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Hi Everyone,

I need to buy new chain and sprockets, and I was wondering what everyone's running as far as chain goes. I have it narrowed down to probably either the X-Ring or the Racing Chain, I heard that O-Ring causes friction which could result with a loss of power ( correct me if I'm Wrong:)).

Thanxs, Matt

Where's J-bird when you need him?

I ran an Oring for awhile on the KDX, it rubbed on the chain block so bad that I'd have to replace the clip on the master link. Links were always kinking up

When I destroyed it at the dunes I replaced it with a DID gold non o-ring, I like it

We don't need no stinking Gaybird in here!


I run O & X-rings on my other bikes, but then again they were designed to run an o-ring

I believe DID makes a narrower o-ring chain, Enduro model, but have not seen one

I run x-ring chains on all our bikes. Seems to hold the lube better than the o-ring. Did find I needed to go with wider chain guide on the KDX. As was mentioned some X-Ring chains are wider than others. Never tried an high quality racing chain so no input or knowledge concerning that chain or its life expectancy.

FWIW - DID has actually down sized the width of their X-ring chain from a few year ago. I liked their older VM series chain but will be changing to another heavier duty brand next time. The 380 eats the current DID VM version too fast.

P.S. Some smaller bikes you need to watch the area near the countershaft sprocket also due to lack of clearance.

The loss of power by a big chain that has o-rings is very apparent when you have little horsepower to begin with. We used to have a Honda CRF150 that makes around 11 HP. It also had a 520 O-ring chain that would probably never wear out if maintained well. That chain, according to CRF150 enthusiasts soaks up about 2-3 horsepower over a smaller chain that you would find on say a KX85.

My kid used to race a KX85 that made double the hp of the honda and had a dinky chain. The bike was a rocket, I could pull wheelies on it even with my svelt 185 lbs. with just the throttle. But he did break 2 chains.

For an enduro style bike, I would have a bomb-proof O or X ring chain. Race bike, I would have the bare minimum , so it'll transfer as much power as possible.

Here are some other things to think about

The o-ring or x-ring chains are much harder to R&R, particularly on the trail. A chain breaker and chain press are a must. Motion Pro makes a nice set that is compact, but a little heavy. I have loaned mine to several people on the trail who were basically up a creek.

You should not use a pressure washer to clean either an x-ring or o-ring chain. The pressure washers can force water past the o-ring/x-ring seals and lead to corrosion inside the links. Basically, the o-ring and x-ring chains are a pain in the butt to clean. Fortunately they really do not need to be thoroughly cleaned.

Both o-ring and x-ring chains do impart additional friction and some power loss. Hand-spin the wheels of bikes with both types of chain and you can feel the difference. is the loss significant? I don't think so! A miniscule fraction of a horse power or a few inch-pounds of torque at the worst.

Personally, I have found that, if I use an o-ring chain, the chain far outlasts the sprockets. This is especially true if I use lightweight aluminum sprockets. Since you are supposed to replace both sprockets and the chain at the same time, I never seem to get the full useful life out of the chains. If I use a old-fashioned chain, it seems to wear out at about the same time as the sprockets.

Maybe I'll really start a real argument and mention the relative worth of alloy vs steel sprockets. Using an alloy sprocket can save some real weight. Ask any serious racer, or better yet, ask any commissioned salesman at the parts counter. We're talking quite a few grams here. I can save about the same amount of weight by not carrying a bag of trail mix or a power bar in my back pack, or leaving a few ounces of water out of the camel back. I know, I know, the "rotating mass" issue of the heavier sprockets robs power, but it also imparts inertia once spinning, so I consider that a trade-off

Of course, the alloy sprockets wear out quickly, particularly in abrasive soils or mud. And they are expensive compared to steel sprockets. And you have to go ahead and replace the chains when the sprockets are worn out.

Having said all of the above, I have to admit that I currently have both o-ring chains and old-fashioned roller chains on our various bikes. Being basically lazy and having to maintain multiple bikes, I like the o-ring chains. I install them, then pretty much ignore them except for an occasional squirt of lubricant or a quick rinse with a hose to remove caked mud. I also like the old standard chain as they are cheap (like me), easy to remove and re-install, cheap (like me), easy to dry after cleaning, cheap (like me), and easy to repair with repair links on the trail.

I'm going to jinx myself.

I have never broken a chain since I went to the O-ring and then later the X-Ring chains. I do admit I watch the chain and sprockets and basically use the chain pull test off the back sprocket as a quick test every time I wash a bike. I don't know if I change them out too soon or not but I don't even carry a chain breaker any more and haven't for the last 6-7 years. I do carry an extra master link.

Recently (last year) introduced a father and two boys to dirt bike trail riding and one kid did throw a chain off a CFR 150 last year. (too loose) other than that I would have to go back about 10-12 years to the last time we had a problem with a chain out riding.

O or X ring - keep it adjusted and dry it with WD-40 after every wash and lube it occasionally is all I ever do. We really don't have a whole lot of mud ridding which is good at least on two fronts. Its hard on chains and I absolutely suck big time riding in the mud - very little to no experience.

Thanks, everyone confirmed what I had already thought. After every ride I wash my bike with a garden hose and soapy water (don't need to worry about pressure washing bearings, seals, etc. that way), and then I spray WD-40 on the chain to displace the water. I was planning on replacing the front and rear sprockets (both are leaning perdy bad) with steel ones. I figured KDX's come stock with steel ones might as well replace them with steel ones seeing they're cheaper, and who's going to notice a 1lb. difference on the rear wheel?

Yes I will go the extra wear life with steel everytime. Also I'm so nitpicky about chains I take mine off and clean /then soak them in a can of oil for a couple days.
My son hates me when I force him to do this. But I do have an o-ring chain to put on for sand situations.
ALOT of riders use o-ring chains as an excuse to be lazy about maintinence. Cleaning and lubeing and adjusting costs allmost nothing but I constantly hear young guys say their bike would be in better shape or it wouldn't have broke if they had more money.( I guess they mean enough money to have a personal mechanic to do it for them.)
One of the 1st areas I look on a used bike is the case area around the sproket for signs of damage. Its killed a couple of buys.

There is nothing wrong with reducing your maintenence... but not for the reason of being lazy.

A O or X ring chain still needs to be maintained but is easier and should last longer due to being permanantly lubed.

I like a good high quality standard chain as well as the X ring chain I have now... I am just trying it out to see if I like it.... and so far I do.