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I have an 04 KDX 220. Thinking of increasing the weight. I ride in the rocky, rooty, slippery northwest. Done some engine mods and want to make sure bike keeps great traction.

So what is the stock weight? What weight do you suggest?

Thanks for your time.

You never got an answer? I think I used at 10oz weight. I liked it, but after installing an auto clutch, I took it off and gave it to m0rie. The extra weight is apprecitated when you stall the bike. I swear I could stall the engine, grab the clutch and it would start back up on just the clutch drag. Much better than needing to kick start every stall. HA!!

skipro3 wrote:You never got an answer? I think I used at 10oz weight. I liked it, but after installing an auto clutch, I took it off and gave it to m0rie. The extra weight is apprecitated when you stall the bike. I swear I could stall the engine, grab the clutch and it would start back up on just the clutch drag. Much better than needing to kick start every stall. HA!!

This spot on for how the bike responds with the extra FFW.

Get a Steahly FWW. It screws into the existint flywheel..no welding or permanent fixing required.

He only has one weight for the KDX (used to anyway).

Newberg!! When you comin' down this way for a REAL ride?

I don't know the stock weight of the KDX flywheel. 'More' is better in this case. Especially for tight stuff..and the anomaly already noted (restarting from being dead) is nice!

Much better resistance to stall on downhills. No longer does a touch of brake in the wrong place kill your bike.

An often overlooked attribute to additional flywheel weight is the improved suspension action. Acceleration bumps, etc. are handled much more nicely if your engine maintains consistent rpms rather than harshly reloading the suspension due to excessive tire-spin when the tire is air-borne.
That is the main reason I put one (10 oz) on my 220, and it really helps going forward rather than swapping and hopping around. At least for a 220 with engine mods, it is a great improvement IMO.

Thanks for the info guys. I sent out carb for RB magic. Vforce 3 reeds. Rev pipe. Dropped front sprocket a tooth. Also did KXF 250 forks

I am going to ride the bike for a month or so - even the ice ever melts around here in the hills - then make the decision to get the stealthy weight. Or get an auto clutch . . .

Damn . . . I put a lot of money in this bike but it should be worth it. This site gives me too many ideas of mods.

Have a good weekend,

Steve

Steve, did you send the head out with the carby to Ron?

You'll love the improvements...they are a gas!

'Sent out..'?

Why not just DRIVE 'em over there?

As quick as Ron's turnaround time is (well, if he's not recouping from being gone) you could've had it all done easy in a couple of days.

Vote #2 for the head. The 220 heads are quite a load of inconsistancy (says Ron). It can be greatly improved performance-wise and still run on pump slop.

A BTW on the clutch...don't know about your 450, but you cannot keep the manual clutch with an auto on the KDX. You prolly knew that already. Put your rear brake control on the LH bar instead.........

Don't know if you have looked at both, but the KDX/KX autos that have been done 'round here are generally (if not all) EFM clutches. Used to be Rekluse didn't make a KDX auto. Maybe they do now. I think skipro was the first KDXer to get an EFM clutch..and a large part of the reason EFM did the KDX in the first place.

I think Garry at EFM also owns a KDX.

Yep, Head got the mod too!!!. RM was cheap $220 and turnaround was real fast. His place is really not too far from my location. Small world.

Bike should be put back together by tomorrow so I cant wait to give it a ride around the block.

The hills where I ride are still iced in . . .

The clutch I was considering was the EFM. From what I read it sounded like the best option. But I did not know you completely loose the clutch. On my rekluse, I still have that option.

Things to think about after riding the bike for awhile.

Thanks for all the great info.

Steve

RockyMountain?

You have that option with the Rekluse on your OTHER bike. If you had a Rekluse on the KDX (if there is one) IT wouldn't have the manual clutch, either.

The only bikes that keep the manual clutch are those that are actuated from the LH side of the bike...like the YZ..and probably like your WR.

Not only do you loose the manual override on the EFM autoclutch, but Garry modifies the basket and such that you can't go back either. (Not without buying a bunch of new parts anyway.) Not that it matters, I'd never own a dirt bike for long without going auto on the clutch. It really makes me a better rider and I can keep up with my riding friends.