Tank mounting insert spinning...Help!

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Tank mounting insert spinning...Help!

Postby sjp » 11:12 am Dec 11 2006

Just picked up an '02, just started tearing it down for a rebuild and got no farther than the tank, not good!
It seems the insert in the plastic for the tank mount is spinning in the plastic. When I turn the bolt it feels like it's all turning. My first reaction
is to remove the radiator, to get a better angle, and hacksaw the bolt off on the backside of the mounting bracket. If I cut close to the bracket I'll have to replace the grommet, but it may leave a stub to visegrip on after the tank comes off.
I do realize first reactions sometimes are not good...
Therefore, I sat and looked at it quite a while and than turned out the lights.

And now I am looking to the masses for advice.
Come on Kawboys, give it up!
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Postby Indawoods » 11:47 am Dec 11 2006

You can try to wedge something behind the shroud and the insert while trying to back it out... this will give you some extra leverage. Sometime getting an angle on the screw helps also while using the wedge method.
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Postby KDXer » 11:48 am Dec 11 2006

I used a blunt drill bit on the bolt, it heated it all up enough to pull the insert out of the tank. I then was able to get the bolt out and reglued the insert back in. Probably not the best way to do it but it was effective.
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Postby sjp » 01:45 pm Dec 11 2006

Hey KDXer...

Just trying to clarify...
With the tank still bolted to the bike you created enough heat through the bolt, through the brass insert to soften the plastic.
And then by pulling on the bolt, the insert and grommet all came through the frame tab?

By looking at the other side, it does look possible.

Thanks,
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Postby canyncarvr » 07:55 pm Dec 11 2006

It's trouble, for sure.

Gas tank plastic does breath..and therefore are resistant to a lot of adhesives. I've tried several in another similar situation, have yet to find one that does STICK over time.

Whatever it is you DO use, use at least anti-seize on the bolt when you put it together, even a threadlocker is better than nothing. Yeah, a threadlocker will increase the amount of pressure required to take it off next time, but it won't get as stuck as using nothing.

My choice is anti-seize.

I marked the head of the bolt so I don't have to remember WHICH bolt to be careful with 'next time'.

Good luck!

Oh..it's easy to x-thread those inserts, too...them being brass. It doesn't help that the shrouds (for one) generally don't line up real well.

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Postby bradf » 08:00 pm Dec 11 2006

Would it be possible to use that ski repair stick that melts and drips into the scratches? Ski? CC? any of you snow types?
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Postby GS » 08:12 pm Dec 11 2006

Sounds like a job for "GOOP" glue? Can't believe how well it sticks to plastic...jet ski rub rail re-attached...still going strong a year later, despite LOTS of abuse. Fixed my Hondaline plastic saddlebags with HUGE cracks...100% as strong as before(it shrinks, so I used lots)

Takes a few days before you want to lean on it though...longer you wait, better it will be. Use lots...warm part up just a bit(slightly warm to the touch)...glue should be feelin a little warm also. Don't know if there is a problem with gasoline and you better have everything ready to go when the top comes off the glue. Use latex glove(s) and DON'T GET IT ON YOUR SKIN, cause it'll be there forever. One last thingie....good ventilation is important with that stuff.
You should CK first on the gasoline thing, though I'd likely try it unless it specifically says NO WAY

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Postby KDXer » 11:15 pm Dec 11 2006

>|<>QBB<
sjp wrote:Hey KDXer...

Just trying to clarify...
With the tank still bolted to the bike you created enough heat through the bolt, through the brass insert to soften the plastic.
And then by pulling on the bolt, the insert and grommet all came through the frame tab?

By looking at the other side, it does look possible.

Thanks,


Thats exactly right....


I just used 2 part Aryldite and its still in there years later.
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Postby Mr. Wibbens » 12:19 am Dec 12 2006

Goop is some amazing stuff, and don't matter which kind you use; Plumbers Goop, Marine Goop etc...

It's all the same stuff, just a marketing strategy that saved the company
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Postby GS » 01:46 am Dec 12 2006

GOOP, comes in all manner of labelled, suggested uses....even "Shoe" GOOP. I've seen 5 or 6 label types..each from the same vat of sticky...and I do mean sticky stuff. But it sticks to seemingly anything thats clean.
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Postby sjp » 02:37 pm Dec 16 2006

Alright, the brass insert is out and the tank is off the bike.

KDXer had the right idea, but the brass piece(which is square) will not come throught the frame tab.

I actually ripped out the black rubber grommet with needle nose pliers and held a soldering iron against the metal sleeve that is inside the grommet to heat the plastic.

When it did come out I was able to lift the tank out and than unscrew the insert.

The bitch is that it was not crossed threaded but instead the previous owner must have lost he bolt and used a longer one.

The longer bolt actually bottomed out in the insert and tightened itself to the insert.

I will try to follow the repair tips, I'm thinking of using a 2 part epoxy called Devcon. Used it on other parts and it may work on this.

Thanks for the tips.
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Postby kawagumby » 03:54 pm Dec 16 2006

I just bought an 01 220. The previous owner was an idiot and did the same - jammed a long bolt in and locked it up until it rotated - this was the back shroud bolt in my case.
I ended up drilling out the bolt head so I could get the shroud off, then drilled further to remove the remnants. Even with an easy-out I couldn't get the rest out so I ended up drilling larger and then rethreading it. Unfortunately, even though I used JB weld to hold it, it still would rotate, but since the location was the rear shroud bolt, I just drilled the shroud so I could zip tie it to the frame tube.

Some people should not own machines - this thing still had the original tires on it but was grossly corroded on one side from power washing without rinsing, the loose sparkplug gasket wasn't even squashed and spooge had been blowing out the top, the throttle cable was jammed between the tank and the frame and would stick wide open, the clutch cable was aready shot from a huge kink they somehow managed to put in it, the idle screw was turned all the way in, in an attempt to get it runnng (it didn't), and worst of all the dang air filter was misalligned and dirt had gotten past it. Even the gas cap was broken.

I completely tore down this low-time bike like it was a clunker (lucked out the cylinder was still in good shape). What a drag...but now it rips! Thank heavens they couldn't get it running so they could do more damage. :shock:

This was really a nail-biter, should I buy this or not? Gulp. But I really wanted a 220 - I'm glad I did now. I feel like I rescued it. :supz:
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Postby GS » 04:49 pm Dec 16 2006

Well, you did rescue it.

Now the two of you can go off on one adventure after another.
Worthwhile, I would say :supz:

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