So much wrong with this thing, don't know where to start

[cbova]

I picked up a non running 97 220 a few weeks ago. Previous owner only had it for a few months before it "stopped running during a ride" he said the oil was milky but he had already changed it so I didn't see it. There was no coolant in the rad or tank. When I got home I took the clutch cover and flywheel cover off there are newish looking gaskets so I'm pretty sure the engine has been apart recently.

Got a few minutes to strip it down tonight and oh my, so much wrong. First thing I noticed was the bleed plug for the water neck was missing, so that's where most of the coolant went I imagine. Second thing I noticed is the carb "boot" appears to be a plumbing fitting between the reed cage and the carb. Then I pulled pipe and head off no surprise, top end is junk. I don't have the cylinder off yet. Does it look re-plateable? Trying to decide if it's worth it for me to keep going on this thing.

[sarrant]

Cylinder should be repairable/replateable.

I don't think it is a plumbing fitting on the intake boot. That's an aftermarket reed cage and boot (Boyesen Rad Valve?). The hose clamps are not original to the boot, though.

[bufftester]

Correct on the Boyeson Rad valve. Also, on the plus side that's a Wiseco piston, so you don't have to worry about the OEM grenade piston lol. Cylinder certainly looks replateable from these photos. The bleed screw is an easy replacement. If the oil was milky then it's going to need a new water pump mechanical seal, and likely a new oil seal as well. The case saver around the countershaft sprocket is missing and should be replaced. Photos hard to tell, but looks like it may have an aftermarket pipe? Would guess it quit running due to fouling judging by the amount of oily deposits in the transfer and exhaust ports. Likely it needs new seals and bearings in the wheels, swingarm, rear suspension parts. I'd say with all that you're looking at less than 400$ assuming there's nothing majorly wrong with the bottom end.

[cbova]

Thanks. The reason I thought the carb. boot isn't right is that it has the carb so far back that the throttle cable is wedged on the cross bar of the frame, you can sort of see it in the pics. I plan to split the cases and inspect and/or replace all bearings and seals. It does have a Pro Circuit pipe on it, doesn't fit very well not sure if it's correct for the bike. So the original reed cage had a rubber boot as part of it? Is it acceptable to run the Boyseen reed cage?

Who is everyone using for re-plate? The local engine shop sends them out to be re plated, not sure where though ball park estimate was $220 if it's just a plate, $270 if it's repair and re-plate. Seems to be about the going rate. Is it the Wiseco Pro-Lite pistons that everyone likes?

[KDXGarage]

PowerSeal USA or Millenium

Look up the Boyesen Rad Valve

These guys' previous posts are spot on.

[G22inSC]

Just sent my son's YZ125 to PowerSeal USA for their standard plate job. Sent the cylinder with a standard "B" piston and everything came back flawless. I would have no reservations at all using them again.

[TwistedRoot]

If your sending that head out for a replate, do it before they get slammed with winter work.

+1 on Powerseal!!