What fork springs are in 2005 KDX 200
Posted: 07:53 pm Jun 22 2006
Does anybody know what type of fork springs for what weight person are in the 05 KDX 200?
and are proly good for up to #135KDXRIDER.NET
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What fork springs are in 2005 KDX 200
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Posted: 08:15 pm Jun 22 2006
The springs are of the spiral type! and are proly good for up to #135
and are proly good for up to #135Posted: 08:45 pm Jun 22 2006
yeah, as you probably have noticed, the front and rear spring rates are not matched at all. Honda XR400 springs work pretty well. Better yet is changing to KX forks, but is a lot more hassle. You can swap the springs for somewhere around $70.00 . While you're at it, flush out the pond scum Kawy calls "fork oil" and put some real stuff in. Grease your steering head bearings too.
Posted: 09:57 pm Jun 22 2006
The stock fork springs are .35 kg/mm which are suited for 130 to 140 lb riders.
Here is how I did my forks and I love them. best forks I ever had. I got the idea from a post on the DRN board, I can't remember who posted the mods. I changed some of the original stuff like spring and oil height, but the gem of the mod is removing the two shims in the valve body.
Eibach 996 series aftermarket XR springs, they measured 512mm in length. These are .43 kg/mm rated, yes I know they are heavy, I weigh 185 in gear, but follow along below. The idea is "stiffly sprung, softly valved".
Removed the first two shims of the compression valve stack (you must take apart the forks and get to the valve body on the bottom)
7.5WT Bel Ray 120mm from the top.
Cut 42mm off of the stock preload spacers on a cut off wheel, make sure they are very even and square. This gave me the same fork pre load as stock
I run the clickers at 16-18 out still, depending on the terrain. With the forks set up like this, I can hit square edge stuff and it just soaks up the hit. I also lightly MX my bike, and they can take a hard landing without bottoming with a clunk, or even bottoming at all.
Tech tip: To remove the valve body to do the shims, you must use an air gun to quickly unscrew the body from the bottom of the fork. If you don't get it unscrewed fast enough, it will just spin on the cartridge.
If this happens, pull off your rear axle bolt and nut, then thread the nut all the way down onto the axle. place the axle (nut side down) into the top of the fork until it catches on the top of the cartridge. The hole in the axle will clear the vent/ rebound rod. Then use a 22m socket to hold the cartridge while you unscrew the valve body at the bottom. ( I learned this the hard way)
Here is how I did my forks and I love them. best forks I ever had. I got the idea from a post on the DRN board, I can't remember who posted the mods. I changed some of the original stuff like spring and oil height, but the gem of the mod is removing the two shims in the valve body.
Eibach 996 series aftermarket XR springs, they measured 512mm in length. These are .43 kg/mm rated, yes I know they are heavy, I weigh 185 in gear, but follow along below. The idea is "stiffly sprung, softly valved".
Removed the first two shims of the compression valve stack (you must take apart the forks and get to the valve body on the bottom)
7.5WT Bel Ray 120mm from the top.
Cut 42mm off of the stock preload spacers on a cut off wheel, make sure they are very even and square. This gave me the same fork pre load as stock
I run the clickers at 16-18 out still, depending on the terrain. With the forks set up like this, I can hit square edge stuff and it just soaks up the hit. I also lightly MX my bike, and they can take a hard landing without bottoming with a clunk, or even bottoming at all.
Tech tip: To remove the valve body to do the shims, you must use an air gun to quickly unscrew the body from the bottom of the fork. If you don't get it unscrewed fast enough, it will just spin on the cartridge.
If this happens, pull off your rear axle bolt and nut, then thread the nut all the way down onto the axle. place the axle (nut side down) into the top of the fork until it catches on the top of the cartridge. The hole in the axle will clear the vent/ rebound rod. Then use a 22m socket to hold the cartridge while you unscrew the valve body at the bottom. ( I learned this the hard way)
Posted: 10:50 pm Jun 22 2006
Sounds like some pretty good advice Bailey....