KDXRIDER.NET

I've read some historical threads on this. Guess I'm asking for a redo!

Inda..you mentioned using soapy water.

Soapy how much and with what?

I know there is 'special' stuff you can buy for the express purpose of positioning decals. I'm sure a homebrew of some sort would work. How about a recipe from someone?

Last night I put on a set of OEM shroud decals. It didn't come out worth a hoot!!

I tried soapy water (detergent, not specifically soap)..the same stuff I use to mount tires. The graphics didn't slip for diddle. That is to say nada, zip, zero.

I tried alcohol and water on the other side. Not much better. Actually no better.

When the adhesive touched..it was staying. I could pull it off and re-place it..but it wasn't going to slip at all!

I tried heat..all that did was bubble the material...and I'm not talking about 1500Ws of direct hit for 30 seconds, either.

The OEM stuff is very thin. I chose OEM because I wasn't coming up with any other acceptable product for the KDX. I'm not a fan of skulls, swoard (sic) warriors or naked cartoons. Something like this:




Basically black, white and green with some yellow to satisfy the KawaSuzi merger.

After completely blowing $40 on OEM graphics, NOW I'm ready to spend $90 to get rid of the mess I made..but want to hear some how-to about it.

Is 14mil OK? The Ceet stuff I took off is a good 3X the thickness of the OEM product. I knew that was going to be true when I ordered 'em.

Let the teaching begin?

Thanks!

There are some decal adhesives that won't work with any wet application using water or alky. And there are some that can't have any soap. For those it is best to tape the decal in position then expose 1/2 at a time smoothing away from center then the other 1/2. The decal must have a split in the release paper going right down the center as well. If it doesn't you have to make one with a razor without cutting through. That is why when some decals are special ordered you have to tell them where to put the pre-cuts on the backing paper.

I've read of the 'no slip' kinds of adhesive..regardless of whether Windex, soap or alcohol are used. (is used?)

I'm looking at the xgx site noted in another thread. That's where the $90 figure came from. The pic came from their 'custom' generator.

Thanks for the 'pre-cut' idea. That's something to ask them about.

BTW, the OEM graphics had no backing separations.

Thanks Brad

I wonder, since different companies use different adhesives, that they would recommend a mounting method in regards to soap/water/windex/etc?

I used windex and it worked great, infact too good. The decal would slip if I stood the plastic vertical. I had to lay it flat and then it took the better part of a week to set up. After that, it stuck, well, like glue!!!

Nice looking graphics though. Should make the bike run much better than it has.

skipro3 wrote:Should make the bike run much better than it has. Well, if it had a REAL rider, THAT would work, too!

Thanks, buddy!

**edit**

I swear he edited his post after I quoted him! Honest Injun!!

(can I still say sumthin' like that? )


Anyway...yes. The xtg folks to have a 'how to' in their website FAQ, presumeably intended for their product.

I used the stick it and forget it method. I lined up the holes and started there.... everything lined up from there.... done.

Windex, work out with fingers, then blow dry on a medium heat setting....Done.....

Inda/GH

OEM vinyl?

Or the easier to handle thick stuff?

Thick stuff... very thick thuff!

Hello, I just joined the forum, I'm a new KDX owner but I have had plenty of experience with applying decals to different bikes.

The most fool-proof way I have found is as follows:

1. Take the decal and peel back about 1" of the backing from one edge and cut it off with scissors.
2. Position decal being careful not to let exposed adhesive touch the plastic. Once desired position is achieved press down the exposed adhesive.
3. Now peel the remaining backing SLOWLY about 1/2 inch at a time and press from the middle of the decal outward to avoid any bubbles.

This method has worked for me several times. Being patient in peeling the backing off is the key to a bubble-free decal.

My buddy used to own a window tint shop. He would spray on gobs and gobs of water in a spray bottle. Water dripping everywhere. He would slide the tint on and reposition. Extra squirts of water around the edges as needed. Then he would take a little plastic squeeqee (paint shop stuff), and squish the water out the sides.

He did the best tint jobs I've seen in other than really high-end shops.

Rick

The soap breaks the surface tension of the water... that's what it's for....

canyncarvr wrote:I've read of the 'no slip' kinds of adhesive..regardless of whether Windex, soap or alcohol are used. (is used?)

or . . . is. If it was "and" it would be "are"

You DID say let the teaching begin

BTW - nice graphics, good luck

maicocpa wrote:Hello, I just joined the forum, I'm a new KDX owner but I have had plenty of experience with applying decals to different bikes.

The most fool-proof way I have found is as follows:

1. Take the decal and peel back about 1" of the backing from one edge and cut it off with scissors.
2. Position decal being careful not to let exposed adhesive touch the plastic. Once desired position is achieved press down the exposed adhesive.
3. Now peel the remaining backing SLOWLY about 1/2 inch at a time and press from the middle of the decal outward to avoid any bubbles.

This method has worked for me several times. Being patient in peeling the backing off is the key to a bubble-free decal.

this is a good method.

Windex and a hair dryer worked very well for me.

Let me know if you decide to get anything from XGX. Ive been looking at the mech decals, they look quite sick. Im not a fan of the skulls and cartoons ones either. Let me know how good the quality is on those sucka's.

canyncarvr wrote:Inda/GH

OEM vinyl?

Or the easier to handle thick stuff?

I have used this method on Thick Decal & Window Tint. With the thinner material I would use a low to cool heat setting on the hair dryer, since too much heat could cause the graphics to bubble or melt. The thicker graphics also beef up the strength of the shrouds & if you crack them, chances are you will have the shroud intact for future repair. The OEM graphics will let the pieces fly.

Wet that plastic down with a 10% solution of rubiing alcohol (Isopropanol). Peel off the backing and place the decal approximately where you want it starting in the center of the plastic panel. Push donw on the decal when you have it in the spot that you want. Using a squeegee, work from the center of the decal out towards the edges removing the air bubbles as you go. When you get done, leave for a day or so allowing the IPA to disappear.

If you have trapped air bubbles, poke center of bubble with a pin (of make a small "X" with a razor blade) and using the squeegee again, flatten the air bubble.

Until 3M came out with their new micro textured adhesive, this is the method I have used to apply graphics on the sides of semi's. Works everytime.

Not to be TOO thick...but isopropanal is different from isopropyl?

I used isopropyl, but probably at closer to 40%. The OEM adhesive didn't budge..as folks in this post have said some adhesives do.

The biggest problem is toward the top of the shroud where it has a fairly sharp 'turn'. I did line up the bolt holes and did apply pressure at that ridge with the bottom of the decal held away from the shroud for the express purpose of getting that turn tight.

Maybe it's the thin OEM decal that stretched at that point as I pushed the water/alcohol out.

Maybe me and decals just don't get along.

Yeah...them and everybody/everything else.......

CC, use a putty (yellow plastic bondo) blade to force the decal into the tight folds. Don't bother sweet talkin it into place, sheer profanity and good ol dirty words of warning is all those decals understand.