Whats the secret to installing the front axle without spinning the speedo gear housing?
Set it up with the gear housing stops each side of the fork stop as per instructions in the manual but as the torque increases the gear housing will begin to rotate. If I try to keep torquing to the 65ft/lb spec the two stops on the gear will literally pop over the fork stop.
The two stops on the gear housing are somewhat worn, from my efforts and no doubt the previous owners. Maybe this is making the problem worse.
I've tried holding the gear housing but as I can't exert enough force to stop it rotating.
Tony
Front axle installation -- whats the secret?
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I use the front plate that goes over the four studs to hold the axle in the right place as I tighten the big bolt slowly by hand. I "mock" install everything including holding the speedo drive with my hand as I assemble it. I then tighten the four little 10mm nuts down evenly, then back off about 1/4 to 1/2 or just until they don't bind the axle from spinning in the cradle.
Keep in mind that the axle has a spacer or ridged part built in that squeezes the speedo drive against the wheel bearings and the fork nubs once properly assembled. Just go slow and remember that until the axle bolt is fully torqued to 65ft lbs. the speedo drive will have some room to move around. I don't tighten the four 10mm nuts until after I torqued the axle. I greased the inside of the cradle lightly with assembly lube to allow the axle to spin in the cradle without galling it. The key to getting it to feel good and line up well is how much torque you set on the 4 10mm nuts just prior to tightening the axle bolt. You want the axle held in place, but not bound up from spinning in the cradle.
This was tough for me to get used to being this is the first bike I've had with this system. I don't like it, but it is what we have (unless you spend the $$$ for USD forks! )
Keep in mind that the axle has a spacer or ridged part built in that squeezes the speedo drive against the wheel bearings and the fork nubs once properly assembled. Just go slow and remember that until the axle bolt is fully torqued to 65ft lbs. the speedo drive will have some room to move around. I don't tighten the four 10mm nuts until after I torqued the axle. I greased the inside of the cradle lightly with assembly lube to allow the axle to spin in the cradle without galling it. The key to getting it to feel good and line up well is how much torque you set on the 4 10mm nuts just prior to tightening the axle bolt. You want the axle held in place, but not bound up from spinning in the cradle.
This was tough for me to get used to being this is the first bike I've had with this system. I don't like it, but it is what we have (unless you spend the $$$ for USD forks! )
FAZ
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Ebay that Speedo Drive, you will CRAP YOURSELF if you want to buy from KAWASAKI
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2008 KLX450R
2008 DRZ400SM
2005 KDX 220R
1985 KDX 200A3
2005 KLX 125L (SONS)
2003 KTM 50SX Pro Jr
B Senior # 254/0092
http://sponsorhouse.loopd.com/Members/R ... fault.aspx
Thanks to my 2008 Sponsers:
Dunlop, SteelMX, Amsoil, Simpson, Pro Works Racing, Pro Moto Billet, SLAP Energy,Boyesen, Rhino Stands, SixSixOne/SunLine Moto for your support.
John W Read Jr
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I think I got one lying around....
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"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "