Rear Setup.

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cfspawn
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Rear Setup.

Post by cfspawn »

Hey all just thought id get your thoughts on my bikes static/race sag...
I have adjusted to rear height adjustment as i am tall so any height is a good thing.
I have measured from the usual places to get 630mm free stand to 610mm,ish standing sag which would mean i have 20mm of static sag there.
from there with gear on and sitting on the bike as i would i got a measurement of 530mm which would mean i have 100mm of "race sag" from all reports seems pretty close any comments would be great.
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KDXer
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Post by KDXer »

Sounds pretty close to me, 100-110mm race sag and 20-35mm free sag AFAIK is acceptable but I'd wait for others to chime in to be sure. :butthead:
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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

It's fine...if you like it that way.

While there are guidelines (1/3 total travle..that sort of thing), it does come down to what suits you.

With race sag on the less mm (taller) side of things, the front end will act a bit 'quicker' (which goes with 'unstable'). Oppositely for race sag being on the higher mm side.

Picture it as changing the bike front end from a tricycle to a chopper effect.

You set the race sag first..free sag follows, not the other way around. If your free sag is 'wrong' with race sag correct, that's an indication of an incorrect spring choice (for your weight).

The best part of it is now you know it's setup satisfactorily. 5" of race sag and 2" free sag isn't going to be the best performing suspension. If you never checked it, you wouldn't know!

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cfspawn
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Post by cfspawn »

Yes i must admit i havent ridden it yet on the trails for a proper test but putted around my backyards have noticed a big difference in a positive way will soon see
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bradf
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Post by bradf »

5-10mm change can be semi-significant and is a good tuning technique. I will run 100-105 sag if I will be in the deep sand all day. If I go to a harder soil area with tighter sections I run 95mm and it makes a difference to me.
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AZRickD
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Post by AZRickD »

5" of race sag and 2" free sag isn't going to be the best performing suspension.
I can vouch for that. My stock-suspended KDX had numbers eerily similar to the numbers you cited. I was wallowing. Way stabile, though.
:razz:

My static and race sag is set. I'm not anal enough to change it based on conditions since I'm usually unsure of what I'll be led into by the guys who know the trails.

Rick
I done KX-ed QuailChaser's KDX220R
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quailchaser
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Post by quailchaser »

Ha ha. Isn't that the truth Rick. Our terrain has not only what Bradf described, but add loose rocks on hard pack (and in sand, and in silt, and on rocks), wide open 100mph sand washes (deep, or shallow, with and without rocks), 10 mph tight sand wash (with rocks, without rocks, with whoops, without whoops)...and all this on one ride. :shock: However, we don't have many roots, mud, or trees. :roll:

You guys did a great job marking the course...it was easy to follow. Too bad you missed all the Rocks and hill climbs on our 1/2. :shock: Your section was fast and flowey (is that a word?) ours was more tight and technical. You'll have to pre run the whole thing on Friday...It's a blast! We started at the start :roll: I got 34 miles (have to take out about 9 miles for the MM11 road and running around) with an average speed of 18 mph and a max speed of 83 mph (not on the course :wink: --That hall road is fast).

Oh yea, this thread was about something else :oops: ...100mm (4") is the standard starting point for race sag. As has been suggested by others...+ or - 10mm may end up being a better setting, depending on riding style and terrain.
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