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Sheared bolt...help?

Posted: 08:42 pm Jan 01 2007
by Kawinj
So I overtightened the bolt for my rear break lever and inevitably snapped it off. My nice torque wrench sitting in the corner laughed so hard it fell out of it's fancy plastic case.

Do I just drill the remaining screw out and re-thread the receiving post a diameter bigger? I've never sheared a bolt off on the frame. It's always been on something more "expendable".

Posted: 09:14 pm Jan 01 2007
by TWMOODY
Drill it small enough not to damage the threads then use an ez-out to remove the drilled broken bolt.
If you didn't cross thread it going in it shouldn't be to difficult.

Posted: 09:19 pm Jan 01 2007
by Rick
Well, you could do that, or drill a small hole in it and then use an easy out bit. Its threaded backwards, so when you run it in, it grabs the bolt, and spins it out. If you can weld, you can use an extractor rod with a nut and get it out that way.

Posted: 09:30 pm Jan 01 2007
by Kawinj
Thanks, I remember reading about something like that on here, couldn't find it on a search.

Posted: 09:43 pm Jan 01 2007
by tim

Posted: 02:15 pm Jan 02 2007
by canyncarvr
An ez-out and an ez-out bit are different things?

I've not heard of an ez-out 'bit'. You can put an ez-out in a chuck if you want to...but it being mentioned separately, is it different somehow?

I can't tell from the pic on the Sears site...are theirs straight or twisted flutes?

Anyone with a preference between the two types?

Posted: 05:39 pm Jan 02 2007
by TWMOODY
The twisted design works much better as it is made for a right hand thread. You can buy them CHEAP at home depot if you think you would
only use it once.
If you don't like using a torque wrench buy a whole set cause you will
need em if you like to see how strong you are. :lol:

Posted: 06:22 pm Jan 02 2007
by canyncarvr
I've used some Snap-ons in the past (twisted left, for RHT fasteners). They worked perfectly (brake pad guide pin last time).

If what was purchased from Home Depot could be used successfully once, that would probably be a very good thing.

Haven't looked, but I assume there is such a thing as EZ-Outs for LHT...and they could be twisted. Or not.

Posted: 06:32 pm Jan 02 2007
by tim
>|<>QBB<
canyncarvr wrote:An ez-out and an ez-out bit are different things?

I've not heard of an ez-out 'bit'. You can put an ez-out in a chuck if you want to...but it being mentioned separately, is it different somehow?

I can't tell from the pic on the Sears site...are theirs straight or twisted flutes?

Anyone with a preference between the two types?
They are twisted, they have a drill bit on the tip and as you drill (with your drill in reverse) it pulls the twisted part down into the bolt and grabs it and then twists it out all in 1 step.

Posted: 09:57 pm Jan 02 2007
by Kawinj
I have used the double ended ones for cabinet screws. One end creates ridges in the stripped out head and then the other end backs it out when applied in reverse. (limited success)

So today I bought a set of the Irwin spiral extractors...I'd like my $15.99 back please.

Actually I hastily tried to drill the recomended 7/64 size hole for the 6mm extractor. Problem is, even with a pilot point bit trying to stay dead center on a 6mm post is damn near impossible (even when graduating up from smaller bits to start) First time the bit walks, you're SOL and it also would have helped if I had taken the right foot peg off so it would be completely out of the way.

As I pushed inward the collet of the drill was rubbing against the peg making my hole on a slight angle which in turn destroyed the existing good threads on the post that holds the pivot bolt for the rear break lever which is where this nightmare began. :mad:

I drilled out the entire post, re-threaded it, screwed in a new bolt (gently) and called it a success. :mrgreen: