Rattle at speed under load (not KIPS?)

[emmett]

I’m glad to hear it was a simple fix.

Organic pads will perform well and generally they are the cheapest. They’re also easier on your rotors than ceramic or sintered pads. The pads below would work fine and for the money order 2 sets so you’ll have spares. If you like to spend more the EBC Kevlar pads are organic (no asbestos) and work pretty much like less expensive organic pads.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154010498028

Don’t expect pads to solve your brake problems. The calipers need to be cleaned and the pins need to be lubed. You probably also need fresh fluid and a proper bleeding. The brakes on your KDX should be very powerful and easy to modulate. If they aren’t they need some maintenance.

I appreciate it. Yes I'm planning on doing a full flush/bleed when I get my rear hydraulic switch for my brake light. I plan to clean/inspect the calipers to see if theyre sticking at all (and rebuild if necessary) The brakes just have no bite and are glazed up it seems.

Thanks for the link, theyll be here june 7

[emmett]

Hey emmett,

First of all, welcome! I'm happy to see a 19 year old kid posting on here looking for help, rather than sitting on the couch playing games... I've enjoyed watching this thread over the last few days, but haven't had any valuable input.

I will say this however...KDXGarage is one of the most valuable resources out here for these machines. He's definitely one to keep on your side...

As for the plug, the 8 is a hotter plug than the 9. I think what KDXGarage is saying is that the bike will actually perform better with an 8 than a 9. Sometimes, the manual will recommend the "safest" route (as in "I would rather have a fouled plug than a hole in the piston) rather than the more practical route for the average rider. You should be fine with the 8 and the engine will run better.

I also agree, just spend 3 bucks at the local parts store and get a BR8ES or at least a new 9 instead of running a "who knows when this thing was changed last" plug.

As for pads, just get whatever pads are cheapest. I usually buy the cheap Tusk brand. They seem to work just fine compared to others. I'll have to defer to others on the rotors...

As for tightening/changing the spark plug, I keep one of these on me at all times.

Hey Claybo! I appreciate the info on plugs, Ill have to test out a BR8ES. I have a new BR9EIX in there now which it seems to like, but ill get an 8 next time im at autozone.

I just ordered those pads that Goofaroo recommended, and I think ill end up ordering the Tusk discs off of rocky mountain. They seem to have good reviews and are around $50 a piece.

I also have one of those plug wrenches on order. I had ordered a ratcheting one and received it only to find out it didnt fit. That tusk one should be here any day now!

I do hate getting into it with people online, but just did not feel like KDXgarage was being fair. I get his point, but all I'm doing is trying to learn more about this bike.

So, if youre reading this kdxgarage, I apologize. And yes, I should have gone after the plug earlier on. I didn't even think it being that loose was a possibility.

Live and learn.

[emmett]

Also...Get a manual for sure. Greatest piece of advice given. It doesn't matter much which one, as long as you have one. I prefer printed because let's face it...Nobody likes using a mouse and keyboard with greasy fingers, but even a digital version is fine.

Ive been poking around in the digital one, but keeping my eye on ebay. I much prefer the printed version over the confusing online one.

Ive got the owners manual which is nice for some simple stuff, but doesnt give me all of what im after. Seems like the service manuals are $50-100 used from what ive seen

[Goofaroo]

The rotors might be salvageable. Any pics? How bad do they look?

How much street riding do you have in mind? Are you also planning to ride off road?

[claybo]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/203479954903?h ... SwtBFgtr-5

$38 bucks seems reasonable for a manual for a 27 year old bike. It only takes one busted bolt to make you wish you would've bought the manual with the torque specs.

[SS109]

Ok, guess I'll throw my input in here. It was learned long ago the the 9 series plug was too cold on the '89-'94 E-series bikes. I ran a standard BR8ES in mine for years. I changed out the plug once a year because I felt I should, even though it didn't need it, because I was putting about 200 hours a year on it.

I wouldn't run Tusk pads but that's just me. Had a set lose it's bond while doing a hot lap and almost had a body full of cholla (look it up) because of it. Plus, they destroyed my rear rotor and all RMATV said they would do is replace the pads . I run cheap organics I buy through Ebay that go by the brand name Volar and they have been great. However, be aware that with organics that if you ride a lot of mud/sand conditions they will wear out a lot faster than any sintered pads. Side bonus of organics is that they are way easier on your rotors so they last longer. Oh, yeah, the rotors I ran were the Tusk Typhoon rotors front and rear. Really like the rotors. Still running a front Tusk rotor on my '98 KDX.

[KDXGarage]

Damn, pickin on kids for being young, using their resources, and learning. Nice.

You're welcome.

Anyways, if you want to help me out while you're here. Whats the benefit of a #8 plug over a #9? I see you imply the #8 runs cooler, but wouldn't that cause more carbon buildup?

Send me off to go find the info somewhere else if you want to, but I know you've got it, and I'd genuinely appreciate your help.

Don't try to run off. You have a lot to learn by sticking around.

Actually, hotter, sorry for the error.

A plug is supposed to be a lovely shade of chocolate cocoa colored. If you ran a "6", it may be white as a ghost and possibly damage the engine. If you ran a "10", then it would be super black. A "too cold" plug will not burn off enough carbon and such. It is my experience that a "9" just won't work well unless one is running under the high strain and heat of a sand dune. Normal riding showed me that an "8" was the proper plug.

Keep a spark plug wrench and plugs (yes, plugs) handy when riding until you get it all mechanically sound and the jetting set up well.

If you were not aware, a loose spark plug will not allow proper compression, since there is a leak. The oily goop on the side of the plug is what got past the too loose gasket.

Chunk it and buy some new ones at O'reilly Auto Parts, etc. , depending on what auto stores you have in your area. Buying plugs at an auto parts store is usually cheaper than the local motorcycle dealership. If they are just a little more, then support the motorcycle shop, please. Sometimes they do jack the price up on plugs.

[emmett]

The rotors might be salvageable. Any pics? How bad do they look?

How much street riding do you have in mind? Are you also planning to ride off road?

Not much street riding. Mostly between trails, but occasionally around town or over 10min to work. Definitely going to leave the knobbies on if I can get away without DOT tires here.

front rotor may be salvageable but rears trashed. tried to straighten it but just too far gone to get it true.

[emmett]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/203479954903?h ... SwtBFgtr-5

$38 bucks seems reasonable for a manual for a 27 year old bike. It only takes one busted bolt to make you wish you would've bought the manual with the torque specs.

Ordered!

[emmett]

Ok, guess I'll throw my input in here. It was learned long ago the the 9 series plug was too cold on the '89-'94 E-series bikes. I ran a standard BR8ES in mine for years. I changed out the plug once a year because I felt I should, even though it didn't need it, because I was putting about 200 hours a year on it.

I wouldn't run Tusk pads but that's just me. Had a set lose it's bond while doing a hot lap and almost had a body full of cholla (look it up) because of it. Plus, they destroyed my rear rotor and all RMATV said they would do is replace the pads . I run cheap organics I buy through Ebay that go by the brand name Volar and they have been great. However, be aware that with organics that if you ride a lot of mud/sand conditions they will wear out a lot faster than any sintered pads. Side bonus of organics is that they are way easier on your rotors so they last longer. Oh, yeah, the rotors I ran were the Tusk Typhoon rotors front and rear. Really like the rotors. Still running a front Tusk rotor on my '98 KDX.

What made you know the 9 plug was too cold? too much carbon buildup? Wouldnt load up as quickly? I will have to get one. would i have to mess with my jetting/mixture so I'm not running to lean with the hotter plug? I dont think im nearly too lean right now, but i also dont want a hole in my cylinder!

"foreverun moto" is the cheap ebay organic pads I got after Goofaroo recommended them. Im excited to try them, but ive got rotor work to figure out before I can. I think ill order the tusk rear rotor at least, and see what I can do with the front to clean it up. I like brakes with good bite, but willing to compromise a little on the front brake as long as ive got decent modulation.

weve got some a muddy spring but mostly loamy, roots and rocks. Pretty easy to avoid the muck and sand here in NH.

[emmett]

Damn, pickin on kids for being young, using their resources, and learning. Nice.

You're welcome.

Anyways, if you want to help me out while you're here. Whats the benefit of a #8 plug over a #9? I see you imply the #8 runs cooler, but wouldn't that cause more carbon buildup?

Send me off to go find the info somewhere else if you want to, but I know you've got it, and I'd genuinely appreciate your help.

Don't try to run off. You have a lot to learn by sticking around.

Actually, hotter, sorry for the error.

A plug is supposed to be a lovely shade of chocolate cocoa colored. If you ran a "6", it may be white as a ghost and possibly damage the engine. If you ran a "10", then it would be super black. A "too cold" plug will not burn off enough carbon and such. It is my experience that a "9" just won't work well unless one is running under the high strain and heat of a sand dune. Normal riding showed me that an "8" was the proper plug.

Keep a spark plug wrench and plugs (yes, plugs) handy when riding until you get it all mechanically sound and the jetting set up well.

If you were not aware, a loose spark plug will not allow proper compression, since there is a leak. The oily goop on the side of the plug is what got past the too loose gasket.

Chunk it and buy some new ones at O'reilly Auto Parts, etc. , depending on what auto stores you have in your area. Buying plugs at an auto parts store is usually cheaper than the local motorcycle dealership. If they are just a little more, then support the motorcycle shop, please. Sometimes they do jack the price up on plugs.

Thanks for the clarification on the plugs, that makes a lot more sense for my riding. Generally slower single track and technical stuff around here. I do support my local dealer whenever I can, but for things like plugs, brake fluid, etc. their prices are a little silly. Makes me not want to drive the 10 extra minutes to spend more money. Ill see what theyve got for brake rotors and order through them now that you say that though. Given if they've got what i'm after.

Thanks for the help KDXGarage, I will be testing the plugs and paying closer attention for the chocolate cocoa colored plug now.

[Goofaroo]

A lot of factors could contribute to your carbon buildup and oily deposits. The plug being loose could have made a mess in a hurry. If your air filter is dirty that could also dirty things up in a hurry. The jetting could have also been fattened up by the previous owner. It also appears to have an aftermarket pipe. What pipe is it? Is your airbox lid and snorkel still in place? What gas/oil mixture are you running? What is the altitude where you live?

To get the best performance and longevity out of your motor might require a bit of research to get down to the ground truth about what you have.

[pumpguy]

I’m glad to hear it was a simple fix.

Organic pads will perform well and generally they are the cheapest. They’re also easier on your rotors than ceramic or sintered pads. The pads below would work fine and for the money order 2 sets so you’ll have spares. If you like to spend more the EBC Kevlar pads are organic (no asbestos) and work pretty much like less expensive organic pads.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154010498028

Don’t expect pads to solve your brake problems. The calipers need to be cleaned and the pins need to be lubed. You probably also need fresh fluid and a proper bleeding. The brakes on your KDX should be very powerful and easy to modulate. If they aren’t they need some maintenance.

I appreciate it. Yes I'm planning on doing a full flush/bleed when I get my rear hydraulic switch for my brake light. I plan to clean/inspect the calipers to see if theyre sticking at all (and rebuild if necessary) The brakes just have no bite and are glazed up it seems.

Thanks for the link, theyll be here june 7

Off topic here, but re your choice of hydraulic rear brake light switch, may I recommend a mechanical type? That mysterious half washer welded to your frame on the right side is there for holding a mechanical rear brake light switch. Much easier to rig up than the hydraulic type. Don't have to tap into the hydraulic circuit. This is from experience, been there & done that.

[Goofaroo]

Agreed. A mechanical switch is the way to go.

[emmett]

A lot of factors could contribute to your carbon buildup and oily deposits. The plug being loose could have made a mess in a hurry. If your air filter is dirty that could also dirty things up in a hurry. The jetting could have also been fattened up by the previous owner. It also appears to have an aftermarket pipe. What pipe is it? Is your airbox lid and snorkel still in place? What gas/oil mixture are you running? What is the altitude where you live?

To get the best performance and longevity out of your motor might require a bit of research to get down to the ground truth about what you have.

Its an FMF gnarly i believe. I think it only says fmf on it though so im not 100% sure. Airbox is 100% intact. Running between 32:1 and 40:1. Im running at sea level. I plan to open up the carb to see whats in there for jets. Im guessing stock but I'd like to know for sure.

[emmett]

Agreed. A mechanical switch is the way to go.

I’m glad to hear it was a simple fix.

Organic pads will perform well and generally they are the cheapest. They’re also easier on your rotors than ceramic or sintered pads. The pads below would work fine and for the money order 2 sets so you’ll have spares. If you like to spend more the EBC Kevlar pads are organic (no asbestos) and work pretty much like less expensive organic pads.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154010498028

Don’t expect pads to solve your brake problems. The calipers need to be cleaned and the pins need to be lubed. You probably also need fresh fluid and a proper bleeding. The brakes on your KDX should be very powerful and easy to modulate. If they aren’t they need some maintenance.

I appreciate it. Yes I'm planning on doing a full flush/bleed when I get my rear hydraulic switch for my brake light. I plan to clean/inspect the calipers to see if theyre sticking at all (and rebuild if necessary) The brakes just have no bite and are glazed up it seems.

Thanks for the link, theyll be here june 7

Off topic here, but re your choice of hydraulic rear brake light switch, may I recommend a mechanical type? That mysterious half washer welded to your frame on the right side is there for holding a mechanical rear brake light switch. Much easier to rig up than the hydraulic type. Don't have to tap into the hydraulic circuit. This is from experience, been there & done that.

I hadnt noticed the washer/hook. I will take a look at that!

[KDXGarage]

Use heat to soften the red Loctite on the rotor bolts before disassembly.

My "9" plugs were always too dark, switching to 8 cured it.

[emmett]

Use heat to soften the red Loctite on the rotor bolts before disassembly.

My "9" plugs were always too dark, switching to 8 cured it.

Will do. Any seals in there that dont do well with heat or are they all designed for high heat...?

Ill avoid them either way, but just curious if they will fry easily.

Thanks!

[KDXGarage]

rotor bolts

Don't use a bowl of lava, just heat them a little with a little hand torch to soften it up.

[emmett]

rotor bolts

Don't use a bowl of lava, just heat them a little with a little hand torch to soften it up.

okay will do, thanks.