KDXRIDER.NET

Those that have them, which ones and how do you like them? I am going to purchase mine tonight. Fredette recomended 21#/38kg for me.

Vinny

You've got the stock 93/94 USD forks right?

Yeah.

How much do you weigh?

about 210lbs

It's not my bike, I don't know how you ride, what you're after...but .38's sound a tad low to me.

What are your rear sag numbers?

The two ends should 'match' for best performance. I would suspect that with a 100mm race sag, your free sag is on the skinny side. Less than 1/2"?

For your weight, Race Tech suggests .45's

I've heard some say Race Tech's calculations run a little high

For my bike and weight they suggested .49's but they only go up to .46's for it, which, IMHO, are perfect

I don't know about the sag as I have never adjusted the suspension on a bike before. All I know is the rear is all factory and the front seemed soft even by KDX standards. I probly won't be racing the bike unless I get talked into a hair scramble or something.

Vinny

I plan on letting the local motorcycle dealer install the new fork springs when they service the forks. Is this going to be a drop in item? Or are they going to have to change anything else? I'm ignorent(sp) when it comes to forks.

Vinny

Are the Race Tech springs a pretty good value ?
I am soon to order springs for my 05 kdx200
and I think the correct spring should be .44-.46 as I am 230
and only found them on Race Tech's site for $109.00
Anyone think thats too low a spring and am I paying too much.
I seen springs on Fredette's site for 79.00 but only up to
.42's, I think

BTW my forks/shock are all stock OE

Vinny: You need to become not ignorant. Chances of 'a shop' doing the job anything other than awful aren't too good. Few so-called 'mechanics' know what they are doing, and if they DO know somethng, the don't seem to CARE one way or t'other.

I'm not harping on anyone in particular...they all stink until they prove them selves otherwise. Of course you can see the conundrum THAT leads to. Why give them the chance to prove anything?

Are they 'drop-in'? Pretty much. A 'drop-in' job won't get the oil changed, the preload set to any reasonable level, the OIL set to the same, etc.

If you have basic mechanical skills and tools, you can do it just fine. If you don't, or have no interest in messing with it, then I guess a dealer or 3rd party mech is what's left.

IF that's the way you go, I'd be curious how they answer these questions when you pick them up:

1. What preload did you use?
2. What's the oil level?
3. What clip thickness did you use on the bottom?

1. Has an answer in mm. If they say, 'We used the OEM spacers,' you know they are losers.

2. Has an answer in mm. If they say, 'It's set to spec.'...but don't know what that mm # is, they are losers.

3. Doesn't have an answer..not regarding 'thickness' anyway. What they SHOULD say is something along the line of, 'The bottom clips don't vary in thickness ('ya boob!). We just reused the clips that were on the old springs.

If they say, 'Clips? What clips?', they are losers.

And in each case of them being losers, you should do it over again...correctly...yourself.

You need to set-up the shock spring for your weight, too.


BTW, it's 'hare scramble'...as in chasing a silly wabbit?


TW: RaceTech's recommendations springrate-wise tend to be high..as do their spring prices. I've not known anyone to argue that their quaility is bad, though. Just my own hunch, but for woods riding, I'd think .42s would be fine for 230#. FRP has generally rec'd lighter springs with more preload. I went through I think four sets of springs before I got what I wanted. Some outfits (MX-Tech...Jeremy Wilkey did) will let you return a spring set that doesn't suit you. Don't know about RT.

Race Tech has a triple rate spring kit .40-.46

I originally had em in my DR but now have them in the KDX

The spring by itself is a .46, by adding one of two different smaller springs you lower the rate

I don't mind doing the work myself as I do most mechanical work myself anyway. I don't have the proper tools to preform the job unless they can be substituted for regular common tools. I get your point though. I don't really trust them for anything other than basic repair. I may study up on the process and do it myself. What other parts would most likely need replacing and who has the best prices? What kind and wt oil is the best. I am trying to do this on some sort of budget (kinda). I thought you were supposed to get your hair fixed at a hare scramble

Vinny

I'd think .42s would be fine for 230#. FRP has generally rec'd lighter springs with more preload. I went through I think four sets of springs before I got what I --------------

Thanks for the reply CC/Mr W
I have ordered the FRP's .42 and have a question on the preload?
I have the online KDX manual but it really doesn't have much of any
mention of properly setting preload.
Is there a spec on setting them ?
I believe you can change the prelaod with different length spacers
or also use PVC pipe?

Yes. You can use PVC. 1", schedule 40.

Preload will change with personal preference. There is a proper way to measure it, but not a 'proper' amount to run. The OEM preload is just plain stoopid at about 35mm. A good place to start is 10mm, change from there to suit.

I preferred around 3mm myself in the OEM forks.

Vinny: There are no special tools required to change your springs. You can set oil level with a simple syringe and a piece of tubing cut to the oil level you want. Make it 110mm and be happy. You can hold the cap jam nut with a wrench...or cut a piece of sheet metal to use as a spring holder.

My trademarked, jenuwine tool for the job:



Make the slot wide enough to fit around the rod.

I recieved my springs today and installed just gotta try it out.
I measure the fork oil before draining and it was set at
5 1/2 inches and came out like molasses.
I had a few choice words for Ma Kaw !!!
300 miles on the bike.
Save a few nickles...

That is a well known fact about the Kawasaki oil substitute. Pond scum is it's formal name I believe....

Ha
The bastreads didn't even file it properly with there pond scum

140mm?

To be fair, you can't really use that as meaning anything. The oil is checked with the spring out..and by the time you TAKE the spring out to measure a level you have already lost 'some' oil.

Oh well. It's better to be 'fixed' 'eh?

Make sure the 'new' oil is 'settled'. Pump the rod until you don't hear air, tap the fork a few times...let it sit for awhile...etc etc.


HEY!! Your bike came with:

No grease
A POS final drive
Bogus front springs
Fish oil
Crap tires
Stupid hand guards
Jetting for nothing


...and kicks for free!!

...Whadd'ya expect? I mean...the thing ONLY cost a couple of bucks!!

Very true CC.

I let the goop run off the spring back into the cylinder BEFORE
removing just to see how much fluid was in the fork when I
started.
It was about 5.5 inches or 139.something mm if you like the metric numbers.
I imagine the new fork oil will flow through the valve easier now
and most likely have to stiffen up the clicks .