Anyone made their own lowering springs for the KDX 200?

['03KDX200]

Hello all. I have a 2003 KDX 200, and I'm trying to stiffen, and lower both the front and back pretty soon. Let's start with the fork springs. I actually just bought some .38kg/mm springs (from a 1996 XR400) off Craigslist. I know how to make a regular preload spacer from PVC, so that I can adjust the overall length of these new springs and even add a little preload to them to try and get to the magical .41kg/mm number that I've pulled out of my ass. But anyways while I'm in there replacing the stock fork springs, I'd like to have the option of making lowering spacers. I want to eventually lower both front and back ends by up to 2 inches. From what I've gathered researching the lowering process, is that you need to add a PVC spacer at the bottom of the fork, underneath the top-out spring on the end of the damping rod. Thing is, I can't find the info needed to make the lowering spacer.

Has someone out there done this themselves before? If so what diameter PVC pipe do I need? I guess I could just take the forks all apart and measure what I need to make, but I thought I'd just ask this forum to save myself some time.

[Goofaroo]

It’s generally a bad idea. Someone may chime in that has done it successfully but to do it right would be very involved. In the end you would lose travel and ground clearance and I don’t know how you would keep the wheels from bottoming against the fender.

Why do you want to lower it? If you’re short and just starting to ride I think you’ll find that being able to touch the ground with both feet while sitting on the bike in your garage has no relevance. You’ll find that it doesn’t matter when you’re riding.

If you’re determined the first thing to try would be shaving down the seat foam but eventually you’ll probably regret it.

[KDXGarage]

The springs are a certain stiffness. Adding preload is not going to change the stiffness of the actual spring.

A spacer is needed below the top-out spring. This spring essentially further limits just how far apart the fork spring is allowed to push the two tubes apart.

One would need to install the spacer, then install the fork springs. With the "a good bit" longer XR400R springs, you may run out of room to even put them in, much less worry about spacer length. If they do not use up all the remaining room and then some, then measure normally for preload.

Adding more preload will not make up for someone not buying the correct rate springs.

On the shock, travel limiting spacers can be bought from Race Tech and other places. Again, they keep it from fully expanding. You might be able to get away with a normal length spring. There is a fair amount of adjustment available as the threads on the shock cover a good distance.

Do remember that it is not like you are shortening the shock 2", just the rear wheel travel. I think it is around 3:1 or something like that by the time it gets to the rear wheel travel distance. Meaning 3/4" shorter shock = 9/4" of wheel travel. PLEASE!! Check that, and do not go with it. Research and read.

I would suggest that you do not shave the seat.

If you are a novice, ride it some before deciding on lowering it. You may have a "i can handle this" or "an inch would be better than what I previously thought" moment.

[pumpguy]

One common thing people do to get a lower seat height is to add longer dog bone links to the rear shock linkage, and raise the fork legs in the triple clamps.

Longer dog bones from 1/4" steel plate are quite easy to make, and just a few minutes work to change the position of the fork legs in the triple clamps. Do some searching here on this site. There's plenty thats been written about this.

All this said, as stated by others above, these changes will affect steering geometry, ground clearance, and wheel travel. Try the changes and see how they work for you. No permanent changes have been made and its real easy to go back to stock.

Let us know how this all works out for you.

[KDXGarage]

I doubt one could get 2" lower on the forks without the tire hitting or the tops of the fork tubes hitting the underside of the handlebars.

Lowering links DO alter the geometry.

[Goofaroo]

You could add bar risers and possibly raise the forks two inches but without internal mods the tire would bottom against the fender. Obviously not ideal.

A lowering link would be possible but as far as I know it will increase the amount of leverage on the shock and make the rear softer. If you’re trying to go stiffer it might be tricky to figure out a correct spring rate. Not to mention it would most likely also cause the tire to bottom against the fender.

And don’t forget that your kickstand will have to be shortened.

If you decide to move forward make sure you keep any original parts that you remove including the springs. If you ever decide to sell the bike it will have a lot more value if you convert it back to stock.

[KDXGarage]

right
right
right
and right

:-)

[svboy]

Forgive the thread drift. I looked into all these lowering methods as I am 5' 6" and was a bit in intimidated initially by the height of the KDX. I experimented with all three KOUBA lowering links and heavier rear spring to compensate. I found all were too compromised. In the end I found a cut down seat and normal geometry the best solution.

[KDXGarage]

Thanks for sharing your quite on point analysis and experience!