Which one first, RB mod or Delta Force III?
- canyncarvr
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Revalving is pretty much always a good plan. If for no other reason than it's (hopefully) something that is done with YOU in mind...not just one more bike with a bunch of parts destined for a spot in a showroom line somewheres.
I spent a good deal of $$ on my suspension..front and back. When I got it back I wasn't too impressed. 'Gee. Not a whole lot of bang for THOSE hundreds of $$!' I said to myself.
Then I had an opportunity to ride a kdx with oem suspension. It about scairt me to the point of soiling myself. Man! It was bad!!
Clickers should be 'in the middle' only if that's where they end up after tuning your suspension. Have you been through the suspension setting routine? Accelerating bumps, braking bumps, crabbing front-end, etc etc etc? Two clicks on my bike make a huge difference!! Easy to feel. Little things like pressure bleeds on the forks are a big deal, too! Well, imo.
It's all a matter of a whole bunch of little steps. They all add up. Some things do common-sensibly come first. Not a lot of point in spending money on a revalve if you haven't bothered to tune what you got. What are you going to do with your new revalve? Ride it like it comes out of the box? That's a waste of good money. Learn the tuning method now so you know what to do when you get the hi-$$ revalve done.
If you don't have a suspension primer bookmarked..let us know. Somebody will send you some good links. There used to be a pretty good one on MX-Tech's site.
Basically, ride over some whoops..pay attention to what the backend is doing. Kicks your arse off the seat on the way up? Too much compression. Kicks the tire off the ground at the top? Too little (too fast) rebound. Successive whoops get worse and worse (packing)? Too much (too slow) rebound.
Forks? Set 'em as soft as you can and not have it bottom more than once in a great while.
Sag? Set to 4". Resultant free sag should be 5/8-1 1/4" or so. Not enough? Shock spring is too light. Too much? Shock spring is too heavy.
Tune what you got (suspension) first. If $150 is the target price the DF3 fits. Closer to $190 for the carb with shipping and one'a those cute finger adjustable air screws! :)
I spent a good deal of $$ on my suspension..front and back. When I got it back I wasn't too impressed. 'Gee. Not a whole lot of bang for THOSE hundreds of $$!' I said to myself.
Then I had an opportunity to ride a kdx with oem suspension. It about scairt me to the point of soiling myself. Man! It was bad!!
Clickers should be 'in the middle' only if that's where they end up after tuning your suspension. Have you been through the suspension setting routine? Accelerating bumps, braking bumps, crabbing front-end, etc etc etc? Two clicks on my bike make a huge difference!! Easy to feel. Little things like pressure bleeds on the forks are a big deal, too! Well, imo.
It's all a matter of a whole bunch of little steps. They all add up. Some things do common-sensibly come first. Not a lot of point in spending money on a revalve if you haven't bothered to tune what you got. What are you going to do with your new revalve? Ride it like it comes out of the box? That's a waste of good money. Learn the tuning method now so you know what to do when you get the hi-$$ revalve done.
If you don't have a suspension primer bookmarked..let us know. Somebody will send you some good links. There used to be a pretty good one on MX-Tech's site.
Basically, ride over some whoops..pay attention to what the backend is doing. Kicks your arse off the seat on the way up? Too much compression. Kicks the tire off the ground at the top? Too little (too fast) rebound. Successive whoops get worse and worse (packing)? Too much (too slow) rebound.
Forks? Set 'em as soft as you can and not have it bottom more than once in a great while.
Sag? Set to 4". Resultant free sag should be 5/8-1 1/4" or so. Not enough? Shock spring is too light. Too much? Shock spring is too heavy.
Tune what you got (suspension) first. If $150 is the target price the DF3 fits. Closer to $190 for the carb with shipping and one'a those cute finger adjustable air screws! :)
Last edited by canyncarvr on 01:06 pm Feb 10 2005, edited 1 time in total.
Consider the source
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Ron is a member of this site. His member name is RBD if you want to PM him or ask him a question on this forum. He is quick to give answers.
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"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- canyncarvr
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The ANSWER to your question:
RB Designs website is:
http://www.RB-Designs.com
There you will find contact information...physical address, email address etc. Also prices for his carb modification.
**Note that the carb should be shipped clean..with no hoses.
Don't forget to send the slide with it, as that is part of the modification process. That isn't necessary if you're going to purchase a slide (from him or not) so you will have a spare.
Don't forget to get one'a those neat-o finger adjustable air screws!!!
Turnaround? Well, you will know you're not dealing with Forward Motion or FRP, that's for sure! Wouldn't hurt to ask him about it. Example: Stands to reason that if he's booked solid this week you could keep your carb for a ride this weekend, send it in first of next week for a better turnaround. In any case you're likely talking about a day or two. Keep in mind that he may be waiting on needles or some other parts from somebody else that would slow things down.
He HAS been known to take a day or two off every few years! ;)
Point is, don't just up-and-send your stuff in without contacting him (imo).
RB Designs website is:
http://www.RB-Designs.com
There you will find contact information...physical address, email address etc. Also prices for his carb modification.
**Note that the carb should be shipped clean..with no hoses.
Don't forget to send the slide with it, as that is part of the modification process. That isn't necessary if you're going to purchase a slide (from him or not) so you will have a spare.
Don't forget to get one'a those neat-o finger adjustable air screws!!!
Turnaround? Well, you will know you're not dealing with Forward Motion or FRP, that's for sure! Wouldn't hurt to ask him about it. Example: Stands to reason that if he's booked solid this week you could keep your carb for a ride this weekend, send it in first of next week for a better turnaround. In any case you're likely talking about a day or two. Keep in mind that he may be waiting on needles or some other parts from somebody else that would slow things down.
He HAS been known to take a day or two off every few years! ;)
Point is, don't just up-and-send your stuff in without contacting him (imo).
Consider the source
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Re:Susp....Yeah, what CC said.
More IMHO.....My school of thought being that a box-stock KDX motor has enough power to overdrive the stock susp. Get the susp right, and then when you get to the point where you are flogging the stock powerplant then go w/ motor mods. It is the same w/ a car. Take two mustangs for instance. Install four tuned coilovers, swaybars, strut braces, etc on one--leaving the motor stock. Install a supercharger, heads, exhaust, etc on the the other--leaving the susp stock. Then take both around a road course and see which one wins(or is more FUN to drive)...My $$ is on the one with suspension work...Unless not being in control and hitting stuff when you go out of control is "fun?" For that matter the "well hung" mustang w/ a 6cyl would still probably win! Corner speed, comfort, and control are where it's at no matter what the vehicle.
Just a little spare change on my thoughts concerning susp vs. motor modifications....
More IMHO.....My school of thought being that a box-stock KDX motor has enough power to overdrive the stock susp. Get the susp right, and then when you get to the point where you are flogging the stock powerplant then go w/ motor mods. It is the same w/ a car. Take two mustangs for instance. Install four tuned coilovers, swaybars, strut braces, etc on one--leaving the motor stock. Install a supercharger, heads, exhaust, etc on the the other--leaving the susp stock. Then take both around a road course and see which one wins(or is more FUN to drive)...My $$ is on the one with suspension work...Unless not being in control and hitting stuff when you go out of control is "fun?" For that matter the "well hung" mustang w/ a 6cyl would still probably win! Corner speed, comfort, and control are where it's at no matter what the vehicle.
Just a little spare change on my thoughts concerning susp vs. motor modifications....
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'95 KDX 200 Project $600 KDX
'94 WR 250 Always a project
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I am in the suspension before motor crowd, too.
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Re: Which one first, RB mod or Delta Force III?
9 years later....
- Gotanubike
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Which one first, RB mod or Delta Force III?
They were saying "IMHO" in 2005? Jeez must be some real pioneers in this thread
1990 KDX200
Bike Profile -> http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 61#p136315
Suspension Overhaul(Shock+89-92 conventional forks) -> http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 15&t=15255
96'-98' RM125 Showa 49mm fork swap -> http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 04&t=16994
KDXrider world map! -> https://www.zeemaps.com/map?group=186158
Bike Profile -> http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 61#p136315
Suspension Overhaul(Shock+89-92 conventional forks) -> http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 15&t=15255
96'-98' RM125 Showa 49mm fork swap -> http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 04&t=16994
KDXrider world map! -> https://www.zeemaps.com/map?group=186158