kill switch blues

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kill switch blues

Postby krazyinski » 09:24 am Dec 07 2006

first off this is general discussion or happenings and I have no specific data. I am a stay at home dad with three boys 5,3,2 so my day is not fill with lots of blank time to ohm things an get exacts I am interrupted my children or wife every 10 minutes.

THE MAIN point

In the past few months I was having intermittent problems with the kill switch working.
then on the last ride the bike started to run very rich.

yesterday after a four hour drive to ride some 60 miles of single track I pulled trusty kdx out and she would not start. fouled plug, no big deal put in a new plug, no start, pulled new plug and it was wet.

ok cleaned and dried the plugs check spark and bang there was enough spark there to give a good jolt or light a fire with from appearances any way.

next I pulled the carb off checked float and jets every thing was good,clean and clear.

years of process analysis and diagnostic kicked in after I settled down and logic said kill switch is it.
so I unplugged the switch and bang she fired on half a kick. ran all day 60 miles good as new.

I will or plan to pull the switch apart and clean the contact areas . my thinking is that crud has built up in the switch allowing some conductivity while the switch is open or in the run position.

what circuit does the kill switch kill ?

is it feasible that you would get some spark with the kill switch activated?

I am thinking there was enough to show but not enough to run with before fouling the plug.
2000 KDX220 FRP Ported,plated cylinder,milled head, FRP bored carb, V force 3 reeds, FMF desert pipe, 10oz FWW, 98 KX forks and oem shock re valved by Pro Action, hyd clutch, fastway pegs, tall seat foam, gripper cover, 29" CRhigh mini bars, Cycra brush gaurds.
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Postby KDXer » 10:54 am Dec 07 2006

Maybe of some help regarding how the circuit works.

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ill+switch
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Postby canyncarvr » 09:46 pm Dec 07 2006

Re: 'what circuit does the kill switch kill ?'

The spark circuit?

It's connected to the input of the spark box..grounds the input TO the spark box to gnd. (ganud?)

**edit**
OK...so it's not the input...it's the OUTput of the SCR that fires the coil..AND the input.

You say 'inputt' I say 'outputt'...Let's not call the whole thing off!

Result: No spark.


This schiz is from Jaquar:

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How's that?

How about just getting a new one?

KayDee..
Looking back at that thread, I don't see a resolution?

So...what was it?

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Postby KDXer » 06:30 am Dec 08 2006

Hehe the easiest solution was to relocate my kill switch a bit further away so I didn't knock it while bouncing around. If I ever do find a 'momentary contact switch that is push-to-break contact' I will buy it. Oh I got a new Flukey too, well not a Flukey brand but it'll work. I'll check the switch this weekend and report my findings, thanks for your interest. ;)
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Postby canyncarvr » 09:32 am Dec 08 2006

Fine...but...from the other discussion I thought your kill switch WAS momentary CONTACT..push to make.

Is that correct or incorrect?

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Postby KDXer » 09:49 am Dec 08 2006

The stock one is an ON/OFF type, the one I bought to replace it worked like so. I connected a battery and light on the new switch and the light only works once the button is pressed.

I gave the switch to my mate for his KX to replace a broken one, it worked fine. :?
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Postby stringburner » 09:52 am Dec 08 2006

I was of a mind all oem Kawasaki kill switches were momentary.
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Postby KDXer » 10:03 am Dec 08 2006

I think due to the fact that our H models are registerable for road use they have this kind of switch to prevent theft. I also had a switch block for the horn, HI/LO beams and indicators. I had a roll pin locking my steering stem in as well as a steering lock. I think these are all little things added to the Australian market KDX's.
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Postby canyncarvr » 10:29 am Dec 08 2006

Re: 'I connected a battery and light on the new switch and the light only works once the button is pressed.'

Then the battery only works once the button is pressed, too?

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Postby KDXer » 10:33 am Dec 08 2006

>|<>QBB<
canyncarvr wrote:Then the battery only works once the button is pressed, too?


:shock: What you talkin' bout Willis ?!? :rolleyes:
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Postby canyncarvr » 05:57 pm Dec 08 2006

Is English really that complicated? Evidently.

The stock one is an ON/OFF type, the one I bought to replace it worked like so.


..That maybe is supposed to be a colon (:) and not a period. I can only guess.

ON/OFF doesn't say much about the type of switch. From other statements you made I got the idea it was a rocker type switch, probably SPST (a two position switch with two leads..moving the switch either connects the two or disconnects the two), maybe DPST (same except there are four leads..moving the switch connects/disconnects two different sources to two different loads). You did mention three leads once..but that doesn't fit with the SPST scenario unless one lead is connected to two different places. Maybe as a safety thing..connected to ground TWICE so if one gets bad, the bike will still quit when the button is pressed.

But then:
I connected a battery and light on the new switch and the light only works once the button is pressed.


Don't know what sort of switch it is..but I could guess if it is a SPST you have the battery on one lead, the light on the other, so operating the switch connects the battery to the light or DISconnects the battery from the light.

Another but...you said you conneced a battery AND a light. That might mean several things. The compound subject nature of the sentence could well mean, because the nouns are TOGETHER that you connected them TOGETHER. That's quite unlikely...well, unless you used a DPST, in which case they could have been connected TOGETHER..both as SOURCES. Maybe both leads were switched to a regulator loop?

'He and she went somewhere.'

That would generally mean the he and the she went to the same 'where'. Doesn't HAVE to, but that is the most simple understanding.

MAYBE you connected a battery TO a light THROUGH a switch? There's a simple statement that is perfectly understandable..in fact cannot BE reasonably taken to mean more than one thing.

But you didn't say that...........

NONE of which has ANYthing to do with the kill switch, which was the subject of conversation in the first place!!

Furthermore:
If I ever do find a 'momentary contact switch that is push-to-break contact' I will buy it.
certainly means that is the kind you think you NEED to have?

I don't know that either. I doubt it is the type you need..as string said. Maybe you do.


Oh well. In the end, no question was answered and no further information is to be had. It seems you have a light that works..but you have no kill switch..but then, why would moving it matter?

:hmm:

I'm seeing a lot of wrinkles in your duct tape........... :cry:

PLEASE!! This issue having gone on for some time AND a lot of words...I'm well past being capable of understanding anything about it..so no reply is necessary. I'll just chalk this up to one more distorted point of view I evidently have...as are most my points of view about most things. At least, that's my understanding based on WHAT my understanding is of what I've been told.

Simple, 'eh? :wink:

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Postby KDXer » 09:59 pm Dec 08 2006

>|<>QBB<
canyncarvr wrote:Is English really that complicated? Evidently.


It can be at 4am. :wink:

canyncarvr wrote:ON/OFF doesn't say much about the type of switch. From other statements you made I got the idea it was a rocker type switch, probably SPST (a two position switch with two leads..moving the switch either connects the two or disconnects the two.


That's what it is.

canyncarvr wrote:You did mention three leads once..but


My bad only 2 wires.

canyncarvr wrote:Don't know what sort of switch it is..but I could guess if it is a SPST you have the battery on one lead, the light on the other, so operating the switch connects the battery to the light or DISconnects the battery from the light.


Thats it.

canyncarvr wrote:MAYBE you connected a battery TO a light THROUGH a switch? There's a simple statement that is perfectly understandable..in fact cannot BE reasonably taken to mean more than one thing.


Thats what I've been tryin to say, do I stutter ?!? :lol: :wink:

canyncarvr wrote:But you didn't say that...........


Oh. :oops:

canyncarvr wrote:Furthermore:
If I ever do find a 'momentary contact switch that is push-to-break contact' I will buy it.
certainly means that is the kind you think you NEED to have?

I don't know that either. I doubt it is the type you need..as string said. Maybe you do.


I really don't know what I need, as I'm sure you can tell. I do know that the kill switch works on CR/YZ/KX's etc but opposite on mine so it's the way my bike is wired thats stopping it from working. I just presumed that by getting a switch that was 'push to open' as opposed to a 'push to close' it would work.

canyncarvr wrote:It seems you have a light that works..but you have no kill switch..but then, why would moving it matter?


My stock kill switch has always worked. Due to it being a rocker type switch and being mounted next to the grip, I have bumped it off a fair few times over bumpy stuff causing me to crash. I was trying to eliminate the rocker type swtch for a push and hold type. Sorry for the confusion Brad and I appreciate you trying to help me out.

I need to lay down, my head hurts... :rolleyes: :mrgreen:
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Postby stringburner » 10:21 pm Dec 08 2006

I'd have to start checking the wiring on your bike against a diagram and see wth was going on, and trying to find out why a rocker type switch worked, and a momentary switch didn't....if that's even the point of this thread....I'm not sure any more :?
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things are as the apeer.

Postby krazyinski » 09:20 am Dec 14 2006

I have always had a little spooge around the pipe were it fits the cylinder so asuming it was no big deal untill the day I got tired of it and cleaned the pipe and properly sealed it, which was at the time the kill switch started giving me troubles and the bike started running rich oh and the weather changed to dramtic temp swings, so the point is I have had a bit more of a exhaust leak than I thought and tuned the bike with the leak now that there is no leak the bike ran rich enough to foul an old plug just enough to make it hard to start.

after over hauling the kill switch I installed a new plug and went for a ride.
black is what it was. I adjust the neddle one clip and that was it. that is a CGM
neddle on the 2nd from the top.
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