Which H-Series clutch springs to order?

['03KDX200]

Hello again. Ok I'm trying to get my clutch all dialed-in the way I want. I'm gaining on it. I replaced my worn-out and grabby clutch pack with a new set of metal plates and friction plates from Tusk. I went for a ride and I LOVE the improvement. I have a new Motion Pro clutch perch and lever, and new Motion Pro clutch cable. I'm very happy with those items too; very high quality and OEM fitment/length.

My problem is that the clutch pull is still a lot harder than I think it could be. And yes, I have the clutch puller arm at the correct angle to the cable, as detailed in the Kawasaki repair manual. I adjusted the shims on the clutch pusher pin, so that the angle is perfect.

I want to order the OEM clutch springs from the '95 to '96 KDX 200, because I read that they are 10% less stiff than the later years. They are really cheap actually, and I would have already ordered them, but the problem is there are three different serial numbers in the parts fiche!

Take a look here: https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemp ... 03b/clutch

As you can see, "spring" is listed three times. There is 92144A, 92144B, and 92144C. Does anyone know which of these three numbers is the one for the original, 10% lighter clutch springs?

[KDXGarage]

The reference number on that diagram is 92144 / C. Look over in the parts number section. There is no 92144, so it must be 92144C, which shows 92144-1559 as the part number.

92144A and 92144B are other springs shown on the diagram.

[SS109]

There is only one type of clutch spring available. If the '95-'96 clutch springs were actually lighter, and then were changed on later models, Kawasaki will have superseded the earlier part number for the latter version.

The only ways to lighten the pull that I know of is to either length the clutch arm or install a hydraulic clutch conversion.

[KDXGarage]

Didn't someone have a thread on the KX125 arm recently?

Both springs are available. Each fits a few other bikes as well. If Kawasaki thought the bike needed stiffer springs, they may have been right.

[bufftester]

And stay away from after market clutch springs. Lots of folks (me included) have found that the EBC springs suck. If yours are out of spec, best to use OEM. The 95-96 did have a different part number for the clutch springs (which is also the same clutch spring for the KLR650s) than the later models and the 220. There is a reason they changed the spring in the later H series and 220s, it was to improve clutch engagement. These are the springs that keep your plates engaged, stiffer is better. The clutch pull on a KDX is not that bad and can be overcome with either a modified clutch arm or hydraulic conversion as SS109 mentioned. Grab a tennis ball and strengthen your left forearm, it will ease that pull, and improve your arm pump mitigation for about $1.25

['03KDX200]

The reference number on that diagram is 92144 / C. Look over in the parts number section. There is no 92144, so it must be 92144C, which shows 92144-1559 as the part number.

92144A and 92144B are other springs shown on the diagram.

Thanks KDXgarage that makes sense to me. I'm trying those springs (92144-1559).

['03KDX200]

There is only one type of clutch spring available. If the '95-'96 clutch springs were actually lighter, and then were changed on later models, Kawasaki will have superseded the earlier part number for the latter version.

The only ways to lighten the pull that I know of is to either length the clutch arm or install a hydraulic clutch conversion.

Nah there is a special part number in the fiche for the '95 and '96 KDX 200. 92144-1559 isn't listed as the spring part number on the later models. That must be the light springs!

['03KDX200]

And stay away from after market clutch springs. Lots of folks (me included) have found that the EBC springs suck. If yours are out of spec, best to use OEM. The 95-96 did have a different part number for the clutch springs (which is also the same clutch spring for the KLR650s) than the later models and the 220. There is a reason they changed the spring in the later H series and 220s, it was to improve clutch engagement. These are the springs that keep your plates engaged, stiffer is better. The clutch pull on a KDX is not that bad and can be overcome with either a modified clutch arm or hydraulic conversion as SS109 mentioned. Grab a tennis ball and strengthen your left forearm, it will ease that pull, and improve your arm pump mitigation for about $1.25

Unfortunately stiffer is not always better. I went and bought a 100 pound grip strength workout device and have been using it, and my grip is getting stronger all right, but at the end of the day a lighter clutch pull at the lever will let me ride longer, and have more control. If I can get the lever down to one-finger lightness, then I can keep my middle finger wrapped around the handlebar, and then you've magically got twice the grip on the handlebars for wheelies and other technical moves that takes a mighty tug at the bars. That's the point I'm going to get to eventually, but first I want to see how light I can make this mechanical clutch work before moving to a hydraulic conversion.

My KDX's clutch pull is heavier than it needs to be, the way it is right now. Other people have commented on it too, not just me. When I squeese other people's clutch levers it's not as stiff as mine, so something's not right. Hydraulic clutches aren't just automatically 75% lighter than mechanical ones. It's gotta be the clutch springs are too stiff. What other variables are there? I've replaced and properly adjusted everything else. I will probably do a longer clutch arm mod too. That sounds really interesting.

Oh and one more thing: my current clutch springs are all painted blue. Like a fat, sloppy blue stripe down the center of all of them. Is that normal for an OEM clutch spring?

[KDXGarage]

paint is normal ... might be a stiffness rating??

try the arm

How's the clutch cable and lube?

judder spring
judder ring??

new or 19 years old?

I'd go with stock 97+ springs and the KX125 arm someone showed how to do a week or so ago. A longer arm = more leverage.

[SS109]

There is only one type of clutch spring available. If the '95-'96 clutch springs were actually lighter, and then were changed on later models, Kawasaki will have superseded the earlier part number for the latter version.

The only ways to lighten the pull that I know of is to either length the clutch arm or install a hydraulic clutch conversion.

Nah there is a special part number in the fiche for the '95 and '96 KDX 200. 92144-1559 isn't listed as the spring part number on the later models. That must be the light springs!

I do see that there are two different springs which makes no sense, honestly. The clutch springs interchange between all '95 and up bikes.

Like has already mentioned, lighter springs are not always the answer. Same with using the stiffer than stock EBC springs. There is more to coil spring design than just lighter and stiffer. It can be lighter or stronger depending on where in the spring's height you are. These are all things that affect clutch feel and holding power and can be changed by the engineers to get the desired characteristics they're looking for.

That said, I've never heard that one year's set of springs was lighter than another. I would be really interested to see them tested side by side to know what the differences actually are.

[bufftester]

The problem I had with EBC springs was not the stiffness, the free length was wrong and out of spec.
There's also the Outlaw Easy-pull clutch system, never seen one or heard any one try it, but it's out there Outlaw Easy Pull

[KDXGarage]

I have been on the interwebs for a bit. EBC clutch spring length being wrong has been mentioned by several people over the years.

The 95-96 springs were not used in 97 and newer by Kawasaki's choice. I think FRP Offroad used to mention in his site about swapping the 95 and 96 up to the 97+ springs.

[KDXGarage]

I TRIED TO TELL 'EM!!

"The 1995-'96 models had weaker clutch springs, so they should be replaced with later-model springs."

https://www.dirtrider.com/features/onli ... x_200_220/

[SS109]

The problem I had with EBC springs was not the stiffness, the free length was wrong and out of spec.
There's also the Outlaw Easy-pull clutch system, never seen one or heard any one try it, but it's out there Outlaw Easy Pull

I had a set. The free length was good but the pull increased so much it was ridiculous. I ordered some factory springs and replaced the EBC's ASAP.

I tried the Easy Pull Clutch system. Found it useless. I still have it floating around the garage somewhere.

['03KDX200]

I TRIED TO TELL 'EM!!

"The 1995-'96 models had weaker clutch springs, so they should be replaced with later-model springs."

https://www.dirtrider.com/features/onli ... x_200_220/

Ha! Well that's his opinion that they should be replaced. Did he really experience clutch slippage, I wonder, before giving this recommendation? Did anyone?

I want to see just how terrible the softer clutch springs are. If the clutch slips, I'll notice. I'll report back here when I've done a proper comparison back-to-back with the old softer springs and '97+ firmer springs.

['03KDX200]

paint is normal ... might be a stiffness rating??

try the arm

How's the clutch cable and lube?

judder spring
judder ring??

new or 19 years old?

I'd go with stock 97+ springs and the KX125 arm someone showed how to do a week or so ago. A longer arm = more leverage.

I looked at the judder spring too. I removed the pusher so that there wasn't anything to push, so that the lever would only work against the judder spring. That spring pressure wasn't even enough to return the clutch lever to it's starting point on the perch. Super weak spring, so that's not the culprit.

The clutch lever, perch, and cable are all brand new Motion Pro, and the cable is lubed with a superfine graphite cable lube. Very smooth. And the clutch arm engagement angle is perfect according to spec in the service manual.

[KDXGarage]

If everything is working properly, you reassembled everything correctly and you want a lighter feel, then get the arm.

Go to a dealership and squeeze a few clutch levers to see what they feel like.

['03KDX200]

If everything is working properly, you reassembled everything correctly and you want a lighter feel, then get the arm.

Go to a dealership and squeeze a few clutch levers to see what they feel like.

I went to the dealership last week and squeezed some clutch levers. Every bike in there had a lighter clutch pull, even the Kawasaki z900 (120HP sportbike) and a Kawasaki H2 (200HP sportbike), and they had probably half the stiffness of my KDX. How do you design a motorcycle with such a stiff clutch as the KDX? How does a 38HP dirt bike with all-new clutch parts and perfectly lubed and adjusted, have twice the clutch pull effort as a 200 HP sportbike? Nobody knows.

But I will try that alternate clutch release arm eventually, that sounds like the ticket.

[bufftester]

I have owned a 96 KX250, 3 GSX-R750s, 76 TS-185, 79 MR-175, 80 KDX175, 94 KDX200, and still own a 01 KDX220 (hybrid), 95 RMX250 and a 99 KLR300. The MR had a horrendous clutch pull, but I was young. My 220 is lighter than the RMX, and they are both lighter pulls than my sons old 03 RM85 lol. I ride in the PNW, lots of wet and technical, lots of clutch work and maybe since I was raised on 2Ts I just don't get it. Sounds like your best solution would be to pursue one of the auto clutch solutions.

[SS109]

KDX clutch pull is not considered heavy in the world of cable operated clutches. Comparing it to any modern hydraulic clutch equipped bike is not a fair comparison especially when you factor in that the KDX's design is actually from the early to mid 90's. Lighter springs are not the answer as in the linked article by Jeff Fredette. You do know who Jeff is, right? I would go with the longer clutch actuator as that is a proven and reliable way to lighten the clutch pull significantly.

Now, just to make sure everything is good, is your clutch basket grooved at all? Is the clutch cable properly routed?