouldn't HAVE a spare, would I.

I got one for each of my cylinders. It's only 'spare' 'cuz I'm sure it won't be used in the next few months.

[Indawoods]

Uh huh... sure CC!

We want a highly detailed pic....

[skipro3]

Well Inda, If it were me, I would have given you the part and made sure you would not have had to pay shipping either. But that's just the kind of guy I am.

[canyncarvr]

I never claimed to be the sweetheart Ski says he is.

Criminy...I paid no shipping. Got them from the dealer on their regular Kawi order. For <$3 it's not worth hassling with sending one all over the country.

But..that's just the kind of guy I am!

[Indawoods]

Kiddin anyways... would like to see a pic of the little bugger though...

[canyncarvr]

Like this:





Criminy...$300 camera..2816x2112, superfine, cropped..and this is what I get? Well, at 1/8 second, I guess it is!

And it's what YOU get, too!!

Obviously, EXACTLY as I described, 'eh?

[Indawoods]

Looks similar to what was on mine... a little bit better condition of course....

[skipro3]

CC, put your camera on close-up mode. With digitals, it's usually indicated by the symbol of a flower.

That photo helps explain your definition of a Y-axis oriented X ring. I would say it looks like a grommet to me. A very tiny grommet.

BTW, I was kiddin' to. I would have made a tidy profit on Inda and told him I paid $30, they only came in pairs and I would sell him the spare for $15. Hey,, beer isn't free you know!!

[canyncarvr]

Gee mr ski...thanks!

It was in close-up mode. With digitals, it's usually referred to as 'macro'.

I even spent some quality time with the two manuals that came with the camera to ensure the selected mode was indeed a 'fit' with the other mode possibilities. THAT because where the manual talks about macro mode it says 'Some modes may only work with some other modes.'

Now THERE is a gem of wisdom in a single sentence. Now...I wouldn't expect macro mode to work with night mode (fireworks is the example), but would you guess that macro would or would NOT work in landscape? Portrait? Auto? Aperture preferred? Shutter preferred? Who knows!

And, yes..I set the ISO, focus weighting (evaluative, center,spot etc), WB (white balace). I tried MF (manual focus) but that is evidently 'one' that doesn't work with some 'other'. The manual says macro is good for 2" from lens to object..but manual focus won't go below 10". Wouldn't expect that as macro/manual focus are mutually exclusive options..selected with the same button. Push once for macro, twice for MF, three times for default which is 'normal', neither macro NOR manual (meaning 'far away/auto').

I'm not as stoopid as I look I am!!

GROMMET!! Now THERE is the word I was looking for when I started this thread. It excaped me!!

Obviously that leads one to wonder about how looking stoopid I be.

..I suppose I owe you a beer or two for THAT redirection, too....

[canyncarvr]

Back to the pointless point...

Inda: You had one? On a '95? It must've been replaced already?

Makes me wonder why mine had no such thing. Maybe they just ran out of 'em on the day they made my bike?

[kelasaki]

I don't know how that part can improve your braking, but it looks like it ...

... stops on a dime now.

Sorry, I couldn't resist.

[canyncarvr]

Ha! Good one!

YOU couldn't resist...and I hadn't even thought of it!! I'm ashamed.

Kudos.

[KarlP]

Thanks for that info, CC
I'll be needing to get one(or two) of those
I'll be needing to do some work on that bore eventually. My KIPS valve is a little sticky, slow to open, slow to close. I had traced the problem to the "pickling" or whatever is done before they replate a cylinder. It goobered up the bore the RH KIPS shaft runs in

[Indawoods]

Well CC... the KIPS on the bike had never worked from new. That's why it wasn't gone..... Works NOW!

[canyncarvr]

Karl: I remember you saying that....

Something to keep in mind....

KIPS troubles can come from interference between the cylinder parts and the head. You notice this when, before the head is put on everything is fine, and then the final torque sequence 'sticks' the KIPS.

Lubricate the KIPS drums/rods as says the manual. Some common sense works well there. Say...the subport drum fits in a blind hole in the cylinder that has NO pressure relief. Too much oil used on assembly can get you a hydraulic lock..makes it hard to move stuff.

The last drum part I got from FRP?...the top of the drum was cut off so it didn't even extend into the head! I asked about it..he said it was fine. Indeed, if you look at the 'fit' of the parts at that location there shouldn't be any sort of bind problem.

Anyway...forewarned is forearmed. Make sure the KIPS works as well 'closed up' as it did before you put the head on.

[KarlP]

Yeah, It was stiff when it was just a cylinder assembled on the bench. I got the cylinder back from plating, assembled the KIPS into it, found it a litlle stiff and sticky, and then commenced to disassembling to find the source of the "stickiness". I found it in the bore of that RH shaft.
I reassembled it anyway.
Lack of experience, meaning not being sure how much "sticky" was too much "sticky", and a desire to go riding led me to hope it would wear in and be O.K.
It didn't wear in, but it is not really bad.
When cold, like within the first 10 - 15 minutes of riding, if I wick it up, the KIPS will hang open for 20 - 30 seconds, regardless of RPM. Sounds cool, but looses low end. After it is thoroughly warmed up, it is hardly noticeable to me unless I ride soeone elses KDX.

I haven't quite figured out how I am going to smooth that bore to restore smooth operation.
I do know you can't do it without taking the head off, I'll need a new rod seal, and it can wait untill the next top end job.