Carbs & 91 Octane Pump Gas Variability & Trail Tech

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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

That's one of the valves... It has one on the other side too. That looks to be in the closed position. Did it open when you turned the actuator?

That cover is covering a expansion port... It times the hit so to speak. If you reduced it's size... it would make it hit harder it theory. That's my take on it anyway...

Fuzz has a plate on his WR to replace the larger bowl shaped cover that was on it.
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Post by RBD »

AZRickD


Looks like you are learning things and taking other peoples advice.... Good for you :razz:

Keep searching and give us your conclusions, it helps us all (but mostly you :rolleyes: )

Ron
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Post by AZRickD »

Yes, I am learning much. Like maybe it's time to take it to a professional.

:shock:

Both valves were opening and closing by sight and feel (and the clam-shaped valve on top). At least when I was in there. Who's to know what it's doing between 8200 and 9200 RPM.

I just got back from a late-nite ride. The DEK-3 didn't change a thing. In fact, I didn't notice much difference from the CEK-3, but I'm not an experienced rider nor an experienced KDXer.

Robb (former owner) is puzzled as well. Save for the #35 pilot and the airbox lid, I now have it back to the way he had it.

I'm going to try it with the airbox lid back on (why the heck not, the bike is still warm). And then I'll disconnect the Trail Tech vapor, just incase I'm getting some odd electronical feedback.

Of course, I could also check to see if the petcock screens are clogged, maybe there's not enough fuel getting to the bowl. And hey, how about that CDI?

Gawd !!

Rick
Last edited by AZRickD on 08:06 pm Jul 04 2006, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by AZRickD »

THE CULPRIT.

Image

All that putting on the airbox lid did was rob me of more power -- didn't stop the voops.

So, with a sneaking suspicion that I had been cultivating since I had difficulty powering up the Trail Tech Vapor speedo-tach a few weeks ago, I disconnected both the power lead and the tach lead to the Vapor.

Instant zoom. I mean ZOOM. I rocketed to 9200 without a stutter. I re-connected the Vapor power lead and found the Return of the Voops. I disconnected power lead (it lights up the LCD) and re-connected the tach. Mojo.

I went off to a dead-end road in the desert and attempted a wheelie in first gear. Yeehah.

Then I did the RB Designs sweet spot test and did a second-gear rolling-start wheelie... something I had not been able to accomplish (and, no, Ron, I didn't turn the frickin' screw 1/16th at a time, neither) :butthead: :supz:

I have been robbed of powah for quite some time. Probably a good thing because my throttle control sucks.

I may have a short somewhere that perhaps wasn't there before. Maybe a melted or chaffed wire.

Also, even with the power disconnected to the Vapor, I noticed a electrical buzzing (like a Tenz unit used for physical therapy) on both left and right butt cheeks. I may have an electrical short separate from the Vapor issue. Also, upon the recommendation of Trail Tech, the Vapor was getting its power from the kill switch circuit. Any ideas where I should run the power lead to get some safe power? Without the power, the Vapor will run off of an internal battery. I could always power the backlight off of a small alkaline battery with a switch.

Well. I guess I won't be draining that tank. Anyone want some 5% Toluene 40:1 pre-mix? :blink:

Rick
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Post by canyncarvr »

I am so lost I don't know where to start......

I had no idea what a voop was let alone what could cause it.

But, I would have never guessed the vapor thing plugged into bike ignition power either. THAT is a no-no absolute! Run it off the light circuit, of course (if it will).

And, of course, that's the power part of it, but not the pulse part you need for RPM. But but but...you say there is a tach lead separate? And TrailTech said to hook the thing up to the KILL SWITCH for power???

Sorry. I either have to stick with the 'I'm just lost' part, or start asking some rather pointy questions...like, 'What the HELL are they THINKING!!??

You realize the KDX runs on AC power, right? I mean the lighting circuit is 12VAC, not DC.

If you're NOT turning the air screw 1/16th at a time, then there is still some fine tuning to be done. 'Set it and forget it' doesn't work, neither does yanking it around 1/4 or even 1/8th turns at a time.

Just run the 5%...and then you'll miss it when it's gone! :wink:

As far as the topic name...pump fuel varies hugely...it's basically crap out of a hose.

Good to hear the voops :hmm: are gone!! :boogie:

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This is what happens when an epidemiologist turns wrenches.

Post by AZRickD »

Yes, this thread is becoming quite an education for us all. Glad I could help. :mrgreen:

"Voop" noun. Common usage -- "voop-voop-voop" as in, "My bike was making a rapid voop-voop-voop sound at high RPM."

modifier -- "What the voop is wrong with that KDX?"

To answers CC's puzzlement, the power lead has two wires red to power black to ground. The tach sensor has two leads as well. The red one is "wrap[ped] ten times around the sparkplug wire" for the pulse while the black one goes to ground (the Vapor can be set for 2-stroke or 4-stroke).

The first time I hooked up the power to the Vapor, I snagged a yellow wire that was bullet-connected along the seat rail on the right (I think it was the tail light power). Everything worked fine, except that the RPM readings changed when I flicked the lights on. 12K with the lights off. 6K with the lights on. But no problem with the motor, as far as I recall. Trail Tech tech was puzzled and obviously less than helpful.

After plugging it into the light circuit rendered problems, here is what the tech said via e-mail for my Vapor which was ordered specifically under the "Kawasaki KDX220" listing:
I think you should move the power wire off of the coil and use the kill switch. Or if you can find the power wire coming into the handlebar switch that would be a good place also. Try either one of these options and let me know what you find.
My kingdom for a good schematic and less of a tangle of wires.

I'd bet that light would work just fine with a switched 9v battery.

What kind of RPM should I be getting out of the 2003 KDX220R? I can't trust the Vapor and will have to recalibrate it.

Rick
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Post by canyncarvr »

I'll be looking for your kingdom..in the mail? UPS?

Image

Or you were referring to a wiring schiz? That's in the manual.

1. The yellow wire is unregulated power from the lighting coil.
2. The red wire is regulated power.

#1 can be over 100 volts AC. I would expect most things plugged into it to blow up. That it only ran half-fast (har har) is a good thing.

#2 is around 12VAC at much of any engine speed over idle.

Yellow goes TO the light switch and is switched TO the lighting circuit AND the regulator. The regulator does not run all the time, only when the lights are switched on.
The Tech wrote:
I think you should move the power wire off of the coil and use the kill switch. Or if you can find the power wire coming into the handlebar switch that would be a good place also. Try either one of these options and let me know what you find
'Off' what coil? 'The' coil means what? If he meant to move it off the exciter (spark) coil, that is correct. It should have never been there in the first place. BUT..moving it to the kill circuit is effectively the same thing, so that don't make any sense.

Again, the wire coming INTO the 'handlebar switch' is stupid...unless you want to deal with 100volts!!.

Hook the power of the thing into the red wire that comes OFF the light switch (if it will run on AC). Natch...you'll have to have the lights ON to make it work.

Before you start hooking up this batt and that wire, I'd suggest ASKING the manufacturer what the input is SUPPOSED to be.

What kind of RPM? I don't know. I've never been particularly interested in that number. The KDX (as most engines) does run to a point..and that's it. You're not nearly as likely to mess up a 2-smoke as you are a 4 if you don't pay attention to RPM. As long as it goes to where it goes well (no bogging, voop-voop-vooping or blubbering), it's good.

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Post by canyncarvr »

p.s.
While I understand the words of the definition..I still don't know what it (v-cubed) is.

Something peculiar to a bike running on Vapors I would presume.

'My bike has a bad case of the vapors!'

Yup.

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Post by AZRickD »

Thanks for the input, CC.

Just got this from Trail Tech...
Just as of this morning, I have found out what you are experiencing. Now we
have determined that the best place to install the power cable is directly
off the stator. As I recall did you have a problem with installing it there?
Not exactly. As CC noted, I plugged it into the light circuit. The problem was that the tach would go nutz unless the lights were on (as per CC mentioning regulated vs unregulated power at that source). When the lights were on, all was well.

I'm going to have to be more patient and run my multimeter to find what is truly 12VDC. It's a pretty simple wiring harness (if one were used to wiring harnesses), but much of it is tucked away and tightly wrapped. I'll have to get some time (and cajones) and start slicing the shrink-tubing away.

Rick
I done KX-ed QuailChaser's KDX220R
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Post by Colorado Mike »

you know, I was looking at a trailtech online manual, way back about a month ago, and I thought they had one of those new magical power supplies that can take something like 6-200v AC or DC for an input. I'll try to find that again.
Mike

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Post by Indawoods »

You think that's something... look at what I am dealing with! :shock:

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Post by Indawoods »

This is from the Trail-Tech site...

Power Input :
Includes Power Connection Fits All Machines
Accepts Any Power Input - AC/DC
Auto Switch to Internal Power if External is Removed
Permanent Memory Guarantees Data is Never Lost


It don't need no stinkin' external power! :mrgreen:

Don't know how long it would last but it's an option....
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Post by Colorado Mike »

ok I was way off. 6-200 v, sheesh, sorry. You can tell I been drinking a bit. the real spcs from their site are :
External Power Input: 9.0-400 VAC/VDC Polarity Independant Battery Life: About 1 Year
Mike

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Post by Colorado Mike »

Oh, and Vince, I know Triumphs pretty well, the big black one goes to the spark plug. I think all the other ones go to the "Catastrophic Oil Loss" light.

Your welcome..
Mike

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Post by AZRickD »

I think we've just about killed this thread. :rolleyes:

Thanks for your suggestions. :prayer:

Rick
I done KX-ed QuailChaser's KDX220R
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Post by canyncarvr »

I'm going to have to be more patient and run my multimeter to find what is truly 12VDC.
Hello? Anyone home? knock-knock-a-ding-a-ling-a-ling....?????

DO run your meter looking for 12VDC and you will never find it.

That's 'cuz it isn't there!!

The KDX runs on AC. There is no rectumfriar.

IF the spec says it's good for 400V AC or DC, connecting it to the yellow wire (unregulated lighting coil output) should be fine. Fact of the matter is, your situation shows that NOT to be true.

Yet another example of facts that....aren't.

I thought recognizing that thing as a Triumph was something....'til I noticed it SAYS that on the footpegs........... :roll:

Ha! I'm sure about the COL alarm part, though!!!

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Post by Indawoods »

Oh ye of little faith!

I have owned 3 Trumpets and have never had to clean up oil off the floor after I was done with them. The tolerences are closer than what is commonly believed. This bike is 30 years old and hasn't run in 10 but it will tick over on the second kick on the outside once I get everything sorted. They are great bikes and get more looks than any potatoe thumper! :supz:
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Post by canyncarvr »

what's a potatoe thumper?

Is that anything like a (let me check the card...oh yes!) potato thumper?

Maybe one is red, one is blue?:hmm:

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Post by Indawoods »

Hardleys.... :mrgreen:
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Post by AZRickD »

The KDX runs on AC. There is no rectumfriar.
Forgive my typo. I had 9V battery back-up on my mind.

Rick
I done KX-ed QuailChaser's KDX220R
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