KDXRIDER.NET

alright, thanks will update after i get my forks on the bike.

I think you need to have done a few slow ones before diving into the rapid break-in without fear of blowing your new top-end up. During rapid break-in I swear you can kind of feel the rings starting to seal, and I think you need a fair amount of experience to be 'one' with the motor like that. I can say that pro racers either break-in their motors on a dyno or on the track during practice...all rapidly. It's not a matter of 'how long' the process is, but 'how good' your ring seal ends up being that makes the rapid break-in an option at all.

Quail, how does your bike run? I was sketchy until I tried my first one, and now wouldn't break-in an engine differently. After pulling several top-ends where the piston still looked like new I know that the rapid break-in didn't cause any damage. On a kart motor I've felt the difference in power between the two methods(seat dyno)..The motor had higher comp #'s with rapid break-in, and the #'s stayed higher longer....

On the fast break-in...

It's either going to seat or blow your rings out.... it has no choice.

I don't think I would try it on an unproven cylinder... (like a new one)

But on a rebuilt one where you scuffed it, mic'd it, bought a replacement piston and rings.... I'd give it a go...

fuzzy wrote: Quail, how does your bike run? I was sketchy until I tried my first one, and now wouldn't break-in an engine differently.

This was the first time I've done the "rapid" method. It was a matter of going on a ride or not...they've been few and far between this season. The KX runs fine...much better than I can actually ride it. I don't really have "seat of the pants" base line for this bike or a dyno and I have not pulled it down since...so, I couldn't tell you if it is any better or worse than the slow method. It runs and didn't blow up...works for me!

I'm not sure if I'll break it in "slow" or "fast" next time. If I was worried about getting the most I could out of the machine for competition reasons...I'd take the time to determine which method worked the "best". The KX had plenty of power on the worn top end for my riding abilities and desires. It definately has more now...

Later
Robb

I agree with skipping step 1 also. Really the idle thing is more about the main bearing running in after a bottom end rebuild.

FWIW - The piston and rings need to be loaded in order to seal well. I do 3 heat cycles myself - your numbers 2, 3, and 5 then run it like I normally would without but without going WOT for more than 4-5 seconds for a tank of fuel.

Good Luck Ryan - Glad your getting it together. Remember to keep the rubber side down!!!

thanks, i will take your advice then and skip step one. Only having a small radiator mounting problem and thats it. I ordered a set of forks and if all goes will i should be breaking it in by wednesday. Thanks again for all your help.

i should change the oil right after the break in right?

Yeah, two seperate compartments, but surely wouldn't hurt.

well since i am getting everything done rather quickly, i was just wondering a few torque values if someone has them. I would like to know the axel nut torque value and the two bolts that clamp the axel in the forks. I also need the upper and lower triple tree torque values. Thanks for any help.

The uper and lower tree's you should start at 12ft lbs and work your way down until there is no binding on the forks.