Subtanks ?

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krazyinski
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Subtanks ?

Post by krazyinski »

Just like to hear your experience or opinion on subtanks .
2000 KDX220 FRP Ported,plated cylinder,milled head, FRP bored carb, V force 3 reeds, FMF desert pipe, 10oz FWW, 98 KX forks and oem shock re valved by Pro Action, hyd clutch, fastway pegs, tall seat foam, gripper cover, 29" CRhigh mini bars, Cycra brush gaurds.
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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

My take is.... what's the point on a KDX?
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Post by motorhed220 »

what IS a sub tank?
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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

They add extra volume to your fork tubes... makes for a more adjustable suspension.
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Post by motorhed220 »

sounds good? why not put it on a KDX?
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Post by Indawoods »

If you want too... that's fine. I don't think it would be much bang for the buck since the KDX's main purpose is being a woods bike with limited fork travel with the occasional jump here and there.

I guess if you were a class A Harescramble or enduro rider and had sponsors who wanted to fork out the cash for em... sure! Go for it...
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Post by krazyinski »

>|<>QBB<
Indawoods wrote:If you want too... that's fine. I don't think it would be much bang for the buck since the KDX's main purpose is being a woods bike with limited fork travel with the occasional jump here and there.

I guess if you were a class A Harescramble or enduro rider and had sponsors who wanted to fork out the cash for em... sure! Go for it...

thats really my point of asking is if you ride like , class A Harescramble or enduro rider then would they benefit. I have air build up after 2 hours of hard riding and the forks get real harsh and being some what tired I forget this happens till I hit the ground from the front washing out or skipping out. the added factor is temp changes from 65 to 95 in 4-5 hours I start with some what good conditions end with sandy,wooped out,rocky,hard pack, slick conditions.
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Post by skipro3 »

I use fork bleeders: little valve buttons you press to relieve built up air pressure in the forks. They work great! I bleed my forks several times during a ride and it really makes a big difference; especially if you are changing altitude by 1000's of feet during the course of a day's ride. I would recommend bleeders over the subtanks. I read on some forum where a guy built his own subtank. It included photos, materials list, where to get the parts and how to machine them. I think it cost under $100 to build them himself. That might be a fun project if you are into the machining.
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Post by canyncarvr »

The OEM KYBs build pressure up a LOT more than do the USD KYBs.

But, yeah...I have and use bleeders, too.

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Post by scheckaet »

"
I use fork bleeders: little valve buttons you press to relieve built up air pressure in the forks.
Sounds like a pretty simple way to improve the stock fork.
Are those bleeders expansive? and where did you get yours?
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Post by canyncarvr »

MotionPro makes a set that does NOT require retapping the existing hole (where the brass screw is on the top of the fork?). They are a bit tall, but the shorter ones I've seen DO require a different thread.

The MP units work fine. I've had them on for a few years..never a problem with leaking (they have to stay sealed up or you're going to have fork oil all over the place), sticking or anything else.

Cost? Don't recall for sure...round $18 or somesuch?

The difference they made in the OEM KYBs was considerable. I used to think that the bike's underperforming as the day went on was rider-error or fatigue. When I popped in those poppers, I found out different!!

Highly recommended!!

AND..when you strap down your bike, you can use them to take the pressure off the forks...good for seal life.

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Post by krazyinski »

{The difference they made in the OEM KYBs was considerable. I used to think that the bike's underperforming as the day went on was rider-error or fatigue. When I popped in those poppers, I found out different!!} A HA!! so I am not crazy! this is what happens after about 30 miles or so I thought I was just at my physical limit or every thing just stopped working forks steering damper tires, arms, brain.
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Post by Green Hornet »

I use the bleeders also. I throw the bike on the side stand, pull back to extend the forks and let the air out. I do this before I ride and when ever I feel the action is getting stiff.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Something to consider: You can vary the effective oil level with them too. Want a bit lower level? Push the button with the forks compressed some. Want a bit higher level? Either don't let all the pressure out or at the least push the button with the forks full extended.

Oh...just 'cuz the bleeders work doesn't mean you're NOT crazy.... :wink:

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Pro Bleeder Valve

$22.99



Pro Bleeder allows you to bleed the air from your forks with the push of a button
Fits most Kayaba and Showa upside-down forks with OE bleeder screws (M5x0.8)
Set includes two Pro Bleeder valves with adapters, o-rings and instructions (installed height of 7/8" or 22mm

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Post by krazyinski »

looked into building subtanks all the parts are only 88$ so I might just do it for the heck of it. mean while the bleeders are a must.
2000 KDX220 FRP Ported,plated cylinder,milled head, FRP bored carb, V force 3 reeds, FMF desert pipe, 10oz FWW, 98 KX forks and oem shock re valved by Pro Action, hyd clutch, fastway pegs, tall seat foam, gripper cover, 29" CRhigh mini bars, Cycra brush gaurds.
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Post by krazyinski »

built the sub tanks out of pvc got the valves from a pneumatic control company installed them upside down so the oil gets sucked back in to the forks. total of about 46 bucks. they really make the front feel stuck to the ground smooths out the ride, any thing under 8"round or square on the ground just disappears.
I am running .40 springs on re-valved OEM forks I might add that I am 160 lb guy. The sub tanks make the forks feel as if the springs are softer, plush ride, front tracks and doesn't hop under heavy breaking in a chopped up corner, woops are a breeze, I played with compression adjustment turned them in 4 clicks and could only tell the difference on the big hits. best 50 bucks and hour of my time spent.

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2000 KDX220 FRP Ported,plated cylinder,milled head, FRP bored carb, V force 3 reeds, FMF desert pipe, 10oz FWW, 98 KX forks and oem shock re valved by Pro Action, hyd clutch, fastway pegs, tall seat foam, gripper cover, 29" CRhigh mini bars, Cycra brush gaurds.
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Post by Indawoods »

Pretty cool! :mrgreen:
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Post by m0rie »

Pretty cool. Do you have a materials list for those of us playing the home game?
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Post by quailchaser »

Sweet! :mrgreen: That's a great price for noticable improvement in handling! :supz:
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Post by krazyinski »

>|<>QBB<
m0rie wrote:Pretty cool. Do you have a materials list for those of us playing the home game?


Try looking for a Pneumatic controls company locally. The main valve is 1/4 onetouch tube X 1/4 NPT meter in, flow control valve with freeflow back. ( The valve must be meter in to the tank free flow back
most comon is meter out free flow in.)
part # NAS3211F-N02-07S. meter in, flow control valve

The 90 is 1/4 tube x 1/8 unifit
#KQ2L07-U01

but from experience get a 1/4 x 10-32 unifit extended elbo #?

The tanks are 1 1/4
SCH40 pvc pipe, a coupling,cap, and 1 1/4 to 3/4 bushing with a brass 3/4 to 1/4 bushing.

( I just built and tested smaller tanks using 1" PVC cost is 7 bucks They work the same but are easyer to mount)

The company I got the valves from is Control Resources out of Salisbury,NC 704-639-0207.

If you want to look pretty you can get yourself a set of the same tanks that aircell racing has for 15-20 a piece they are made by Bimba manufacturing they are called Air Reservoir Tanks.
Bimba part #d-27715-a-4.
2000 KDX220 FRP Ported,plated cylinder,milled head, FRP bored carb, V force 3 reeds, FMF desert pipe, 10oz FWW, 98 KX forks and oem shock re valved by Pro Action, hyd clutch, fastway pegs, tall seat foam, gripper cover, 29" CRhigh mini bars, Cycra brush gaurds.
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