KDXRIDER.NET

I put it on a tape measure to show the length of about 6.5 CM. The needle is a R1368H with the clip at top spot of 5

I was thinking, while I have the carb out should I do a rebuild? I don't see any leaks but is a rebuild something you should do periodically? If I do how difficult is it? I know it is said to do one thing at a time but I have the cap gasket on order, so if I need to do a rebuild I can order the parts.

A 'rebuild' is only a good as the cleaner you soak the thing in. There are no parts inside that you will benefit from replacement.

Looks like you do have an OEM Kaw needle. A google of the needle code gets:

kdxrider wrote:A quick check of the http://www.buykawasaki.com site shows stock jetting on a 1993 KDX250 to be 42 pilot, #5 throttle valve, R1368H needle and 165 main jet. ...

http://www.kdxrider.net/mobile/thread.p ... &&start=10

IMO...forget the needle for now. It appears to be the correct needle..good enough anyway.

I've asked some other KDX250 riders to check this thread with the primary issue being: Tank size/shape/type, carb entry type, cable routing.

Thanks for the link CC. I didn't want to hi-jack that thread also. I PMed Rick several times back and forth. His routing looks to be the same as mine. Same with the bulbous tank.

It would be helpful to know that other KDX250 riders HAVE responded..and what their pics show and all. The pic you just posted answers all the questions I asked that I didn't know already HAD been asked and answered.

So: It should be safe to say at this point that your throttle sticking problem is not related to:

1. Routing
2. Carb cap entry
3. Differently sized aftermarket tank
4. Incorrect needle
5. Damaged needle
6. Incorrectly assembled slide (nylon cable holder)


Got anything else to add? Or except?

When is the gasket due in? Howzabout that next?

It IS a good think knowing that YOU are the WOT-STICKY tester!! I wouldn't wanna do it.

I have learned that my asshole can grip my seat very well when it sticks. I have a large open area at the local sand pit to try to get it to stick. I always make sure my thumb is on the kill button. I assume the part will be in this week and maybe Sat or Sun I will test it. I really don't know what else it could be but I hope it was the gasket. There is only one way to tell, and that isn't much fun if it isn't the gasket.

There is one more thing to check for... galling.

When you have a old carb or one that has seen some dirt in it's day, there is a very good likelyhood that the slide and/or body has wear that will stick the two pieces together.

If you have ever seen an old Amal carb you know what I am talking about.

these pieces are normally polished fairly well, but over time they will wear and if there is any dirt introduced to the carb, the surfaces will develop scratches. When these scratches line up just right... the carb will stick.

Something to check for. If you find this to be true... come back here and let us know and we will take it from there.

Wasn't that covered..sorta?

Radon..you had the slide out. You will have it out again when you repace that gasket, too.

ANY striations (scratches sorta), metal transfer from the slide to the carb body? The PWK is plated (I think)..at the least polished very well. It's not too hard to tell if something has been rubbing.

Let us know what you find out.

When you put the cap back on with the new gasket, don't squeeze the pee-wah out of it! The cap doesn't have to be hammer-tight. Good-n snug is plenty...and that with your fingers.

It was covered in a vague way... I wanted to put a name to it and go into a little more detail. Can never have too many details...

I can tell you from memory that it is not a mirror smooth looking finish. I didn't see or feel any difference on the slide, pitting or what not. It feels smooth. I will recheck after work.

I looked at my slide again and saw some wear on the inside of the carb I can see where it rubbed. I don't know how I missed it before, now I cann't unsee it. Looks like I will be going to Ace tomorrow for some emory cloth. Any suggestions on what grit?

NO!

That's why I wanted you to come back here after you checked. You do not want to take any metal off of that slide. Use Mother's metal polish and use it sparingly. If you start taking metal off... you will start getting air leaks and there is no going back....

OK, what should I do with the inside of the carb? Just use enough polish to get rid of the scratches on the slide, or do I polish the whole thing? I will get the polish tomorrow. I assume you mean the billet polish.

I'd try some 1k, 1500, 2k silicone carbide paper. 1 sheet of each and you'll probably only use a small peice of each. I don't know how hard the slide metal is but the 1k should be a good start. A small bowl of water with a dab of soap. Some jewelers rouge (like eagle one mag polish) to finish it out after and you'll have the "bling bling" slide
Almost too pretty to put back in your carb.
Probably not neccessary to do but would cancel it as a possible cause.

Like stated above, you don't want to remove metal just smooth it.


Sorry for budding in. Just came over to catch up on my 250 research

Not a problem, we need as many 250 heads as possible. I am still learning as much as I can about them also. Its not a KX and really not a KDX 200 with a bigger motor. I am ordering a service book since Santa didn't bring one.

It doesn't have to be polished exactly... just want to get any scratches out. Mother's is a Mag polish... any of those should polish it well....

This is what galling looks like....

Ok, I will get the mag poslish tomorrow, I really think I am making headway with this. I assume the polish will make the surface smoother or at least waxed to lower the chances of it sticking, getting the cap gasket soon I hope. Do I polish the inside of the carb also or just leave it alone to prevent too much build up of the polish? I am just trying to understand why I am doing the things I do or don't do for future reference. I have those horizontal lines going across my slide pretty much the entire slide so I thought that was the way the slide always looked. I am pretty sure you are talking about the vertical lines, about galling or can it be either?

The vertical lines are the ones you are worried about. Just smooth them out... don't get too crazy. Check both the slide and the carb body for these lines and smooth them out.

OK, I will post the results of my polishing tomorrow. Getting closer everyday.