KDX 250 throttle compatability

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radonc73
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Post by radonc73 »

I have polished the slide and the inside of the carb. THe more polishing I did the more scratches came up but I polished them out. I am still waiting on the cap gasket. I looked inside at my jets. I have a 165 main and have a question. THe jet inside the tube, do I use a screwdriver or how do I take it out? I was going to use a screwdriver but the blades were all too fat or didn't seat right. I will start to put it back togather when I get the gasket in and probably take it out for testing in a week or so. but would like to know what I have in it first. I may get a leaner main one of the KDX 250 sites said to use a 155 to 158 I believe. I may pick one or both up when I get my gasket, if they have any on hand.
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Post by tha_reids »

radonc73,
I don't know your elevation and such but you should probably want a 160 and 158 for jetting purposes. Also the stock pilot is 42 but I dropped down straight to a 38 but it would be nice to have a 40 also. If you have stock jetting...I bet your can and pipe is just drowning in spooge! Mine was. Repack your can and lean out your jetting and It should be the cheapest performance upgrade you'll ever perform on your bike.

Fixing the throttle issue priority #1 of coarse :wink:
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Post by radonc73 »

Ya, the throttle has been going on and off for a couple of years but until I found this site I had no idea what to do next, there are some great people here!! I hope to take the bike on a test run this weekend or next. I will lean the jet a little. Have you found the site garage,whatburns.com/kdx2 it is informative I went by that for a little while until I found this place, he has some ideas specificly for the 250.
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Post by tha_reids »

Yes its one of the first pages I found.
I'll probably throw the 90-91 mx rear on my bike next. Been doing the research.
After that I'll concentrate on suspension. My next priority.
Good luck!
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Post by radonc73 »

I looked this morning and saw more scratches. I have been trying to polish them out but they wont come out. By the time I tryed to polish the scratches out the slide is almost mirror-like except for the scratches. It is slicker than chickenshit on a linoleum floor. The inside of my carb on the part that faces the slide I polished it and now I notice that there is a line horizontally that wont polish out down the throat of the carb a few CMs, I will measure when I get home. It doesn't seem to interfere with anything, as it is very slick in there also, if anything it looks like it belongs there but this is my first carb teardown so I am not sure.
Thank you :oops:
Tom
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Post by Indawoods »

Don't over examine the scratches... as long as they are not protruding ... they shouldn't be an issue.
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Post by radonc73 »

OK thanks. I will be testing soon. I am confident this will work!! I appreciate the help Inda, you too CC. :prayer:
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Post by canyncarvr »

If your sticking is coming from interference in the carb, you should be able to see the after effects. Nothing in your pics show anything of the sort.

It's the galling part (metal transfer..as in Inda's pic) that would be the giveaway.

A carb that has worked 'together' with the parts it came with is one thing...if parts have been swapped and/or changed around (slide from one carb in the body of another), that could likely cause some trouble because the parts haven't mated well.

It does seem you are getting a bit carried away for no particular reason. Like Inda said...don't get crazy about it.

Example: Mikuni VM26s come with a plated slide. Some kind'a teflon sort'a junk. The chances of it NOT wearing off are about zero..and it doesn't take long at all. If you took one of them apart to see shiny parts showing through the coating you might think, 'This is shot!'

But a carb with just a handful of hours on it would look the same way!

You stand a far better chance of causing a problem with the grind/polish/sand approach than you do fixing anything if you are not working on a particular problem for a known reason.

Where's that gasket??

If you're looking for something to do...take the throttle tube off the bike. Make sure it is VERY clean..maybe put it back together with a bit of silicon or teflon spray. Let it dry before you put it back together.

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Post by radonc73 »

I took the throttle tube off, it was dirty to say the least. THere was alot of dust-like build up. I cleaned it and am going looking for teflon spray tomorrow. STILL don't have the gasket. It has to do with me I think. My manual supplement I got off of Ebay the USPS has listed as Missent for the past 4 days, missent to where? Sorry back to the throttle, anywhere else I should look? It seems everywhere you mention has a problem, er had a problem.
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Post by radonc73 »

I put it all back togather today. I will hopefully be testing in a few days. I have to see how the weekend goes. I put a 160 jet in while I was at it. I know to do only 1 circut at a time but didn't want to have to pull the carb off again. I have learned alot during this last week or 2. I appreciate the help from everyone. Mostly thanks to CC and Inda. Hopefully this will be the last post as I truely think this problem is behind me.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Throttle tubes generally have that 'dust' stuff in them from all the chafing going on there betwixt the nylon tube and the metal bar.

Your LAST post has to be: 'Last two rides...rode all day...not a stick in the bunch! Now I'm WOT only when I WANT to be!!'


...or something like that.

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Post by radonc73 »

Image

This may be a stupid question but is the rectangular piece at the bottom of this picture concidered the Float Valve Clip. While reassembling my carb I checked the float angle when I changed the main jet. When I turned the carb upside down the float valve fell out. I found what I think is all of the pieces but while obsessing about this I was looking at the Kawi site I saw a terrible drawing of what I hope is the clip but it was seperate from the valve. I have the valve hanging on the tang by this part. I just want to know if I have this correct before I take it for a short ride. The bike starts but The real test will have to wait as all my DB money went into my Jimmy for front wheel bearings that require an entire new hub!! :shock: So what I thought would be a 25 doller fix is costing me $150. I am not happy.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Re: 'is the rectangular piece at the bottom of this picture concidered the Float Valve Clip.'

Yes.

Re: 'When I turned the carb upside down the float valve fell out.'

You probably mean right side up? Turning the carb upside down and having the float needle fall out means it was OUT in the first place.

Re: 'I have the valve hanging on the tang by this part.'

That is correct. That is how the floats PULL the valve down. If the valve just SAT on the tang, when the floats dropped, only the weight of the valve would be UNseating it and allowing fuel to flow.


You know....all this talk of sticking throttle....

I have assumed the throttle IS sticking! Is it possible you are experiencing a lean condition (hi revs) because the needle is sticking in the needle valve? There is considerably difference between 'throttle stick' and a 'lean over-rev'. I have assumed you know the difference.

1. Is your needle tip damaged?

2. Do you know how to clean the needle SEAT (the part INside the carb)?

IF your needle is at ALL damaged, replace it. Heck...replace it anyway.

CLEAN the needle seat:

Floats/needle off the carb. Use a thin strip of wet-n-dry sandpaper..400 grit to start is OK. Drape the strip of paper OVER the head of a Q-Tip. MOISTEN the thing with alcohol. While holding the strip of paper and the Q-Tip shaft do a back and forth rotation with light pressure on the needle seat (up in the hole the needle sits in).

Not a lot of pressure, not a lot of strokes, don't do it dry.

Repeat with a 600 grit strip.

Repeat with a CLEAN Q-Tip moistened with alcohol.

Do NOT force a too big tip into the hole. If the Q-Tips you are using (that is a brand name..any cotton swab will do) have such a fat head that they do not easily fit into the needle hole, pull off some cotton.

Do not leave any cotton strands in there.....blow the thing out with Braklene from the INSIDE (spray down the fuel inlet).

Any questions?

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Post by radonc73 »

I have assumed the throttle IS sticking! Is it possible you are experiencing a lean condition (hi revs) because the needle is sticking in the needle valve? There is considerably difference between 'throttle stick' and a 'lean over-rev'. I have assumed you know the difference.


Now that I think about it, the revs would shoot up when I turned the throttle to wide open, that is why I think the throttle is sticking. I have ran out of gas and know the rev you are talking about and it does sound like that. I assume that the revs kept up b/c the throttle was sticking and they would naturally climb until the cable stopped "pulling" or what ever was causing it to stick would be satisfied. I have considered that there was an air leak but I have looked at the intake boot, replaced the reeds, and when I found out the cap gasket was missing I thought that may have been an air leak.
I will take the carb off tomorrow and give a report. I didn't clean anything inside the carb, just sprayed carb cleaner through the jets, after the valve came off I put it back togather and left it alone.
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Post by Indawoods »

Have you tested the dang thing yet???
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Post by canyncarvr »

I heard you the first time! :wink:

OK...so you are familiar with the lean-out over-rev thing. The bike may rev, but there isn't any power to go along with it. Well...not the power there is/would be if the throttle was wide open and fuel was being delivered properly.

Re: 'I have ran out of gas and know the rev you are talking about and it does sound like that'

Try to determine if 'sound like that' means it IS that.

The reason it would happen when you were at WOT could be because THAT is when the most fuel is needed.

So...you wick it open..the bike NEEDS fuel..but doesn't get it because the float needle is stuck in the float needle seat.

IF you still have the problem after the gasket is installed...DO get a new float needle, DO clean the needle seat as described.

Get this thing taken care of!! We're four pages into it already!! :shock:

Ride safe.

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Post by radonc73 »

>|<>QBB<
Indawoods wrote:Have you tested the dang thing yet???
I have started it but not taken it for a ride. I wanted to make sure it started to see if I put it togather well enough to start but wanted a second opinion before I took it out with a missing piece. I didn't keep it running long as my wife complains that I want to smother her and the dog. She works tomorrow and if I have time after fixing my front end I will remove the carb and check CC stuff then put it together and take if for a ride, if all is well.
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Post by canyncarvr »

To make it very clear...use wet-n-dry paper...the black stuff. Do NOT use one-each brown stuff. THAT will leave a big mess!

Sorry. I'm not up on the correct names of the different oxides.

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Post by radonc73 »

I ordered the float valve on Sat.. I am currently looking for another dealer. They have NOTHING on stock. They claim to be a Kawi dealer but seem to be mostly stocked with Yamaha bikes. I talked to some people and they don't recommend my place at all. It is nice to be able to run out at lunch and get ordered parts but will find a more Kawi centered dealership a few towns away that may have the parts on hand.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Don't put the new valve in without dressing the seat. Do both at the same time and you will have much better result. Replacing the valve without dressing the seat has an excellent chance of being a waste of time.

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