Hey all
Just put a new FMF fatty and silencer on me E2 KDX and got instant massive reaults the bike is ideling perfect now and smokes less.. and of course a massive power difference like a new bike. just wondering is the any point re jetting my carb to suit if it is running this good? will it hurt anything if i dont ive always beleived if it aint broke dont fix it !
New pipe and silencer
- cfspawn
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You can ride it and listen/feel, and the sound and feel can tell you somewhat if you are rich or lean (bogging). Plug checks and pipe wet ring will be the definitive signs of proper jetting though. But for kicks, you can get new plugs and do a full throttle chop and see how close you are on the main jet. There are other techniques for feeling the needle's characteristics but you really need to know what perfect is to feel and hear these as you would base this on knowing perfect. The point is unless you are extremely intimate with your machine and know what it is supposed to be like in sound and feel when jetted perfect, as mine is, and then you may never know that the jetting is off. How do you know you are not lean? That would be the same as "almost broke" or "could seize real soon". Do yourself a favor and become a jet wise expert on your own bike. It doesn't take but a couple of needles and mains, possibly a pilot. Run it, make changes if needed. Then there is the slide cut...
***unpaid plug***
Send the carb and head to RB and when you put it on you will be extremely close to perfect and the SSS will only be a tweak away.
***unpaid plug***
Send the carb and head to RB and when you put it on you will be extremely close to perfect and the SSS will only be a tweak away.
'04 220 w/'01 KX250 USD forks, '02 RM125 Showa shock, Rekluse EXP 3.0, LHRB & all RB'd
- cfspawn
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- bradf
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The recommended jetting from FMF is like a neighborhood jetting guide. It'll get you in the hood but you in fact want to find a certain homey's house, in which case you either say to yourself your homey will one day find you or you can do a tad more tweaking and find yourself in the crib. OK, this ghetto crap has got to stop right now. FMF assumes you will leave the carb pretty much stock, with the crappy 1173 needle and rich all over jetting.
The only true jetting guide is your bike, barometric pressure, air temp, air density, reeds, air filter/box, head, porting, pipe, there are more...
Even the way you ride or where you ride and the varying riding conditions can determine certain jetting changes.
If you are asking "am I close"? That is relative to what? Not fouling? Not near a lean seizing condition? Bike idles great...but you don't ride at idle. Are the transitions between circuits OK? How is the 1/4 throttle? 1/2 throttle etc?
Judge it by the bike itself. Don't be afraid to make logical changes.
The only true jetting guide is your bike, barometric pressure, air temp, air density, reeds, air filter/box, head, porting, pipe, there are more...
Even the way you ride or where you ride and the varying riding conditions can determine certain jetting changes.
If you are asking "am I close"? That is relative to what? Not fouling? Not near a lean seizing condition? Bike idles great...but you don't ride at idle. Are the transitions between circuits OK? How is the 1/4 throttle? 1/2 throttle etc?
Judge it by the bike itself. Don't be afraid to make logical changes.
'04 220 w/'01 KX250 USD forks, '02 RM125 Showa shock, Rekluse EXP 3.0, LHRB & all RB'd
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- cfspawn
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Remember, they're talking about the 'E' series of the KDX not the '95 and newer 'H' series KDX. The Fatty (for the 'E' series) is probably similar to the Gnarly Rev pipe for the 'H' series. FMF used to make a Fatty pipe for the 'H' series when the 'H' series first came out (I have one). It is exactly the same as the Gnarly Rev pipe that they make today. It even has a -30 on one of the mounting tabs. The only difference is that the Fatty uses slightly thinner metal than the Gnarly series pipe.
'95 200H