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That means the the cylinder will be stamped with a "A" "B" "C" or "D" (most are "B") and you will have to buy the corrosponding piston to fit unless you buy a Wiseco which is what I would do.

Your cylinder will have a letter stamped in it.





With a new 'B' cylinder for eg. you would want to order a 'B' piston.



EDIT

Beaten by that much.... But I got pics.

This realistically applies only to the 'H' 200...because using an OEM piston in the 'H' 220 should never happen.

'H' model engines have a matching cylinder/piston with an alpha designation A-G. The different designations involve sizing differences of approximately .0005" (.01mm) that are manufacturing tolerance variances. Count the zeroes..that's 1/2 of one thousandth..not five thousandths.

You can order Pro-X pistons in the different 'sizes' if you get them from a Pro-X dealer. If you get a piston from a KAW dealer, you canNOT specify a specific alpha designation. Usually you will get a 'B' piston...not always.

I do not know if the 'E' series bikes are marked in such a way.

Is there an alpha character stamped on the piston crown of the piston out of your bike?

OK...I quit bucking the system and went to look for myself.

Pro-X does list A-F sizes for the 'E' model ('89) I looked at on the Pro-X website.

Just make sure the stuff fits when you put it together!!

**edit**

YOU got pics? I've seen those somewhere....but isn't that Pro-X chart for an 'H' model 200? Hhhmmmm??????

And THIS is why I don't wanna take the time to go document stuff..again. I end up repeating what's already been said! Well, that and not looking at page 2!

Nice pics, KayD!!! Very nice!!!

I scored a new Wiseco piston kit off Ebay last night for a unreal $43 + $10 shipping . So I should be alright. Right?

Mr. Wibbens you don't ride your dirtbike in that outfit do you? You may burn you leg on the exhaust .

Yeah I got pics... from YOUR gallery. It was late in the AM and I wasn't even going to reply but couldn't help myself. I had fully intended to give credit to the owner of the pics but I was asleep at the wheel.

Dear Mr Bradley Carver, I would like to take this opportunity to publicly apologize whole-heartedly for my lack of consideration and due credit for the above posted images. I also send along a sincere apology for the unauthorized use of YOUR images and I promise to be more careful in the future when conducting such activities.

Yours faithfully,

Sir R Sat.....

Now where'd I put me sign.....

(PS Please don't send Mr Skipro after me, he's a a scary dude with some heavy connections, just ask ya mate Marc. I said I'm sorry, mkay)....

I missed the 220 part of the equation aswell, <note to self>STOP posting in your sleep. Speaking of which, goodnight.....

That's OK. You're still missing it.

I don't know about the 200/220 part, it's the 'H' 'E' part.

Sheesh...it's not credit for the pics that I give a hoot about...it's just pics for the wrong bike is all!


How IS yur buddy marc doin', anyway? Is he walking again...yet?

One little question

Why does it matter with a Pro X piston but not with a Wiseco?

Cast vs. Forged....

Well that explains it

You can't just slap a Wiseco piston into a brand new engine with no time on it. Forged pistons require about .002" more cold clearance than a cast piston. Once it's time for the first top-end job, a cylinder will usually have loosened up enough for the forged piston to have enough clearance. Most Japanese two-strokes spec .002"-.004" clearance for the OEM pistons. Wiseco specs .003"-.005" clearance.

A Forged piston expands more than a cast piston.

Well I just purchased a new wiseco piston kit for my new cylinder. Are you telling me I can't use it? Please say it isn't so!

Spec it out first... Go though several heat cycles before going full out as all forged pistons need to be seasoned to settle.
Fully warm up everytime before riding and everything should be fine. Forged pistons are better in the long run.

Here's Eric Gorr's comments on break-in. I replaced mine a few months back and afterwards did ONE heat cycle - what is listed below - followed by allowing the bike to completely cool. Then when I warmed it up - and I let it warm up completely - I ran it like I was my last day to ride and it ran wonderfully. No problems, only joy.

With the forged piston in place, I allow my 220 to thoroughly warm up prior to really hitting the juice.

When you initially start the engine after a rebuild, manipulate the choke to keep the engine rpm relatively low. Once the engine is warm enough to take it off choke, drive the vehicle around on flat hard ground. Keep it under 2/3 throttle for the first 30 minutes. Two common myths for proper engine break-in are; 1) Set the engine at a fast idle, stationary on a stand. 2) Add extra pre-mix oil to the fuel. When the engine is on a stand it doesn’t have any air passing through the radiator and it is in danger of running too hot. When you add extra oil to the fuel you are effectively leaning the carb jetting. This can make the engine run hotter and seize.

When you start it up after the rebuild you'll also want to have the cap off the radiator and allow the bubbles in the system time to escape - recap when it stops bubbling. So really you'll two things to contend with: keeping the idle low and watching the coolant.

Good luck!!