KDXRIDER.NET

Krazy: Would you please... a relatively short primer on the subject?

**edit**

I hadn't looked enough. This is a very good write-up.

Still, I'd like to hear your point of view.

Thanks!
**/edit**

I understand the 'increased volume' part, and the 'off fork' chamber allowing for a higher oil level in the forks and such.

Meter in? Meter how? By orifice size or is it pressure regulated? Does the adjustable knob on top of your cannisters change a pressure point, or the orifice size? I assume the latter. It's much simpler! But...the adjustment isn't exactly easy to get to...upside down and behind the light. Yes? No?

Your setup allows for a 'natural' oil purge (from the off fork res back to the fork) if oil transfer occurs, correct?

What oil level do you run? You want enough air in the fork to compress some without excessive (any?) oil contamination?

Articles I see on the web speak largely in generalities...'improved control' and 'increased adjustability'.

Having built a set I presume you are more intricately familiar with the basics than the generalities?

Thanks!

Meter in? yes, in to the subtank from the fork, so only effecting the compression stroke,using the adjustment knob on the valve to change the orifice size. The main valve has a check valve ,allowing for free flow the opposite direction of the metered flow.Read more at the following web sight

http://www.automation4less.com/flowcontrol.htm

the set up behind the light upside down, after trimming a little plastic,is about as easy to adjust as the steering damper.

oil migration does happen. the upside down valve allows for transfer back in on the up stroke.

I have not changed the oil level or feel a need to.

the first ride was very impressive, the tanks allow for more traction control on the front less air spring resistance and more hydraulic action on the first part of the stroke. sense only so much trapped air can flow out the small hole the fork maintains its working ability on large hits that require a full stroke.

I need more ride time to have a good sense of how well they work.

Thanks.

Please post an update to this post?

And please, a range of adjustment on the valve and its effect?

What is your oil level?

Thanks!

Another question...

The 'one touch' part (push to connect config for the tubing) is sufficient? No need due to the pressure for a ferrule/compression type fitting?

he 'one touch' part (push to connect config for the tubing) is sufficient? No need due to the pressure for a ferrule/compression type fitting?

not yet.

I just built a new set of tanks out of one inch pvc about 4 inches long they fit much better and will test those out this Wed.

I did notice traces of oil in the tanks and valve no signs of any leaks.

the valve has ten turns to open, controlling a 3/16 hole.

I currently have it open 7 turns.



my objective is to see how stiff as far as compression adjustment goes as to how plush the tanks keep it, then adjust the oil level. running .40 springs, oil level at 97mm, 5wt oil in the forks .

Is the adjuster restricted somehow? O-ring, spring-loaded detent, or somesuch?

It won't be moving around?

canyncarvr wrote:Is the adjuster restricted somehow? O-ring, spring-loaded detent, or somesuch?

It won't be moving around?

lock nut on the adjuster stem. there is not alot of harsh shaking on the front that is what the subtank system does the best at eliminating .

I was concerned about my zip tye holding method but nothing moves.

The popper valve is threaded directly into the PVC?

Why not one tank for both forks? Heck, one valve on one tank, too.

Pressure would be equalized in both forks..and maybe that would be a good thing? After equalization, THEN the sub tank would 'fill'.

I'm sure there is a reason to have two of 'em..but what is it?

Another thought: What happens when you tie down your bike? ...maybe you use one of those fork lock/spacer things? It wouldn't take much of a squeeze to push oil into the sub tank, right? But, it would just go back IN when you released the straps?

Now THERE'S a reason one tank wouldn't work.

I use a short 4x4 in the forks when strapping my bike in.

It wouldn't take much of a squeeze to push oil into the sub tank, right? But, it would just go back IN when you released the straps?

thats the main reason.

what I would like to know is why air conditioners go out in the middle of summer and roofs only leak in the rain?

Rode today

opinion and adjustment report .

adjustments made : smaller tanks 1"x4" verses 1 1/4 x4" difference is felt in the adjustment no change after 8 turns out on the small tanks the larger tanks felt more plush at 6 turns out with more compression damping.

the tanks are like the steering damper the only way to tell how well its working is to turn the valves off and then it feels as if something is wrong and you don't know how you rode the bike with out them.

you know that hill you climbed with the root at the top that looks as if it will make your bike loop out if you hit it? The effect of the tanks allows the forks to absorb the blow from the root with out effecting the bike or rider and keep the tire on the ground.

Wow this looks intriguing. Any more input or opinions on this. I'm seriously considering attempting the same thing, maybe a good winter project...

You guys are awesome. I've read through a bunch of your ideas and helps over the last couple of months and it's downright impressive.

I can't lose getting a KDX when there's a kdxrider.net to go to for help!! 'Think I just made up my mind.