Lighting coil output
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Lighting coil output
Can anyone tell me what the voltage output on a stock 99 KDX200 is? am busy looking into a DS kit for the bike
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
- m0rie
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- Indawoods
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If you are running anything other than stock KDX equipment... It will need rewound.
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"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
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- m0rie
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You'll pick up a little more low end pull and stall resistance with a high output lighting coil as well.
1989 KDX 200
2007 TTR-50E
2007 TTR-50E
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re: 'My lighting coil spits out ..'
Probably not.
Maybe you are measuring it incorrectly? If not, you have a problem.
But...if not...all your lights are blowed up, too.
Wait...you have a non-regulated bike?
Either way, a 12V light will not run on 30V. Not long enough anyway!
Probably not.
Maybe you are measuring it incorrectly? If not, you have a problem.
But...if not...all your lights are blowed up, too.
Wait...you have a non-regulated bike?
Either way, a 12V light will not run on 30V. Not long enough anyway!
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But it WILL be BRIGHT while it's on!
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Notice that light bulbs are rated only with voltage, but not current? You don't see, '12VDC/3 amps'. Such a listing indicates that the bulb will draw three amps, but the amperage (current) isn't a factor in the specification of the bulb.
You can't make a working light bulb take more current than it wants to. Take all the power that Bonneville (a power plant on the Columbia River) can put out, hook up one 60W light bulb...and it will just light up like it's supposed to. The fact that there are a few brazillion amps available from Bonneville doesn't mean they are all going to try to go through that one bulb.
Voltage is listed on bulbs because, unlike current, it does matter.
Ever see a common household light bulb listed as 'long life'? Chances are it is rated at 130 volts. It WILL last longer than your average 120 volt rated bulb...but look at the output (lumens). The 130V bulb puts out LESS light than the 120V bulb!
Just as an 'overrated' voltage bulb puts out LESS light (measured in lumens) than a 'correctly' rated bulb, so does an underrated bulb put out MORE light than a 'correctly' rated bulb.
And...as the overrated bulb lasts longer, the underrated bulb will last a SHORTER time.
The output of the KDX lighting system is over 12 volts...kind'a like your car, IT'S output is considerably over 12 volts (the rating of all the bulbs in the vehicle) too.
Obviously a supply voltage 5% over spec won't immediately blow up stuff. But....put 30 volts on a 12 volt spec bulb? It will light up...more of a flash bulb kind'a thing.
...if you've ever even seen a flash bulb? Yanno...like Blue Dot Cubes?
Or:
The reason the KDX light coil cannot run 70 watts of stuff (lights or otherwise) is because it cannot supply the current required at the voltage specified. At 35 watts into 12 volts you get approximately 3 amps (P=IE..Power=Current times Voltage..3Ax12V=36W). As soon as you put more than a 3 amp load on the system, the voltage starts to drop.
And what happens with the voltage drops below the rating of the bulb? As noted above...its output is reduced, it gets less bright. More dim, even!
BTW...the output of the lighting coil is a function of the thickness of the wire used and the number of wraps there are around the pole pieces. Said coil is 'excited' by the magnetic field of the rotor (measured in Gauss) that rotates around the coil. The two coil factors work closely together. If you use 1/2" thick wire, you will have a large current capability, but you don't have enough room to put on enough wraps to get 12 volts. How tightly the winding is done also effects the output of the coil. It is possible to remove the existing wire, rewind it 'better' and add another 10 watts to the KDX coil. I wouldn't suggest trying that if you tend to get dipping sauce on your tie when you eat your onion rings at lunch.
Did I mention that I simply bought another coil? I didn't rewind mine.
RickyStator will fix you up with whatever you need...just ask.
If you don't know what a flash cube is, maybe you don't know what a tie is, either?
Now then...about LPs.......
You can't make a working light bulb take more current than it wants to. Take all the power that Bonneville (a power plant on the Columbia River) can put out, hook up one 60W light bulb...and it will just light up like it's supposed to. The fact that there are a few brazillion amps available from Bonneville doesn't mean they are all going to try to go through that one bulb.
Voltage is listed on bulbs because, unlike current, it does matter.
Ever see a common household light bulb listed as 'long life'? Chances are it is rated at 130 volts. It WILL last longer than your average 120 volt rated bulb...but look at the output (lumens). The 130V bulb puts out LESS light than the 120V bulb!
Just as an 'overrated' voltage bulb puts out LESS light (measured in lumens) than a 'correctly' rated bulb, so does an underrated bulb put out MORE light than a 'correctly' rated bulb.
And...as the overrated bulb lasts longer, the underrated bulb will last a SHORTER time.
The output of the KDX lighting system is over 12 volts...kind'a like your car, IT'S output is considerably over 12 volts (the rating of all the bulbs in the vehicle) too.
Obviously a supply voltage 5% over spec won't immediately blow up stuff. But....put 30 volts on a 12 volt spec bulb? It will light up...more of a flash bulb kind'a thing.
...if you've ever even seen a flash bulb? Yanno...like Blue Dot Cubes?
Or:
CM wrote:..your bulb will be very bright for the 120 milliseconds it takes to burn out at that voltage.
The reason the KDX light coil cannot run 70 watts of stuff (lights or otherwise) is because it cannot supply the current required at the voltage specified. At 35 watts into 12 volts you get approximately 3 amps (P=IE..Power=Current times Voltage..3Ax12V=36W). As soon as you put more than a 3 amp load on the system, the voltage starts to drop.
And what happens with the voltage drops below the rating of the bulb? As noted above...its output is reduced, it gets less bright. More dim, even!
BTW...the output of the lighting coil is a function of the thickness of the wire used and the number of wraps there are around the pole pieces. Said coil is 'excited' by the magnetic field of the rotor (measured in Gauss) that rotates around the coil. The two coil factors work closely together. If you use 1/2" thick wire, you will have a large current capability, but you don't have enough room to put on enough wraps to get 12 volts. How tightly the winding is done also effects the output of the coil. It is possible to remove the existing wire, rewind it 'better' and add another 10 watts to the KDX coil. I wouldn't suggest trying that if you tend to get dipping sauce on your tie when you eat your onion rings at lunch.
Did I mention that I simply bought another coil? I didn't rewind mine.
RickyStator will fix you up with whatever you need...just ask.
If you don't know what a flash cube is, maybe you don't know what a tie is, either?
Now then...about LPs.......
Last edited by canyncarvr on 03:49 pm Jun 01 2006, edited 1 time in total.
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I put a LED in the tail light yesterday. Now the Headlight is nice & bright again. I was using a 15watt or something like that in the rear instead of the OEM 2,3,4 watt or whatever. Got at autozone for $16 for a pair.
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It's an 1156 bulb style. I've seen them listed (that I've bought) as '1156L'. Anyone working at an auto parts store should know what an 1156 style LED bulb is.
Outfits that make them in different colors/viewing angles and brightness (actual # of LEDs in the unit) will have to denote those specs with something other than an 'L', 'eh?
The LED units I've used didn't stand up to vibration at all...I ended up with lots-a-bits-o-pieces banging around under the taillight lens.
...not that you asked me anything about it...
Outfits that make them in different colors/viewing angles and brightness (actual # of LEDs in the unit) will have to denote those specs with something other than an 'L', 'eh?
The LED units I've used didn't stand up to vibration at all...I ended up with lots-a-bits-o-pieces banging around under the taillight lens.
...not that you asked me anything about it...
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1156 type in the LED Style. 1156L (Color)red,white yada, yadarollerman wrote:hey g.h. do you have the bulb number for led bulb?
I noticed it was RED after I bought, but it does luminate fine. I'll see how the vibration effects the bulb. I have to re-seal the lens assembly, so dirt & water is harder to get in. Also, it cuts down on that lens rattle. Carvr has done the same thing. Just let the sealant harden abit before putting the lens on, otherwise it is a PIA to get off.
"Growing Old is Mandatory, Growing Up is Optional"
2008 KLX450R
2008 DRZ400SM
2005 KDX 220R
1985 KDX 200A3
2005 KLX 125L (SONS)
2003 KTM 50SX Pro Jr
B Senior # 254/0092
http://sponsorhouse.loopd.com/Members/R ... fault.aspx
Thanks to my 2008 Sponsers:
Dunlop, SteelMX, Amsoil, Simpson, Pro Works Racing, Pro Moto Billet, SLAP Energy,Boyesen, Rhino Stands, SixSixOne/SunLine Moto for your support.
John W Read Jr
2008 KLX450R
2008 DRZ400SM
2005 KDX 220R
1985 KDX 200A3
2005 KLX 125L (SONS)
2003 KTM 50SX Pro Jr
B Senior # 254/0092
http://sponsorhouse.loopd.com/Members/R ... fault.aspx
Thanks to my 2008 Sponsers:
Dunlop, SteelMX, Amsoil, Simpson, Pro Works Racing, Pro Moto Billet, SLAP Energy,Boyesen, Rhino Stands, SixSixOne/SunLine Moto for your support.
John W Read Jr
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I did the LED Auto Zone light thing for my Harley tail light a couple of years ago - the bulb did not last long on the vibration monster.
Went to Rocky Mountain ATV catalog and ordered one for ATVs and that worked fine for 2500 miles and is still working. (Well I did just replace it with a whole LED taillight assembly only due to the fact that I wanted as much tail light brightness as possible)
Went to Rocky Mountain ATV catalog and ordered one for ATVs and that worked fine for 2500 miles and is still working. (Well I did just replace it with a whole LED taillight assembly only due to the fact that I wanted as much tail light brightness as possible)
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KDX 200 Mark's
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EC 300 Tyson's
WR430 Husky - mine