Fmf pipe fitment and break in

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Ryan
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Fmf pipe fitment and break in

Post by Ryan »

Well ive been work for about 3 hours today and 2 yesterday on gettting my pipe to fit. I am having two problems, i cant get the both of those o ring gaskets inside the cylinder. I can get all of one in but not all of the other, second the little rubber thing that mounts the pipe to the frame (near the gas tank) does not match up well at all. I have bent the tab but it still is a poor fitment. The rubber part is tearing and being held together by tape and super glue.

Do others have this same problem, or is it just me??


Also, i dont have my forks yet but i was wondering if i could start the break in. It is only on a stand. I dont know how you are suppose to break in a top end. Are you suppose to let it idle for a while? I am asking because i can let it idle on the stand for as long as it needs to and then do the rest of the break in this weekend after i get my forks. Thanks
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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

Loosen the mounting tabs already! :shock:

No need to bend and tear anything... loosen those tabs completely.... slide the pipe in all the way and then turn your mounting tabs to the frame mounts ...slide them in and secure with the nuts.

And no... don't try to start breaking it in until you can ride it.
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Post by Ryan »

i did losen everything, all the bolts were about to fall out cause they were so loose. Is there anything elese i can do??
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Post by Indawoods »

Yeah...take pictures of your dilema...
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Post by Colorado Mike »

The FMF pipes in my limited experience (1 pipe) are pretty bad for fit. But, it should go on. You don't have the silencer on do you? What I ended up doing on mine the first time I put it on was get it in place, then I used the handles of some rubber covered channel locks against the frame, to pry the pipe into the cylinder opening.

It needs to seat all the way, but you knew that. the copper spacer needs to be in there too, but you knew that too.

The second time I wrassled with that thing, I took a shot-filled mallet and wanged the side of the pipe that interferes with whatever it is that it interferes with . That made it a little easier.

Then I made a mental note to check into a Pro Circuit pipe next time.
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Post by wanaride »

Wow, either I was lucky or I don't have my pipe on correctly, because all I had to do was loosen the mounting tabs and install the pipe.
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Post by kdennan »

Just about a minute on and off, every time. (FMF Gnarly, Desert)
No problem.
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Post by Ryan »

i know it has to seat all of the way, i will take pictures and post them on a in little while.
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Post by Ryan »

well you can kinda see were the pipe doesnt fit into the cylinder that well and were the other piece mounts to frame.

you can kinda see how it is stretched, i tried to add washers on the bottom were the pipe is... it did help a bit but not much.

http://img139.imagevenue.com/img.php?lo ... f_pipe.jpg


http://img150.imagevenue.com/img.php?lo ... linder.jpg
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Post by Indawoods »

OK Ryan... you first concern is getting that pipe into the cylinder.

You may have to see what the angle of the inlet is and align it more with a pry-bar wrapped in shop towels so you don't damage the mating surface. Those pipes can be pretty darn hard to bend too....

If you have a large vise, they can help out with holding the pipe while you make your adjustments.

**EDIT**

Read this... it explains it with pictures and everything! :wink:

https://www.piperepair.com/tips.htm
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Post by Green Hornet »

Ryan use a RUBBER MALLET. Also, you DO NOT HAVE A TORQUE SPACER IN THERE, DO YOU??
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Post by Ryan »

nope no torque spacer, just the copper washer. I am gonna try to bend the pipe though following those directions i will let you all know how it goes.
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Um, what coppoer washer?

Post by Mark W »

Is this something that would have been jammed in the exhaust port and something I wouldn't have seen when I took off the stock pipe and fit the new desert pipe on? Did I mess somthing else up?
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Post by Indawoods »

Where'd you come from Mark??? :lol:
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Post by Ryan »

i dont think so i guess some of the fmf pipes have a really crapy fit. Well, ive havnet had the time to try to fix the pipe as i have been looking for a bike for my cousin. I also just got the seals into my kx forks with a piece of Pvc pipe and to think the dealer would have charged me $120!!! Ha. I will try after i come back from work at about 8 or so.
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Post by Ryan »

alright i got it to fit very well by sticking it in the vice and bending it a bit.



Now as far as breaking in the top end, could someone lead me in the right direction, can it be done in one day?? thanks
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Post by fuzzy »

It can be done in a day.....Or in about 1/2 an hour.....Depending on method. I usually recommend the slow method, but practice the rapid method. I have done many, many slow ones in the past though. Search on break-in and you'll find several threads talking about it. :supz:
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Post by Ryan »

alright i have read some threads on break in, please let me know if this sounds right.

1. Ok, first i let the bike idle without moving or riding it with the occasional blimp of the throttle no more than 1/4 rpms. I do this for about 5 to 8 minutes then let it cool down completly.

2. After this i ride the bike on a level surface aka my front yard for about 10 minutes varying the throttle and not staying at a constant speed to long only bring the rmps to no more than 1/3. Then let the bike cool completely.

3. After the bike has cooled ride it again with no more than 1/2 throttle but start to give it some gas and vary the rmps without too much of a load. Around 10 minutes for this step. Let cool completly

4. After it has cooled repeat steps 1-3

5. After that run the bike up to 3/4 throttle for 10 minutes going through all the gears and giving it a good load but not too much.

6. Run the bike at 3/4 throttle but give get the Rpms fairly high to set the rings while putting a good load on the motor (accelerate fast).

If there is something wrong with what i said please let me know, and what do i do after step 6?? thanks
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Post by Indawoods »

Sounds about right...

After step 6... ride it like you stole it. It is broke in....
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Post by quailchaser »

As Vince said..."Sounds about right..."

I usually skip your step #1. I always seem to end up breaking in a new bike/top end here in the summer. The thought of letting the bike idle with little or no air flow across the radiators for long periods (5 to 8 minutes) just doesn't seem right. Of course it's 115 degrees in the shade and about 130 in the garage here!.

The key in the "slow" method is to run the bike through 4 or 5 heat cycles. Warming the bike up completely and gradually adding and varying more load each cycle.

From Fuzzy's post...It appears that I to am recommending the slow method, but used his method (rapid) on my last break-in. :shock:
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