KDXRIDER.NET

Anyone running a DEJ in an RB carb? (oem PWK or AirStriker)

...or anyone tried one?

What needle profile are you running now CC? I KINDA get how the profiles work but have yet to mess with them. I know I should but kinda afraid I would end up with a totally improper needle.

If it don't work, replace it with something else!

I'm running a DEK/4 right now. It runs fine..but..(there's always a but?)..I sure would like to get my clean 4-stroke-looking silencer snout back! Since the cylinder was ported I cannot get rid of the drips. Said drips btw NOT being related to a too rich jet-set. I've been around that horn-a-plenty. The spooge has gone down as the jet-set got richer. I've 'splained all that before.

Anyway..a 'J' being slightly richer in the lower throttle ranges, I was just curious if anyone had maybe run them both (K and J) and had an opinion.

I've run 'A's to 'E's on º, 'J's to 'M's on diameters and L1s varying by a handful of mm at every clip.

I haven't used my #6-TV for awhile. Maybe it's time to give it another go. ...it's never worked well before!

Just jump in and start swapping stuff around! You can always make things worse!

...wait..that's not right...........;)

Hey cc I was just wondering, have you ever tried running different oils to see if that effects your wierd drippy problem. Oh and I'm going to buy a couple of needles to do some tinkering with what would you guys suggest as a good starting point.

No, I haven't tried different oils.

Seeing as the bike was perfect prior to porting..same oil, same gasoline I have no reason to suspect the oil as part of the problem.

Besides, the bike runs better on the oil I use than it ever did on several other oils I 'tested' in the past. I'll stick with it.

BTW, I use Maxima SuperM @ 40:1.

CC... I suspect the porting is to blame for the dripping... as in less velocity due to less material. I bet your drip problem would be worse with a torque pipe.

I could argue that less velocity would cause less dropout of heavier (oil) globules. But, yeah..maybe a combination of abrubtly different/changing air/fuel 'speeds' due to port tuning that causes dropout in some ranges, then the pooled stuff being picked up when the 'tune' hits.

Which is to say...I have no idea.

I know the S/A tip was clean as a whistle before. It really did look like a 4-stroke. Dry as a bone. I do have a bit of a clue how to jet...I sure don't get this one.

I've pretty much quit worrying about it. It does run real well.

FWIW:
I too run that oil and ratio. I was dry as a bone with my last jetting but then I needed to rejet for the conditions and raised the needle 2 clips; from leanest (5) to the middle clip positon(3). Lean low speed bog (1/8 - 1/4 throttle) went away but spooges now. Not bad, just a drool after 20 miles or so. I may adjust the clip back down one to see what that does for performance and drooling, or I might drop the main by one size and leave the needle alone.
(Most probably, I'll just wipe it's little chin before anyone notices and enjoy the fact that the bike runs much better this way)

I guess what I'm saying is, my spooge is related to my going a bit richer on the needle and it is "normal" to expect it might do that. Your situation isn't normal. This isn't something you can just check from run to run because spooge can hang out in the pipe and pool up between rides, and it can saturate the S/A packing. Other than flushing out the exhaust system and KIPS chambers after each jetting change and before testing, I'm not sure there is a speedy way to see if the spooge problem is resolved between rejets.

****EDIT****
How about adding a "spit valve" to the pipe like on a trumpet? drill a hole and braze one on, then, during tests, stick a filter up, into the pipe (a Q-tip type device) and check for comparison. Place it after the header and just before the expansion chamber. Comparing the stain it will collect between jetting changes could determine how much spooge would be generated.
(I'm serious, but only if you think I'm serious. If you are laughing at me, then this was just a joke. )

What about the CEK? I thought that was a pretty good profile....

That's what I'm running but CC convinced me to also get a DEK. I just haven't tried it yet. He inferred that it would make the power more linear; kind of like the second sweet spot on the A/S. Is that right CC?
Instead, I modified my throttle tube and cut the slot a bit deeper and changed where the WOT stop was. This modification makes the throttle about a 1/2 turn throttle instead of the (about) 1/4 turn that stock is. By doing this, my throttle is less twitchy than before.

I haven't used my #6-TV for awhile. Maybe it's time to give it another go

Might be on to something there....Give it a go...Of course (as you know) that'll require extensive testing before you can figure out whether it helped or not, but you seem to be hankering to fiddle

Don't you have a #7 in now? I thought a 6 would be richer. Maybe I've got that reversed.

You have got it right, skipro3. The smaller the number slide, the richer it is. Sudco shows 0 (zero) as the richest, as per their chart:

0
3.0
4.0
5.0
6.0
7.0
8.5
9.5

9.5 is the leanest.

I hope this helps.

Yes I have a #7TV in now. I will try the #6 (richer) to make it spooge less.

That's 'cuz I found (after porting) that I had more spooge the more lean I went....to the point of sticking the thing.

I have changed the packing in my S/A every couple rides (and jet changes) to lessen the 'pooling' idea.

My throttle is too 'long' as it is. I have to pay attention, else I find myself thinking I'm at 'WOT' when only about 3/4. It's much easier to keep up with a certain 250X when the throttle is really all the way open. Had a lot of fun doing that this past Sunday! Life is good when I can throw lots'a rocks at a brand new $6000 Honda!! He asked if his taillight was working....then (darn! I didn't think of it first) he said, 'How would you know. You haven't been behind me!' Now...that wasn't exactly TRUE...but it was funny, anyway.

I found the CEK to be just too much of a handful. Hits like a ton of bricks! Fun for awhile...but a 70 mile ride would completely wear me out. It's a circuit transistion thing. The DEK is richer-later because the taper (steeper) starts further down the needle. The bottom end works better with a (resultant) leaner-longer (straight-further?) of the D angle needle. IMO and all that stuff.

I don't think a q-tip type device would survive. The hole would have to be plugged when not 'used.' Altogether one more thing to do that I'd have to put on the list of things I already DON'T do.

Besides...you weren't serious anyway!

Ha!! Too much beer behind that idea. Anyway, look for a post soon about the China Hat ISDE. Doug and I are signing up!

China Hat? You will be driving right past the State of Jefferson!

If you want to take an extra day (or two) to ride 'round here...speak up!

I don't know when the China Hat runs. I'll ask Mr. Google.

Cool....Let us know how the #6/rejet works out...