Boyesen rad valve -VS- VForce3

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Boyesen rad valve -VS- VForce3

Postby TWMOODY » 11:31 pm Dec 03 2006

Just finished up getting warm again after a 6 hour beat through some pits in COOOOLD michigan @ 26 degrees to read some responses to a post.

Question for all you die hard KDX riders:
Boyesen rad valve VS VForce 3 what works better and why for a 2005 KDX 200 with 135 miles on it. Im already pumping some cash into it because my 87 kdx 200 will smoke it across all terrain and Im kind of bummed that 18 years of technology turned out a slower bike. :cry: :?
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Postby Indawoods » 12:30 am Dec 04 2006

It just needs dialed in... forget the Rad Valve... it's performance is that of stock reeds. DF3 or Boysen 607's.
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Postby AZRickD » 01:10 am Dec 04 2006

What's the odds of two unrelated KDXers posting on the same subject within minutes of each other? :rolleyes:

viewtopic.php?t=3412
I done KX-ed QuailChaser's KDX220R
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Postby quailchaser » 01:34 am Dec 04 2006

Similiar subject...in that the DF3 was mentioned in both threads. Other than that, they are totally different.

I have not had one single person say anything good about the RAD valve. Every person I've talked to who's had the DF3 has said their throttle response is much better and has liked the overall performance over the stock set up.
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Re: Boyesen rad valve -VS- VForce3

Postby stringburner » 01:18 pm Dec 04 2006

>|<>QBB<
TWMOODY wrote:Im already pumping some cash into it because my 87 kdx 200 will smoke it across all terrain and Im kind of bummed that 18 years of technology turned out a slower bike. :cry: :?


I swear my '89 felt quicker than my '06, but that's just going on memory, and it's been a long time ago. I recall it not to be faster, but it ran alot crisper than this one. I remember the first day I rode it, we came onto a blacktop section, and rolling on in 3rd gear it started to wheelie, and I had to roll off a little to "woah" it a bit. I was impressed at that point. Then we got back to my friends house, and his dad noticed one of the radiator hoses wasn't tightened up so well, and it had almost worked its way off... Then on the way home, I came through a damp field, and when I came back onto blacktop, I rolled on the throttle and immediately highsided. :mrgreen:
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Postby canyncarvr » 01:35 pm Dec 04 2006

Re: '..eighteen years of technology..'

You mean eighteen years of pretty much the same thing year after year?

Out of the box, the KDX is a barbie doll play bike. I don't know if that was the case in '87.

Seeing as my '00 KDX 200 can chew on a brandy new CRF250X's rear..and pass it on occasion, I think the KDX can be made to run pretty well.

Maybe your '87 is unique and something to be simply cherished. Machines do that sometimes..they just work better than they have any right to.

Oh...the Boyesen RadValve is a complete goober, waste of time, sand down the proverbial rat hole, $$ flushed down the terlit, AND an absolute POS.

This is a one year old RadValve reed:

Image

If it worked well before it came to this, that would be one thing. But, it didn't.

I've seen other's RadValve reeds that looked worse than mine!

Cheers!
Last edited by canyncarvr on 01:58 pm Dec 04 2006, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby TWMOODY » 01:37 pm Dec 04 2006

I was able to cancel the RAD valve from bandits with no problem.
Am i wasting money that could be better spent on other mods?
The bike has excellent throttle response and I was under the impression
that upgraded reed would boost performance.
Is the VFORCE 3 worth doing now or wait till I need new reeds ?
You guys are great for responding to my dumb questions......
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Postby canyncarvr » 02:13 pm Dec 04 2006

An upgraded reed system (a good one) will improve the performance of your bike

I guess it depends on where you're headed with the bike.

If you're going to do it all sooner or later, then the sequence of what when is pretty much your choice, not written in stone tablet someplace.

Generally speaking some generally applied concepts are generally true:

1. Bolting on lots of stuff without having a clue as to what you're doing is likely going to result in a bike that runs worse than it did to start with.

2. Free or relatively free 'modifications' are priceless, indeed likely of more value than a good number of mods you pay good $$ for: Tune your suspension (set shock sag, clickers front and rear as best suits). Properly jet/rejet your bike.

3. If you're out of whack suspension-wise to the extent it cannot be tuned to suit..fix it (correctly rated springs, at least try a couple of simple compression stack changes).

4. If you're past those points and ready to pump in some cash, you will likely find a plethora of opinions. If you already have a pipe that suits you, an RB-Designs modified carb is close to the top of my list if not ON the top.

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Postby TWMOODY » 03:18 pm Dec 04 2006

I ride with guys with 450 yzf's and cr 250's.
I am fine with them in the woods but in the dust on the flat.

I have only had this bike a few weeks and truely enjoy the ride over the 87 that
I rebuilt a couple months ago.
I have opened the air box/K&N filter,replaced the muffler FMF TC2
will be ordering a FMF dessert pipe-bike has no pull on upper end
and doing both carb/head mods.
I think i should also run a larger fnt sprocket as the bike has lots of low end
torque but nothing on the top end speed-need 7th gear HA
I don't plan to do the head/carb mods until all else is done so I can have RB set everything up for all I plan to do.
Do you think im doing this in the right sequence?
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Postby Indawoods » 03:23 pm Dec 04 2006

I think you should inspect your KIPS. Sounds like it is not functioning correctly. My 95 RIPS!
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Postby canyncarvr » 03:34 pm Dec 04 2006

Re: 'has no pull on upper end'

That's subjective.

You're not going to be keeping with CRs and 450s in open riding...period.

Well, unless one of them is:

1. Ridden by me, or
2. They're broken!

Re: '..nothing on top end speed..'

Define 'nothing'.

Your bike is either quite broken, or your expectations are unrealistic.

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Re: Boyesen rad valve -VS- VForce3

Postby kawagumby » 04:42 pm Dec 04 2006

>|<>QBB<
TWMOODY wrote:Question for all you die hard KDX riders:
Boyesen rad valve VS VForce 3 what works better and why for a 2005 KDX 200 with 135 miles on it. Im already pumping some cash into it because my 87 kdx 200 will smoke it across all terrain and Im kind of bummed that 18 years of technology turned out a slower bike. :cry: :?


I know exactly what you mean. After riding an E model for years and buying the new H model in 95, I was really disappointed with the motor's bottom to mid punch. I had a loop with a gnarly vertical uphill and the H model just didn't have the low-mid torque to clear it like the older bike would, even when jetted right. Maybe the large carburetor and different porting indicated a change in what kaw wanted the bike to do best -
I went to a 220 to regain the torque the E model had.
1994 KDX200, Beta Xtrainer, 2 yz125's, kx100 modded for adult, cf150rb modded for adult, gasgas contact 250.
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Postby TWMOODY » 04:52 pm Dec 04 2006

The bike is flat after 3 gear takes way to long to wind out and no power.
idle to midrange is powerful then like someone put on the binders.

Wierd thing is it will pull a wheelie in first no problem- second only if
idling or low speed then full throttle-Third dreamer.

Seems like all power is idle to mid range

Also not posted in last reply this bike also was smoked by a
99 yamaha yxf 250 blew by me in a wheelie out of the hole like I was standing still.
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Postby Indawoods » 04:57 pm Dec 04 2006

KIPS my man.... :wink:

True story on my 95...

When I got it ... it was anemic like you talk about. I tore it apart and the actuating arm gear had a dab of grease on it. It had never moved.... NEVER!

I tore the topend apart cleaned the years of carbon buildup off and manually moved the actuating arm back and forth... she loosened up and has worked perfect every since..... :supz:
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Postby canyncarvr » 05:59 pm Dec 04 2006

TW: Do you know how to check the KIPS for proper operation?

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Postby TWMOODY » 06:42 pm Dec 04 2006

Quite honestly NO.

I would think you pull the right cover and see if the shaft pulls out on snap
accelarition/take screw out of conecting shaft and see if the shaft even moves?

Not sure if this is the same setup as the 87 but on that I adjusted the shaft
tight closed wil bike was shut off and it seemed to work good.

Man thanks for all the help You and Indawoods have replied to almost all
my questions.

I am a master state/master ase auto tech with advanced engine perf certs
so I am excellent in that area by this is a learning curve !!! :shock: :roll:
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Postby canyncarvr » 07:30 pm Dec 04 2006

So...YOU can tell my why my 1.6 TBI Suzuki (OK...it's a Tracker) revs up and down like a yo-yo if I have the heater blower or lights on? :wink:

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Postby TWMOODY » 10:15 pm Dec 04 2006

Did you ever check voltage drop between body/engine/battery negitive post/battery negitive connector in any sequence or voltage drop across battery pos post/terminal/starter if thats the junction to fuse panel or between battery pos
and ecm fuse/ecm hot with key on?
If it has ac unplug the plug to the compressor see if the problem goes away.
Does your tbi have a IAC motor or an idle stepper ?
It sounds like any time you have a demand for current your ECM may have a low
voltage condition resulting from one of the above.
Tell me the year and 8th digit of the vin and I will look in TSB's tomorrow for you !
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Postby TWMOODY » 10:29 pm Dec 04 2006

Ok tonight I pulled the cover off the KIPS acuator shaft removed the nut and manualy twisted the shaft back and forth.
It seems to have a snap at first then moves slightly easier.
I can see the valves open through the exhaust port and the flapper dohickey
in front of the piston move up.
It does take some effort to twist this shaft when the bike is cold 30 degrees
and I would wonder if under warm conditions it might totally stick.
Should this move free with ZERO effort ?
This is a different design than my 87 and that one moves in and out effortless.
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Postby Colorado Mike » 10:34 pm Dec 04 2006

Put the bike back together, take the round slotted cover off the left side and start the bike. Watch the nut in there as you rev the bike. When you hit around 6K rpm, it should rotate, and turn back once you let off the gas.
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