How to Take off 220 Seat?!

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How to Take off 220 Seat?!

Post by KDXGarage »

Hey. My buddy and I were checking out a 220 yesterday and while doing so, I took off two 6mm bolts to try to remove the seat and check the air filter. I couldn't get the seat off! After the two bolts are removed, what was I supposed to do next? I tried sliding it downward with the slope of the fuel tank, then pulling away, but I couldn't get it to budge. After that didn't work, I tried sliding it up. No luck. I may have just been not pulling hard enough.

Any tips on how to take the freakin' seat off?

Funny add-on story. I took it for a test drive in a field while we were there. Close to a road there were two Girls Gone Wild DVD's just laying in the field, out of the case, loose with a case nearby. Weird. :-)
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Post by bradf »

The two bolts are all that hold the rear of the seat. Pull up a inch or two on the rear of the seat to insure the mounting tabs are clear of the frame then push (pound with hand) down on the front of the seat as you have done. There could be a possibility that the previous owner has jammed the seat up onto the tank and somehow mangled the plastic mounting groove in the seat. As for the DVD's, "Luck-yyyyyyy GOSH"
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Post by KDXGarage »

That is how my '94 seat is. It has a screw in the gas tank with a head and the body is not threaded. I just lift up on the rear of the seat, put my hand under the back and press down on the front while pulling rearward with the back of the seat. I guess I just didn't do it hard enough.

I didn't grab the DVD's. I would have been too embarrased to try to explain it. :oops:

Thanks.
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Post by skipro3 »

Who knows what may have been "stuck" to those DVD's :shock:

Seat:
The rear, as you have discovered is held by the two bolts. The front slides onto a bolt in the tank AND there is a tab under the seat behind the seat tongue that also is a slip fit, so don't lift too high up on the rear of the seat as you slide it back or you might bust this tab off the bottom of the seat. It is molded into the seat pan. So there you go, three points of contact: rear with 2 bolts, tank with a metal slot that fits a screw head on the seat, and a molded tab that fits a slot on the frame.
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Post by skipro3 »

P.S. How far did you roost the DVD's? Can a '95 fling one farther than an older KDX?
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Post by KDXGarage »

I just left them there. I can't say that the '97 KDX220 was much different than my '94 or my '87, acceleration wise. I'll have to try again after my buddy gets through going through it. I think it is fairly well tuned vs. not yet tuned.


It has a stock exhaust pipe and an FMF Power Core II silencer. We'll have to figure out all the rest as he tears it down.

skipro3, did you ever try do much jetting to yours before going with the different carb setup? For now, I suggested he get two smaller and two larger mains and pilots and go from there. He is going to order the manuals in the next day or to, then get to work on it.
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Post by skipro3 »

Yes, I did jet the bike correctly before upgrading to the modified air stryker. It really wakes the bike up but that air stryker, wow.

With the stock carb, I went leaner on the main and pilot then the clip on the needle as well but kept the stock needle. Keep in mind, this was with C-12 gas, not pump, so it ran leaner on the jetting for that reason as well.
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

Forget the friggin' bike!

GO GET THE DVD'S!! :twisted:
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Post by KDXGarage »

OK, my buddy got the seat off. Some previous owner/idiot had replaced the stock screw head that slides into the metal bracket with a side panel bolt and washer. Needless to say he had to beat the heck out of it to get it to break free.

Thanks again for the help gents.
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Post by Indawoods »

So I'm guessing the filter is proly pretty bad eh?
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Post by KDXGarage »

There was nothing pretty about it. :cry:
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Post by wsjkawasaki »

pretty nasty!!! :mad:
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Post by KDXGarage »

Hey. Look who's here. :lol:
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