2002 KDX220R - To Split or Not to Split

[stnd]

Hi,

Winter is coming and I thought I wanted to rebuild my KDX. Yesterday I started tearing it down but did a compression test and it clocked in at 150PSI which i believe is pretty good.

The reason I wanted to tear into it is because I thought the right crank seal is leaking since my boot keeps getting oil sprayed onto it and oil is leaking out of the clutch cover where the lever goes into it. I read that the only reason it should spray out is when pressure escapes the main chamber through a leaking seal.

Really not sure what to do at this point. Leave it be, or tear in and replace everything. I have 60 hours of trail riding on it, and don't know the bike history. Power delivery is good, but the leaking always bugs me.

Any advice?

[SS109]

Hmm, maybe you should just R&R the right side case cover and throw all new gaskets and seals on that side and see how it goes. How's your plug look? Do you foul plugs? Does it excessively smoke?

[kdxdazz]

Hi,

Winter is coming and I thought I wanted to rebuild my KDX. Yesterday I started tearing it down but did a compression test and it clocked in at 150PSI which i believe is pretty good.

The reason I wanted to tear into it is because I thought the right crank seal is leaking since my boot keeps getting oil sprayed onto it and oil is leaking out of the clutch cover where the lever goes into it. I read that the only reason it should spray out is when pressure escapes the main chamber through a leaking seal.

Really not sure what to do at this point. Leave it be, or tear in and replace everything. I have 60 hours of trail riding on it, and don't know the bike history. Power delivery is good, but the leaking always bugs me.

Any advice?

who ever wrote about the pressure of the leaking seal doesn't know what he is talking about, the gearbox is vented and never pressurized, i would just change all the external seals and enjoy it, cheap and easy, if you do a rebuild later down the track then the seals are already changed anyway, then you only have crank seals to change

[stnd]

Hmm, maybe you should just R&R the right side case cover and throw all new gaskets and seals on that side and see how it goes. How's your plug look? Do you foul plugs? Does it excessively smoke?

The plug has never fouled on me. I'm running on the same plug for a few years now.

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[stnd]

Hi,

Winter is coming and I thought I wanted to rebuild my KDX. Yesterday I started tearing it down but did a compression test and it clocked in at 150PSI which i believe is pretty good.

The reason I wanted to tear into it is because I thought the right crank seal is leaking since my boot keeps getting oil sprayed onto it and oil is leaking out of the clutch cover where the lever goes into it. I read that the only reason it should spray out is when pressure escapes the main chamber through a leaking seal.

Really not sure what to do at this point. Leave it be, or tear in and replace everything. I have 60 hours of trail riding on it, and don't know the bike history. Power delivery is good, but the leaking always bugs me.

Any advice?

who ever wrote about the pressure of the leaking seal doesn't know what he is talking about, the gearbox is vented and never pressurized, i would just change all the external seals and enjoy it, cheap and easy, if you do a rebuild later down the track then the seals are already changed anyway, then you only have crank seals to change

Hope you are right, I will proceed this way for now. Also I wonder if I would be able to see if a seal is leaking by taking off the clutch cover side of things first. I just want to stop any leaks. The KIPS cover is also leaking.

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[kdx633]

I know pictures can be deceiving but are those little globs of aluminium on the plug?

[stnd]

I know pictures can be deceiving but are those little globs of aluminium on the plug?

I will double check, but pretty sure it is just carbon deposits. I zoomed it too much with a flashlight on it.

[bufftester]

The clutch actuator leak is a simple seal. The leak around the KIPS cover on the LH side of the engine is also an O-ring. Just looks like the bike has not been given preventative maintenance for a bit. With 150 psi compression IIWM I would replace those seals like SS109 and kdxazz suggested and ride it until it really needs service.

[stnd]

The clutch actuator leak is a simple seal. The leak around the KIPS cover on the LH side of the engine is also an O-ring. Just looks like the bike has not been given preventative maintenance for a bit. With 150 psi compression IIWM I would replace those seals like SS109 and kdxazz suggested and ride it until it really needs service.

Thanks for the advice. Do you know what the seal on the clutch actuator is? Looking at the fiche I don't see any seal. Found it. 92049-1262

https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemp ... 387/clutch

[bufftester]

The clutch actuator leak is a simple seal. The leak around the KIPS cover on the LH side of the engine is also an O-ring. Just looks like the bike has not been given preventative maintenance for a bit. With 150 psi compression IIWM I would replace those seals like SS109 and kdxazz suggested and ride it until it really needs service.

Thanks for the advice. Do you know what the seal on the clutch actuator is? Looking at the fiche I don't see any seal. Found it. 92049-1262

https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemp ... 387/clutch

Yep, and the O-ring for the other side is 670B2022

[Chuck78]

You can pressure test the crankcase if you make up a basic test gauge setup and compression plug (Dorman expansion plug from auto parts store) to plug the exhaust port. 5psi pressure max and do a couple minute leakdown test. If it bleeds down pressure quickly, spray all gaskets seals and case joints and studs with soapy water and look for bubbles.