KDXRIDER.NET

I have a 2001 KDX200 that is new to me. Last Sunday I took it for the first time to the woods and I noticed that the clutch doesn't fully disengage when I press the clutch lever. (The rear will is locked although the clutch lever is fully pressed in when in gear)
Readjusting the cable didn't help and i didn't have the time yet to drain the oil and take off the clutch cover.

Before I do, any suggestions?

That's typical.

see if your clutch basket is notched. If it is, you can file it smooth.

Does yours roll smooth Mike? (in the form of a question! )

The two above notes are not related.

Your basket may be notched precluding free movement of the disks when you pull the clutch lever.

Even if it's not notched you will still have a 'locked' rear wheel when you pull the lever and the bike is in gear.

There are some things that can make that situation worse than it needs to be.

There are spacer(s) in the clutch 'linkage' (under the TO bearing) that position the actuator rod (the one going into the clutch cover). There are diagrams in the service manual that show what movement you need..suffice to say here (ask if it doesn't make sense) that the actuator rod needs to move through a 90º position relative to the pull point to get maximum movement of the clutch assembly. The adjustment comes from adding/removing shims for best angle.

A failed oil seal will allow some slop in the rod, unnecessary movement in an unproductive direction. Not a lot..but some.

Other normal maintenance issues apply...properly lubricated, not worn, adjusted clutch is necessary.

Basically...what Inda said. 'Typical'

Something for you to consider...an auto-clutch is NOT squeezing anytime the bike is sitting...only when the engine spins the basket does it 'engage' the engine/trans. So...walk up to your bike after a week of sitting in the garage and IT will push easy as pie.

How easy IS pie, anyway?


One more thing. There are levers made (MSR is one) that have an additional 'pull' to them. They have a larger levered arc, move more cable, more rod, thus more clutch.

OK?

So if I understood you correctly, waiting a week (It's been 4 days already)
and getting an MSR clutch lever would be the initial step?

thought I answered Vince a while ago.. musta messed up again. Anyway Mine used to when it was new, but now it acts like everybody elses.

My 05' 220 has been getting better with each ride. Any misshifts from 1st to 2nd are my fault (big feet) and I think that the stock clutch is just not as nice as my Honda's. Some day soon I will install a Hinson or Barnett and things should be sweet. No Auto-clutch for me. I learned how to ride on a trail 50 and it was cool but that was a long time ago

BTW. Put a magnetic drain plug in and change the oil frequently. I start off by flushing a small amount of fresh oil through the bike with the drain plug out, then I put it back in and finish off the whole quart (over the sight glass)
I run Spectro 4 10w-40. Seems okay. I think some one said previously to make sure your clutch is adjusted with a few mm of freeplay at the lever. It is incorrect to think that if you had it tightened up with no play that you would be getting the most out of the clutch engagement. It will cause excess heat to build up rather quickly and make things worse. Pardon me Inda et all if this lacks the correct terms.

"How easy IS pie, anyway Carvr????
KD-My 220 does that gear PMS Crap, except from 2nd to 3rd. When I had the engine apart, I loosened the clutch springs and re-torqued, made sure I cleaned the oil area of any possible crap from break-in and new oil.

Eram-I had measured the lever as Carvr explained and it was within 90 degrees. All there is to correcting the lever is either adding or removing a washer/shim. I have not had a problem yet, but I have noticed after 5-6hrs of riding, the clutch gets Bitchy and an oil change will make her happy again. Man, these bikes are like women, after ya ride one ya feel better

Guys,
I have to do something about this. I can’t go steep down hills without stalling the bike. I can’t modulate the clutch while using the brakes.
If I ride straights and uphill only, the problem doesn’t bother me that much.

Start with an oil change.

Is your bike idling properly? It's dying on downhills because it doesn't idle, or the engine braking even through the clutch is doing it?

Everything else being fine, the KDX is pretty easy to kill on downhills with just a touch of brake. A fly wheel weight will fix that.

If your bike has not been properly jetted it won't run much of a downhill without loading up the plug. That'll kill it. Specifically different than a 'stall'..but it's dead just the same.

Does your bike ever 4-stroke off a long downhill?

There are things other than the clutch that will get you the exact same symptom you have. The differences are easy to feel/tell when you're on it. Less easy to 'splain with a keyboard, writing to you-don't-know-whom.