Sticky Clutch

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thebleakness
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Sticky Clutch

Post by thebleakness »

I noticed after i had bought my KDX220 that the clutch sticks when the engine isnt running. Meaning i cant disengage the clutch and manually move the bike without the engine turning over. I asked the shop we bought the bike from and he told us that some motorcycles do that and its nothing to worry about. He also said that it would slowly go away as i continued riding it.

Is this true or should i be worrying about it? The clutch disengages perfectly fine while the engine is running so its not a problem to shift into 1st from neutral.

Thank you.
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krazyinski
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Post by krazyinski »

no dont worry be happy and ride. my clutch dont work when its not running, then again I dont ride it when or need it when its not running. :grin:
2000 KDX220 FRP Ported,plated cylinder,milled head, FRP bored carb, V force 3 reeds, FMF desert pipe, 10oz FWW, 98 KX forks and oem shock re valved by Pro Action, hyd clutch, fastway pegs, tall seat foam, gripper cover, 29" CRhigh mini bars, Cycra brush gaurds.
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thebleakness
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Post by thebleakness »

Good good. Ive been having too much fun with this bike. I was reading around the site and seems people arent even using the clutch for many situations. Good news for me. :D

I was having trouble finding neutral before and thought that it might have something to do with the clutch not working. But i found a crack on the shift lever that was making finding neutral very sensitive. That scared me for a minute. lol :razz:
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m0rie
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Post by m0rie »

Fresh oil helps with the finding neutral issues as well.
1989 KDX 200
2007 TTR-50E
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krazyinski
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Post by krazyinski »

>|<>QBB<
thebleakness wrote:Good good. Ive been having too much fun with this bike. I was reading around the site and seems people arent even using the clutch for many situations. Good news for me. :D

I was having trouble finding neutral before and thought that it might have something to do with the clutch not working. But i found a crack on the shift lever that was making finding neutral very sensitive. That scared me for a minute. lol :razz:


I run rotella t full synthetic in the trans and it shifts great. I did get a new pair a boots and had a bad time shifting until I realized the shift lever had broke on the spline part that holds it to the shift shaft. after inspection I found it had been cracked for a while. I bought an amego shift lever for an KX80 and cut the spline clamp off of it and mine then welded the new clamp on my old oem shift lever.
2000 KDX220 FRP Ported,plated cylinder,milled head, FRP bored carb, V force 3 reeds, FMF desert pipe, 10oz FWW, 98 KX forks and oem shock re valved by Pro Action, hyd clutch, fastway pegs, tall seat foam, gripper cover, 29" CRhigh mini bars, Cycra brush gaurds.
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thebleakness
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Post by thebleakness »

Mine was cracking right below the spine where they had welded the spline clamp to the rest of the lever. I took it too school and welded it back together. Might be stronger now. I put a nice 7018 bead with full penetration in that baby. :cool:

I was riding it around earlier and it definatly came broken because it took me awhile to get used to where the shift lever was. It has a much smoother shift now. :grin:
AZRickD
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Post by AZRickD »

My KDX 220 has the same problem. If it's in gear the clutch will not allow me to roll it. I havet the clutch cable at the lever adjusted all the way out which is not a good fix. When the cable is adjusted less so, the bike will jump when I shift into first.

I don't know how to adjust it otherwise. I have not inspected the plates or basket. But I will...

Rick
I done KX-ed QuailChaser's KDX220R
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