KDXRIDER.NET

Dressing the seat is the wet/dry BLACK paper, following your instructions from before?

radonc73 wrote:Dressing the seat is the wet/dry BLACK paper, following your instructions from before?

That would be correct, yes.

Thank You.

Silicon carbide Sorry, couldn't resist...
I'm still checking your progress, radonc73
CC is a patient man

He is, more patience than I do part of the problem is my dealer SUCKS. He doesn't even look in back for parts, just orders them. I don't know if he doesn't ride, but he told me he had to order jets for my bike. If I didn't have to wait a week everytime I need something else I could be done. I called other dealersa bout 25 more minutes away and they have most of the parts I ordered Saturday. Not again!!! I will just drive there after work instead of at lunch.

Thanks! I was going to say 'silicon carbide'...but wasn't sure...and didn't have the patience to walk out to the garage to see what the stuff says.

Only the next day did I remember I keep a sheet of it under the sink to sand off the bottoms of ceramic cups'n-things that scratch up my counter.

I din't HAVE to walk out the garage!

Oh well.

Siicon carbide it is. I mean, if you say so.


...wonder what the lumen output of that stuff is...............

OK, I have everythong back togather. I am trying to set the float bowl level but when I look at the float bowl flange it seems way too bent. I just wanted to know if this is anywhere near right. I can see where it helps keep the float valve on while installing it but I can see where it might not let the correct amount of fuel into the bowl.


This is the best pic I can get.

Are you holding that carb horizonal when you are adjusting the float?

No, I went on DRN and it says
Setting them Parallel
tilt the carb until the tang on the float just makes contact with the needle rod protruding from the float valve.
It seems like my needle rod is always touching the tang.

There is a technique issue there. It's hard to explain BUT that diagram is not correct. The carb should be turned around the opposite way....

And just what are you doing on a forum site that hates KDX riders? Hmmmm?

that pic never made any sense to me

You be nice to my buddy tom! Remember Vince, the 250's are coming on strong!

I know... I know...

It was the site I found first, before I knew of this place. I didn't think they HATED KDXers I found a section on technical info for the KDX . When I do a search here alot of threads come up, more than I have the patience to look through, like 127 for float bowl leveling. Now that I know the pic is wrong I don't feel as bad. So how does one set the float bowl?

Here ya go....

Not to pick too small a nit here...but the first picture? If you think about just a bit it is very obviously wrong. What is the point of holding the carb at an angle anyway?

The point is to UNLOAD the spring pin in the needle. Envision that process in the first pic. You would rotate the carb clockwise? That will get you to a point that the floats drop hard OFF the needle as soon as they are overcenter.

Envision the process with the SECOND pic. You would rotate the carb counterclockwise! With the floats HANGING it is much easier to get the spring pin unloaded and NOT have the floats drop completely off.

Yeah...in neither pic does is say anything about WHICH way you might rotate the carb..but the starting postion infers that.

In any case....I don't do it that way!!! I hold the carb upside down and use a finger between the float and carb body to lift the float to the position that just touches the needle pin. That way there isn't any particular º to hold the thing while you measure (if that's your choice) the float drop.

I know from having done it a number of times that the mold line on the float is parallel to the carb body when the float drop is within spec. I generally run a little low (fuel level) anyway..about 18mm.

Make sure that BOTH floats are the same. Some riders change the float level by BENDING the floats. Indeed that is the prescribed method in some cases...but NOT THIS CASE. It's not too hard to have the two floats set differently if you get too ham fisted with it.

Also make sure the floats are ..well, plumb for lack of a better word. No contact with the bowl, not twisted, off-kilter or otherwise wonky.

To answer your question...in your pic the tang looks fine. Do be careful if adjustment is required. It is simply, merely, and ONLY the tang that gets bent in the process..and that with NO force applied to the needle spring pin..AND no force applied to the float arms.

A small screwdriver inserted from the main jet side can be used to move the tang 'up' (decrease the 16+/- measurement). You can lever against the float frame piece directly opposite the needle.

To move the tang oppositely, support the float frame at the same point, making sure you will NOT push on the needle pin, and apply pressure to the tang from the 'top'side. As the word 'opposite' implies...that movement will do.....what??? It will increase the 16+/- measurement.

Capiche?