KIPS questions?

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krazyinski
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KIPS questions?

Post by krazyinski »

The question is about oil seeping from the kips govenor rod ? is this normal or not? now for the information to properly answer this Question. it is not alot of oil and it is two stroke oil. my ratio is 40:1 golden spectro. It is a 2000 KDX 220 with a fresh engine with 50hrs on it Fredette built the engine top and bottom. plated cylinder, ported, milled head, carb bored to 36 mm, FMF woods pipe. jetted with a 155 main 45 pilot, dem needle 2nd from the top, air screw 3 turns out to 2.5 depending on temp change. riding conditions south texas 700 ft above sea level, temps range from 75-95 degrees low to high same day humidity is 50-80%. tight 2nd 3rd gear woods riding.the bike runs fine smooth power very little or no splatter out the pipe. the end is slight damp at the end of the day. the idle falls off when the bike gets hot. the plug is a tan in color on the isolator and electrode and oil black on the outer housing. would a 42 pilot have an effect on this unburned oil leaking from the kips rod? I hate having oil on the engine at this time it is more of an eye sore than anything.
Last edited by krazyinski on 10:18 pm Jun 04 2006, edited 1 time in total.
2000 KDX220 FRP Ported,plated cylinder,milled head, FRP bored carb, V force 3 reeds, FMF desert pipe, 10oz FWW, 98 KX forks and oem shock re valved by Pro Action, hyd clutch, fastway pegs, tall seat foam, gripper cover, 29" CRhigh mini bars, Cycra brush gaurds.
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Post by Green Hornet »

If you had removed that seal during disassembly, the KDX manual advises you should replace the activator shaft rod seal. Did you check to see if it is seated in place correctly??
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Post by krazyinski »

>|<>QBB<
Green Hornet wrote:If you had removed that seal during disassembly, the KDX manual advises you should replace the activator shaft rod seal. Did you check to see if it is seated in place correctly??
well no I did not because Fredette assembled the engine. after inspection pulling the pipe activator cover from the head it is definitely two stroke oil or spooge running out of the KIPS valve area, I did notice the pipe is carbon black on the inside at the joint. on another note I did put a 42 pilot in today warmed it up around the yard 95 degrees here today and 90% humidity so it doesnt take long. adjusted the air screw to sensing idle drop now at 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 cant test it till next week.
2000 KDX220 FRP Ported,plated cylinder,milled head, FRP bored carb, V force 3 reeds, FMF desert pipe, 10oz FWW, 98 KX forks and oem shock re valved by Pro Action, hyd clutch, fastway pegs, tall seat foam, gripper cover, 29" CRhigh mini bars, Cycra brush gaurds.
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Post by krazyinski »

>|<>QBB<
Green Hornet wrote:If you had removed that seal during disassembly, the KDX manual advises you should replace the activator shaft rod seal. Did you check to see if it is seated in place correctly??
there are three seals one on the right side cylinder on the center shaft one on the right case cover where the govnor rod goes in the cover and on on the left side of the cylinder on the center shaft. can the center shaft come out with out tearing down the top end?
2000 KDX220 FRP Ported,plated cylinder,milled head, FRP bored carb, V force 3 reeds, FMF desert pipe, 10oz FWW, 98 KX forks and oem shock re valved by Pro Action, hyd clutch, fastway pegs, tall seat foam, gripper cover, 29" CRhigh mini bars, Cycra brush gaurds.
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Post by canyncarvr »

re: 'Is this normal'

It's not UNnormal if your bike runs 'wet'...for whatever reason.

It's also not UNnormal to have seal damage on the RH subport drum activating shaft due to an incorrect (read: poorly prepared) replate job.

re: 'w/o tearing down the top end?'

You can access the KIPS parts without removing the cylinder...but it's a considerable PITA working around the frame.

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Post by Green Hornet »

"the right case cover where the govnor rod goes in the cover"
Thats the aseal I was talking about. Also, as carvr said, it is a PITA to work on the KIPS w/o removing the cylinder. All the time you will waste, trying to work around stuff, it will probably be jaust a quick and easier to take the cylinder off. imo
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Post by Indawoods »

But cost you more.... :wink:
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Post by krazyinski »

the Service Manual does not mark or name the seals, I found them from the parts diagram there was a little confusion on my part at first. I have the whole picture now ,thanks !! I was trying to find out the easy way and IT looks as if pulling the cylinder is it. For now it will be a leak till I find some down time. by the way CC CALM DOWN , not everybody knows every thing about everything. this is why we are asking. And asking the local dealer shur dont help, those guys are doing good just to put a light bulb in.
2000 KDX220 FRP Ported,plated cylinder,milled head, FRP bored carb, V force 3 reeds, FMF desert pipe, 10oz FWW, 98 KX forks and oem shock re valved by Pro Action, hyd clutch, fastway pegs, tall seat foam, gripper cover, 29" CRhigh mini bars, Cycra brush gaurds.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Calm down? Was I riled over something? I thought I (rather directly at that) just answered your questions.

I don't know that 'Fredette built..' means replate, but I know he uses US Chrome Wisconsin..and those folks have some problems doing their job, imo. I am assuming your cylinder was replated in this discussion.

No, the part isn't called out..kind'a like a lot of stuff..base valve o-rings, kickstand bolts.....

If you're taking the cylinder off, DO take a look at the hole the RH subport drum activating shaft rides in. It may have some leftovers stuck in it from the re-plate, AND replace the 'seal' on that shaft. I don't know (knowing very little about almost no thing myself :wink: ) exactly what that 'seal' is. The parts list shows some 'packing' around that area, but not specifically pointing to the groove on the shaft as I recall. I've heard people that should know call for an o-ring to be placed there..but mine sure didn't look like an o-ring to me.

If you find out what it is supposed to be, let us know.

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Post by krazyinski »

Well after a day of riding with the 42 pilot jet it appears as if the spooge leaking from the kips is a result of a rich condition. oh! and fredette built in my case means he did all his magic and put the thing together. so there is alot of unknown to me. I like doing my own work but the guy I got the bike from didn't. The power is so smooth it sneaks up on you before you know it.
2000 KDX220 FRP Ported,plated cylinder,milled head, FRP bored carb, V force 3 reeds, FMF desert pipe, 10oz FWW, 98 KX forks and oem shock re valved by Pro Action, hyd clutch, fastway pegs, tall seat foam, gripper cover, 29" CRhigh mini bars, Cycra brush gaurds.
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Post by Indawoods »

Goes to show you just how important jetting can be. Glad you got it sorted! :supz:
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