Lighting Coil Questions

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KDXGarage
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Lighting Coil Questions

Post by KDXGarage »

Hi. Recently, cicone had a thread about ordering a stator ignition coil from http://www.rickystator.com, so that got me to thinking about lighting coils. On their website, they have a 65 watt lighting coil for the 1983 - 1988 KDX200's. On the 1989 and newer KDX200/220's, I know there is a device called an AC regulator that keeps the bulbs from blowing. My 1987 KDX200 does not have an AC regulator device, but I never had any trouble blowing bulbs. The bulbs in a 1983 - 1988 KDX200 are 6 volts, not 12 volts, like in the 1989 and newer KDX200/220's. Does anyone think this is why it does not blow bulbs? Does anyone know if any other bike does not have an "AC regulator device" plugged inline with the other lighting components?

(I am a dumbass alert)
I e-mailed the company asking if the lighting coil was 6 volts or 12 volts. I got a quick reply stating, "there is no 6 or 12 volt coil--coils put out AC and unloaded the voltage can become very high 100 volts or so... the control of the voltage is done with an AC regulator which keeps the
voltage from becoming too high and blowing bulbs".

As such, would it make sense that I could use my stock lighting coil and swap out the 6 volt bulbs for 12 volt bulbs? He said that if I had their lighting coil, I could do that, in combination with an AC regulator. I have a spare AC regulator from a 1990 KDX200. If I were to swap to 12 volt bulbs, does anyone think I could just use it to keep from blowing the bulbs?

As you all can tell, I am not too keen on the electrical end of things. It has always fallen under my "if it ain't broke, don't fix it category".

Thanks!
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Post by KDXGarage »

If anyone has any ideas, I would appreciate it.

Thanks.
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Post by m0rie »

The 89 KDX's didn't come with a voltage regulator. They were added starting in 90. I don't see why you couldn't plug in the voltage regulator and use a 12v bulb. My 89 didn't have one but I added one when I replaced the lighting coil and added a front light back on. Without the voltage regulator I was getting around 18-20v at full throttle. The voltage regulator caps that at 12v.

-Maurice
1989 KDX 200
2007 TTR-50E
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RBD
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Post by RBD »

Jason,

It has a lot to do with the wattage output of the stator coil and the amount of wattage the load is (your lighting system). With a balanced system there would be no need for a regulator and this is how the older bikes were set up. The big draw back to that type of system was if only one of the lights would burn out all of the rest would blow like flash bulbs. Also with the older systems with no reg the bulbs were week in lighting at low RPM.

This is why newer bikes came out with higher wattage stators and use a regulator. The out put is strong enough to light the bulbs properly at low RPM and yet not blow the bulbs at higher RPM's.

When using a regulator make sure you have EVERYTHING grounded to the same common ground as the stator and regulator including all bulbs.

Ron
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Post by canyncarvr »

Piece of cake! It's an only two wire device...juice in, gnd out. (gnd for ground?)

A bit of thinking into the wiring...on the 'H' model bikes the output of the coil BEFORE the switch is unregulated because the VR is AFTER the switch.

Example: You want to wire something hot all the time on an 'H' bike. You think, I'll just tap into power before the light switch so I won't have to have the lights on to run my 'hot' device.

Oops. You just blew something up! You wired into an AC source that can get pretty dang hot!! (hi voltage).

If you're going to use a light switch (as opposed to having them on all the time) make sure the regulator comes AFTER the switch.

Yeah...it could come BEFORE the switch, too...but then the VR is 'on' all the time, lights on or not. No point to that if lights is all you're running.

Another thing to think about. On the 'H' model, the VR is under the seat. The wire after the light switch goes back to the VR through at least a couple of connectors. If you happen to have your lights grounded up front and one of those connectors to the VR comes loose/doesn't work..you now have HOT unregulated AC to your headlights. P-O-W! in short order.

The point of that is only to be aware of where the VR is when you're working on your bike. Something like, 'I'm not working on the wiring, so I don't have to hook this harness back up. I'll give it a kick and see if <whatever else> is working.'

More P-O-W! comin' right up!

Mount the VR someplace that will sink some heat. I've never checked mine to see how hot it gets, but all those fins and it being mounted to a piece of frame is probably for some reason. Maybe even a GOOD reason!!

Cheers!

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Post by KDXGarage »

m0rie, thanks for the clarification. I remember reading that now.

RBD, thanks for the info.

canyncarvr, thank you for the info, as well. Whenever it comes time to need lights again, I will be using the OEM light switch, and I will check out my '94 KDX200's wiring and try to copy that, as far as wire routing and such. I'll try to remember to make sure I have the regulator AFTER the light switch.

Thanks to all of you for the help. I appreciate it.
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