KDXRIDER.NET

That's a stock needle

So it seems I am going to be ordering some off line once I get my pay check. Let me get this right, CEL is good for a slower, tamer hit, a good woods needle. While the DEL is a harder hit that comes faster, I thought I had read this somwhere and then Bailey28's post switched the two. It could be in my head but I wanted to make sure.

Doesnt matter too much though, I am going to order both. 1 for messing around at a back woods track my friends and I have been messing around at lately and another for good woods riding.

You got it backwards....

Screw this jetting sh!t. I think I might just be a lost cause.

If you say so...

Relax... read the material again.

D needle is more mellow than the C.

DEL and CEL for stock carbs
DEK and CEK for RB modified carbs

thebleakness wrote:Screw this jetting sh!t. I think I might just be a lost cause.

Someone needs a hug.

Settle petal it's not the end of the world. Just take a deep breath and tell Uncle Vincey and Uncle Bradley ya problems and they will set you on the path of enlightenment.


















Or ya could just screw it.......

Twas a joke. Just a joke...

I dont know where I read it (If i ever did read it) but for some reason I was thinking Cs were the mellower ones. I have been looking at the needle charts and some other FAQs on needle marking. Its just going to take some time for me to really understand how the different measurments relate and how it affects performance.

Mr. Bleakness - Don't sweat it man, many have gone before you, many will follow!

It IS frustrating because there's lots of info presented in lots of ways. 'Could be worse - like NO info available.

What the guys on this webpage suggest WORKS!

Hang in there, it gets easier - quickly - and very rewarding.

It's like FM, baby!!

...go with the large diameter Q needle and pick a taper that starts later, such as a CEQ or DEQ..

RE... I don't think so. You take into account the large difference in L1...where? There are two clips worth to be figured, and that matters. Obviously you can move the clip, but that wasn't mentioned.

gee, I always thought that the steeper the taper, the later the taper will start on the needle. Like the post:

RE... it's a taper thing, mostly. The 'C' being steeper angle-wise (changes diameter faster when the taper starts) it starts taperling later (farther down) the needle than does a 'B' needle. 11/8/06

That was my comparison to the stock BEQ vs. the CEQ or even the DEQ. But yeah, officially, the start of the taper would be even later on a CGQ or DGQ series. The difference in L1 as argued above is not an official one, but more of the thought that the taper starts later on the C and D and E series than starts on a B. Clips 3 and 4 are the only two that matter, I agree.


RE... A DEQ IS MORE lean than an R1174N, but not for very long. Less than 1/4 throttle and it's considerably more rich (for example..same clip).

I was comparing the DEQ to the R1174"K" that came out of my 200. the K taper would be an "F", in between E and G on the three letter conversion chart. So, stock 200 = BFQ.. An average between 38.15,E and 39.95,G is 39.05, F... If the L1 on the BFQ is even longer than a E L1 of what is generally recommended ie CEL, etc, then how come the B taper makes these bikes a blubber machine off the bottom?

answer: re.. Now you can see why different taper angles matter so much..the taper starts in different places on the needle (with a given L1 and diameter).


Call it CGQ and definately DGQ for a later start to the taper. I can see that because the "N" has a longer L1 stock for the 220, I am assuming that needle is stock, then the CEQ is equal or shorter than the stock N needle.

re.. Try some toluene! You'll like it!!
No thanks, I need to keep all of brain cells I have!!

Its all fun and games until someone's eye gets poked out!!

Yes, the EEL needle is working great in the carb, even with the RB mod. It is electric, and it does float the boat. The steep taper takes the slight bog away from running no airbox lid. Still running the same spark plug from 4 months ago, when I installed the RB carb.

My local place didnt have any needles.
They did have some jets for me, i got 158/155 mains and a 45 pilot. I'm so excited to get this figured out after thanksgiving! I think i'm going to put the 158 in, too rich is better than too lean right?Is there anything that can be messed up while changing jets, because im thinking of asking my uncle to come over and take it apart for me, he used to be a motorcycle mechanic. Do you start with the airbox, or the gas tank to get to the carb?
2001 200h
airbox lid on
stock carb, pipe
32:1 Bel-ray h1r
turbine core 2
Sea Level, 45 degrees
Rich jetting seems to be fouling my plugs. Not for long.

HUH? Leave the tank and airbox alone....

Just loosen the clamps on either side of the carb after taking the fuel line loose and turn toward you, unscrew the cap and extract the slide if the throttle cable is behind the fuel tap and then remove the carb.

Oops! Thanks Inda for telling me, I was probably going to dissasemble half the bike before i realized that!

Just a FWIW - like Inda said almost - Well exactly what he said concerning the throttle valve and needle clip access. But even for main or pilot jet changes - why remove the carb? Once the top and slide are removed - stuff a rag into that cavity and twist the carb so the float bowl is facing you. Remove the four bowl screws and you into the guts of the carb for Pilot jet changes. Just remove the bowl drain bolt and you have main jet access. Yep you'll have a little spilled fuel but it is a quick way to access your internal jetting.

And... upon reassembly... put the throttle cable in front of the fuel tap if it's not already that way. Makes service a whole lot easier in the future.

Once the top and slide are removed - stuff a rag into that cavity and twist the carb so the float bowl is facing you.

And make sure the float pivot pin does not fall out

Ron