Old style KDX fork questiojn

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Old style KDX fork questiojn

Postby yzfoot » 08:26 pm Dec 13 2006

These forks are on my KX ice bike so I don't have a KDX manual and need some help separating the inner & outer pieces. I think they are 89's or so. I removed the adjuster from the bottom of the forks and removed the inner piston & springs & washers. It seems like the inner (upper) tube should now slide out but no go. Something at the bottom of the inner tube stops it from sliding thru the bushing/seal/dust seal(clip
removed) at the top of the lower tube. I'm betting someone here knows
the secret. I really just need to change the seal and might be able
to without separating the tubes but I'd rather pull it all apart.
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Postby Indawoods » 09:12 pm Dec 13 2006

There is a inner clip (part number 92033 in the photo) holding the tube and the lowers together. You must remove the clip and it should slide apart by grabbing each end and pulling them apart like a slide hammer.

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Postby yzfoot » 10:44 pm Dec 13 2006

That clip is out. I've banged it pretty good, slide hammer style. The dust seal hasn't moved. I'll go try it again. Are you sure ?
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Postby Indawoods » 10:56 pm Dec 13 2006

Yep... I'm sure... Keep at it.... some old stuff your messing with there...
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Postby canyncarvr » 11:04 pm Dec 13 2006

If the clip is out, the tubes will come apart..base valve in or not. Having the innards out does make it easier.

It may take more'n a few pretty good bangs.

The problem: If they don't come apart fairly easily you will damage the sliders (bushings..like 92028 on the diagram). There are two, an inner and an outer. The other is 44018 on the diagram.

The prescribed method is more short, repetitive taps than big bangs.

Neither method was succesful when I replaced my seals. By the time they came apart the bushing coating was pretty well mangled. I'd purchased bushings and was going to replace them anyway, so that wasn't any huge loss. And I was doing it on a bike that was only a couple of years old!

They (the bushings) aren't cheap!

I'm sure you could pry out the seals without taking the tubes apart. The chances of further damage doing that I would imagine would be pretty darn good.

But, yes. They will come apart as Inda described.

Good luck!

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Postby yzfoot » 11:21 pm Dec 13 2006

Yep, got it ! You guys know what you're talking about. Glad I came here. Now I'll have to take a goog look at the bushings. At first glance they look OK. I hope we don't get ice before I can gert them back together. Thanks again.

al
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Postby Mr. Wibbens » 11:25 pm Dec 13 2006

>|<>QBB<
canyncarvr wrote:If the clip is out, the tubes will come apart..base valve in or not. Having the innards out does make it easier.



in or out? Always lose me on that part. Mine would not come apart with the base valve IN I even took them to a shop, and they could not do it without the right tool. But once I had the tool and pulled the bv out they came aprt like they are sposed too
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Postby canyncarvr » 11:48 pm Dec 13 2006

You are probably correct. I've not tried to separate the tubes with the base valve in. I was considering having the TOP of the cartridge taken apart..cap, spacers, spring and stuff.

With the cart detached from what's holding IT in (the base valve), that won't do it? Well, I guess you're telling me that!

Another assumption gone awry!!

I never said I knew what I was talking about........ :wink:

Well, not on this thread.

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Postby IdahoCharley » 12:17 am Dec 14 2006

I'll just mention that on almost any forks if you heat-up the outside of the fork tube in the area of where the seal is seated; the tube will release the seal easier. (I pull the dust seal first)

I wipe off any oil on the exterior of the tube and then use a propane torch (a heat gun would work also just need to bump the temperature to 175-200 degrees or so) and heat the tube area for maybe one minute rotating the tube in an attempt to get it uniformly heated in this area. If the tube your heating starts smoking the oil residue inside the tube your too hot: Normally two or three quick short snaps should separate the oil seal for the fork tube.

(The older fork seals sometimes have a bare metal shell and seem to be seated/sealed in with an unknown product which is similar to heavy paint when dried. The newer ones have a rubberized outer metal shell and while they may not corrode, the oil seals are still easier to remove after the tube area has been heated.)
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